Re: hmmm...
haha, thank you to everyone who did 😎
i like brandy. i just don't drink it very often. probably won't be if we're havign keg parties
outstanding bass and dynamics is exactly what i wanted! when i'm done with my whole setup i wanted it to be characterised by, among other things, tons of punch and slam in the bass. my friends have never heard good bass...they think the weak little boomy sounding ported sub on their crappy Dell computer speakers is the be-all and end-all of bass. or that having a pile of cheap subs in a ricemobile hatchback is actually great sound.
initially i wanted to build a poweramp with something like 150 watts per side, but i realised how pointless that would be if i built a pair of speakers that were 95+ dB efficient. i was going ot construct a pair of Karlson K15s this summer...not everyone likes them...i kind of do. i am projecting 97-99dB efficiency depending on which drivers i use. mainly the Karlsons are known for punchy bass/midbass. with a good mid/tweeter setup to go with the 15" woofer i believe i will have a comptent party speaker as far as output is concerned, which also sounds good.
i always kind of preferred a 427 to a jacked-up civic, haha. i was considering a gainclone-based poweramp, but it almost looks like it'd be a little too easy to just slap together. i wanted a bit of a challenge without being impossible. besides, after doing a bunch of reading on power supplies, there's just something that appeals to me about beefy power supplies with lots of capacitance, as opposed to being smoothed by a measly pair of 4700 uF caps. besides, i can't be building poweramps all the time and i want to do it right the first time...i don't want to build a gainclone poweramp(no doubt it would probably sound good anyway), realise i wanted a KSA50 the whole time and go back to build the krell clone which would then cost more in the end. there's just something about class A i guess, haha.
i do believe i will go for it, the reponse from everyone has been pretty amazing so far and the thought of having something that shares DNA with an amp which has been considered "reference class" by some has me pretty hyped up. my parties are going to be reference class! besides, all my female friends seem to enjoy strong bass response, especially when sitting on top of speaker cabinets. i wonder why that is...
i've been lurking on DIY Audio for a while now, surfing various DIY related sites and reading up on stuff related to electronics since i was probably 15 or 16(started playing guitar and bass, got into tube instrument amps, then speakers, then solid state bass amps, then vintage hi-fi, and then DIY) and i think i'm finally ready to seal the deal, in terms of available time(i'm about to finish my exams for the year), finances and soldering skill/basic electronics knowledge.
K-amps said:
I hope someone has the patience to explain all this... 😀
haha, thank you to everyone who did 😎
jacco vermeulen said:
Don't ask me. I've allways been one to enjoy holding a cup of Brandy, or both.
i like brandy. i just don't drink it very often. probably won't be if we're havign keg parties

Stuart Easson said:Bikehorn,
The outstanding bass, and dynamic nature of the amp may make it a great party amp...
[snip]
...you can assemble a gainclone of nominally similar specs for about 1/10 the price, but it's like comparing a suped up honda civic to a cobra 427...
HTH
Stuart
P.S. I think I can find my boards etc, email me and we'll chat.
outstanding bass and dynamics is exactly what i wanted! when i'm done with my whole setup i wanted it to be characterised by, among other things, tons of punch and slam in the bass. my friends have never heard good bass...they think the weak little boomy sounding ported sub on their crappy Dell computer speakers is the be-all and end-all of bass. or that having a pile of cheap subs in a ricemobile hatchback is actually great sound.
initially i wanted to build a poweramp with something like 150 watts per side, but i realised how pointless that would be if i built a pair of speakers that were 95+ dB efficient. i was going ot construct a pair of Karlson K15s this summer...not everyone likes them...i kind of do. i am projecting 97-99dB efficiency depending on which drivers i use. mainly the Karlsons are known for punchy bass/midbass. with a good mid/tweeter setup to go with the 15" woofer i believe i will have a comptent party speaker as far as output is concerned, which also sounds good.
