I don't think so. My KSA-80B sounded very similar but with alot more slam capability and it had alot higher voltage rails. I think its really the high current supply and then the fact that its class A and then a good simple circuit design. KSA-80 is not as simple but is dual differential and an even higher current supply. I would reccomend that all of you run these amps dual mono to get the most out of them.
As for the WIKI, I would rather hold it at the DIY KSA-50 web page which is on development I am going in for surgery today but I expect that by the weekenf I will resume work on the site and then get quotes on Al's board design. I would prefer to just make them available for purchase through the web page. Al's design is excellent and should just always just be available for purchase, not just through a group buy WIKI. Here is a link to the page....
http://www.diyamps.com/ksa/
Thanks to Brian GT for hosting this site and getting it roughed in for us. Brian has also offered to design a power supply pcb for this project.
Please post or send me any suggestions for additions to the page........ use the contact button on the top left side of the page to contact me with suggestions. This page is reserved ONLY for DIY KSA ampliiers plus the variations of them that some are working on. There will also be a gallery page for you to have pictures of your completed, or operating amps posted.
Thanks!
Mark
Quick question:
As I'm now using/recommending TO247 packaged outputs is there a demand for a PCB for them? It shouldn't take long to knock up if required.
edit: for testing I was using Brian's Mini A pcb, as it was slightly less bulky than my big one, so with the bigger caps it should be fine without a redesign.
As I'm now using/recommending TO247 packaged outputs is there a demand for a PCB for them? It shouldn't take long to knock up if required.
edit: for testing I was using Brian's Mini A pcb, as it was slightly less bulky than my big one, so with the bigger caps it should be fine without a redesign.
Thanks Dennis, Its just hernia surgery and is done as outpatient. This way I can sit at home and groan and they don't have to listen. I will be gradually back up and around by Friday(so they say).
Brian offered to design the board for us. Depending on what one wants to do with the supply it could make it a very tidy unit. I just hard wired both of mine but Brian's offer leaves open other possibilities to be incorporated into the supply(s). CRC, CLC,etc., or just a straight sypply as I ahve built for each channel of my 50.
One thing it should have is very heavy traces.
Mark
Brian offered to design the board for us. Depending on what one wants to do with the supply it could make it a very tidy unit. I just hard wired both of mine but Brian's offer leaves open other possibilities to be incorporated into the supply(s). CRC, CLC,etc., or just a straight sypply as I ahve built for each channel of my 50.
One thing it should have is very heavy traces.
Mark
Hi,
thanks for those quick replies.
I'm planning to stay lowish power ClassA for mid and treble only, AB for bass & sub-bass.
50 or so watts is just fine i.e. keeping the low rails. Class A demands good current ability.
Q. What effect substituting MJ21193/4 for the outputs? To3 with excellent current and thermal ability but about 8 times slower!
thanks for those quick replies.
I'm planning to stay lowish power ClassA for mid and treble only, AB for bass & sub-bass.
50 or so watts is just fine i.e. keeping the low rails. Class A demands good current ability.
Q. What effect substituting MJ21193/4 for the outputs? To3 with excellent current and thermal ability but about 8 times slower!
Thats hard to say without doing an actual listening test of the two devices in the same amp. I would suspect higher distortion to some extent as 8 times slower is alot slower. I used MJL21193/94 in my amp, they can be had fairly inexpensively and the amp sounds good and is very stable with them.
Mark
Mark
The 27V zener diodes, must they be 3W or is that overdesign? I ask because I ordered the 1W variety. Can I use them, or should I order the 3W version?
Thanks,
SteveA
Thanks,
SteveA
I was browsing this Krell link http://www.diyamps.com/ksa/ ..... some of the links brings me to Pass Labs web site! I thought that was funny. Anyway, any chance of a GP that includes kits? Just like miniAleph GP?
Yea, they should be silkscreened and it looks great to me. Don't forget the DIY logo on there and not for profit, etc!! I'm willing to do the board buy but not an entire kit. The parts are not that hard to gather up.
Mark
Mark
Al, make all terminals screwed, not only ones screwed while others soldered 😉 . Give at driver board bypass caps too, it is critical place for stability.
I'm getting 2 800va toroids in the next 2 weeks 😉 28-0-28 😉
We'll get two channels up and running then ! Stereo! Complete monoblock 🙂 See how they go........
As a side note, running the drivers on the heatsink, wow...... never ever a heat problem!!!
Aaron
We'll get two channels up and running then ! Stereo! Complete monoblock 🙂 See how they go........
As a side note, running the drivers on the heatsink, wow...... never ever a heat problem!!!
Aaron
pinkmouse said:
I never have values printed in the silkscreen. It's easier to just have the component names, and then make a BOM.
If you have the values on the board, it's going to be confusing when the BOM changes.
\Jens
Al, driver board look nice now 😉 . Still remake input board for screwed terminals and all will be OK. 😎