I have the epic12 in hand, just need to find the time to get some wood cut. Did you add any bracing? Do you think it would benefit from any?
I didn't add any on the ones I built, as I hadn't seen anyone doing it, nor saying they wish they had. They seemed solid, right up till the day they spent 3 hours marinating in my basement leak and got ruined. 😡
Bummer.. you could use "Git Rot" to repair them if they are not too far gone.
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That stuff is pretty cool, I'll have to get some of it for another pair of subs I've got where the bottom has been semi-rotten for a long time, but they're still together.
As far as the TH, the rear board started to curve when it got wet, so it started to pull apart. I ended up dismantling them and building smaller subs (the OD-ML-TL) with the drivers so I'd have something small enough to have upstairs. Once all the basement woes are addressed I'm definitely making another pair of THs though..maybe even something bigger 😵.
Thinking of buying one of these... Think it was made by someone on here actually.
Are these OK with no bracing?
The one I am thinking about has no bracing
Are these OK with no bracing?
The one I am thinking about has no bracing
I would have braced don the middle but if your using this no where near its rated Xmax then you will probably be fine the way it is.
I dont like gaps bigger than 8" with out a brace. But thats just me.
I dont like gaps bigger than 8" with out a brace. But thats just me.
Thank you all for the plans. I have recently built one and am very satisfied thus far. WAF was very low but I have tucked it behind the TV and TV stand and will be painting it the same color as the walls in the room as it has been determined that the sound improvements are worth it!
I built it from the premium 3/4" ply at lowes. Running it with a bridged behringer inuke 1000 (replaced the fan) and needed to use an ART cleanbox pro between my Yamaha reciever and the amp to get rid of the hum and boost the signal.
Next step is upgrading my main speakers, considering MTM or a fostex fullrange type setup.
I built it from the premium 3/4" ply at lowes. Running it with a bridged behringer inuke 1000 (replaced the fan) and needed to use an ART cleanbox pro between my Yamaha reciever and the amp to get rid of the hum and boost the signal.
Next step is upgrading my main speakers, considering MTM or a fostex fullrange type setup.
I'm actually selling a pair of these tapped horns if someone wants something ready to go:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subw...tive-tapped-horn-project-234.html#post1610725
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subw...tive-tapped-horn-project-234.html#post1610725
I'm interested in building the shortened single fold horn, BUT after measuring my floor to ceiling height, the cabinet is 1 inch too tall 🙁
Would it be detrimental to the response if the cabinet was made 1 1/2 shorter in height with all other dimensions remaining the same?
Would it be detrimental to the response if the cabinet was made 1 1/2 shorter in height with all other dimensions remaining the same?
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1/2" less than ceiling height does not sound short enough to tip into place without hitting the ceiling, make sure you have calculated the diagonal length of the shortened cabinet.
The interior vertical horn parts should be shortened by the same length as the exterior walls. The shorter path length will make the LF cut off slightly higher.
Ugh, brain fart!
92 1/2 inch (checked my measures 5 times this time 🙂 ) would be the max height of enclosure with cabinet going in sideways, so a 7 inch reduction in path length.
I had figured on needing to shorten the interior baffle - am not 'that' daft 😀😀😀
2 heating radiators and a doorway - corners are dead space (unless one has corner speakers already) 😉