i always kind of preferred a 427 to a jacked-up civic, haha. i was considering a gainclone-based poweramp, but it almost looks like it'd be a little too easy to just slap together. i wanted a bit of a challenge without being impossible. besides, after doing a bunch of reading on power supplies, there's just something that appeals to me about beefy power supplies with lots of capacitance, as opposed to being smoothed by a measly pair of 4700 uF caps. besides, i can't be building poweramps all the time and i want to do it right the first time...i don't want to build a gainclone poweramp(no doubt it would probably sound good anyway), realise i wanted a KSA50 the whole time and go back to build the krell clone which would then cost more in the end. there's just something about class A i guess, haha.
rjkdivin said:
Having said all that, I would recommend you give it a try if you have the time to spend....you will learn a lot, and the help from the experienced builders on this thread has been great! (some are more patient than others....just be prepared for some constructive criticism once in a while). 🙂
By the way, I am working on some chip amp projects also, and they are indeed a lot simpler!
Robert
i do believe i will go for it, the reponse from everyone has been pretty amazing so far and the thought of having something that shares DNA with an amp which has been considered "reference class" by some has me pretty hyped up. my parties are going to be reference class! besides, all my female friends seem to enjoy strong bass response, especially when sitting on top of speaker cabinets. i wonder why that is...
i've been lurking on DIY Audio for a while now, surfing various DIY related sites and reading up on stuff related to electronics since i was probably 15 or 16(started playing guitar and bass, got into tube instrument amps, then speakers, then solid state bass amps, then vintage hi-fi, and then DIY) and i think i'm finally ready to seal the deal, in terms of available time(i'm about to finish my exams for the year), finances and soldering skill/basic electronics knowledge.
i think this is what i was trying to say earlier, couldn't articulate it too well. thanks. 🙂AndrewT said:Hi Bikehorn,
try using a single transformer of about 750VA to 1000VA for a 2channel Klone.
If you can source one, then go for four secondaries so that each low voltage side is completely independant.
LuckyLyndy said:If one truly is stuck in a miniature dorm room, and with a roommate, the stereo has to be pretty small.
And yes, I would suggest something small, digital, with most investment in good speakers for the dorm scene.
That said, best dorm system during my college days was:
BSR mini-tt>Dynaco Quad? Integrated>Dynaco A-25's.
At a nearby university, some guy had the biggest speakers I have ever seen, allowing possibly 4 party people in the room, to be deafened by Deep Purple Machine Head! Highway Star??? You could hear that stereo out in the Commons playing frisbee. I wonder if that dude has any hearing left.
Hmmmm....Keg Season is just around the corner...
i live in a dorm right now, and i have a 35 watt per channel Superscope R-1270 reciever and Technics SL-23 turntable with a pair of Wharfedale W-60s in here. it sounds pretty damn good, good enough for non-audiophiles to want to come over and party with me(certainly piqued the interest of more than a few hot girls 😉) just because of how good my music sounds and is only bested by my friend Steve's B&W DM220s and Kenwood receiver . he inherited the speakers from his dad because of a broken tweeter connection, which we promptly resoldered. next year i am moving into a house with some friends because second year and up students are generally discouraged from living on campus again here. besides, i don't even want to live in residence again. should make for some fun times, haha. unfortunately the layout of my house will make it impossible to hold keg parties, so we're "only" going to have some sweet BYOB parties, and, uh, other times maybe sit and listen to pink floyd after "freeing our minds" the herbal way. 😀
bikehorn said:i like brandy. i just don't drink it very often.
Oh, sorry. I thought you meant the girlfriend, the other kind of brandy i don't do either.
Your wharfedale/Superscope/Pink Floyd/Herbs combo is exactly my story during highschool, but you can call me granps.
pinkmouse said:Choky, you obviously haven't read this thread or you would know how helpful Pavel has been. He's getting free bits because he contributed, both here and privately to this project.
this was semi-joke......

for long time residents here Upupa is like all oldtimers ...
but for new ones- he patronize too often and too much ; look at some other threads
no matter how much helpful he was and is ,little politeness will be welcome
or I'm wrong?
Does anyone have a KSA-50 and or KSA-100 or access to one that they could possibly get me the exact chassis and heat sink dimensions? I just aquired a huge 4 foot section of the original tunnel heat sink and it would be fun to make an exact clone of these amps.
Thanks!
Mark
Thanks!
Mark
Does anyone have a KSA-50 and or KSA-100 or access to one that they could possibly get me the exact chassis and heat sink dimensions? I just aquired a huge 4 foot section of the original tunnel heat sink and it would be fun to make an exact clone of these amps.
Mark, i have ksa-50 mk 1. if you want to i'll measure height of heat-tunnel and can give you all dimensions you want.
Just to make sure, bikehorn, you know what you're getting yourself into , this is just pic of work in progress (i'm not even halfway finished, stuffing pcb's is actually the easiest part- just make sure you don't "free your mind" before you work on this amp 😀 )

Klaas
Hi Klaas,
That would be greatly appreciated. I need.....
Height of the heat tunnel heatsink only
Dimensions of chassis minus the front panel.
Thanks a million!
Mark
That would be greatly appreciated. I need.....
Height of the heat tunnel heatsink only
Dimensions of chassis minus the front panel.
Thanks a million!
Mark
Mark,
Height of heatsinks is 102 mm.
Outside dimensions of case (hxwxd) are: 192 x 433 x 382 mm
-without front panel, back handles, feet etc, just "the box"
glad i could help, if you need more info just let me know
Klaas
Height of heatsinks is 102 mm.
Outside dimensions of case (hxwxd) are: 192 x 433 x 382 mm
-without front panel, back handles, feet etc, just "the box"
glad i could help, if you need more info just let me know
Klaas
standard heatsink 102mm high!
what is the width and depth of the heatsink
looks like my heatsinks are a bit overkill😀
http://www.conradheatsinks.com/products/flat_hd.html
151mm high, 2 per chanel for tunnel
dam it, i am just going to have to bump up the current😀
allan
what is the width and depth of the heatsink
looks like my heatsinks are a bit overkill😀
http://www.conradheatsinks.com/products/flat_hd.html
151mm high, 2 per chanel for tunnel
dam it, i am just going to have to bump up the current😀
allan
GeWa said:Are those heatsinks in a Krell only 102mm high
Even worse, heatsinks of the KSA100 are also 4" high.
A TO3 is 1.5" measured across the holes =>
http://home.ca.inter.net/~lloyd.maclean/Krell/Krell.htm
jacco vermeulen said:
Even worse, heatsinks of the KSA100 are also 4" high.
A TO3 is 1.5" measured across the holes =>
http://home.ca.inter.net/~lloyd.maclean/Krell/Krell.htm
same heatsinks (25.4*4=101.6mm)
allan
more airflow, bigger or faster fans?
jacco vermeulen said:
Even worse, heatsinks of the KSA100 are also 4" high.
A TO3 is 1.5" measured across the holes =>
http://home.ca.inter.net/~lloyd.maclean/Krell/Krell.htm
But there are 2 of them.....But there are 2 of them.


K-amps said:
But there are 2 of them.....But there are 2 of them.
.........................
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what?
the ksa50 used one pair(both chanels) and the ksa100 used 2 pairs?
allan
4 heatsinks form square of approx. 5" (125 mm)
Remember my mk1 is not biased into 50 watts class-a.
(has one tunnel for two channels)
with +/- 47 volts ps-voltage it is more class-ab 2x100 w with huge amount of bias.
Also , after few hours of warm-up, entire case works as heatsink too 😉 10 mm thick frontpanel gets comfortably warm
Klaas
Remember my mk1 is not biased into 50 watts class-a.
(has one tunnel for two channels)
with +/- 47 volts ps-voltage it is more class-ab 2x100 w with huge amount of bias.
Also , after few hours of warm-up, entire case works as heatsink too 😉 10 mm thick frontpanel gets comfortably warm
dont worry awpagan, those will probably get hot. thermal resistance conrad states is at 80 degr. above ambient -meaning your amp is fried before you reach that temperature/thermal resistance. Tunnel i'll be using is 170x150x250mm for both channels, with 4 x 80 mm papst-fans blowing air through.Hopefully this will be enough to get to 50w class-a/8 ohm.looks like my heatsinks are a bit overkill
Klaas
awpagan said:
what?
the ksa50 used one pair(both chanels) and the ksa100 used 2 pairs?
allan
KSA-50 used 1 tunnel with 8 devices (4 per channel).
KSA-100 used 2 of those tunnels.
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