I'm already vomitting, K.
On the picture it looks like a nice quality toroid, the windings look neat and tight. Great deal, i'm not gonna tell what such a donut costs overhere, or you'll be posting 2 KVA toroid pictures for a decade.
On the picture it looks like a nice quality toroid, the windings look neat and tight. Great deal, i'm not gonna tell what such a donut costs overhere, or you'll be posting 2 KVA toroid pictures for a decade.
Whoo...
That thingie is made by former norwegian/swedish co. Transduktor/Ulveco, now Toroid!
The hedgehog logo is still the same as 25 years ago!
There are but a few times I regret living in my very quiet corner of the world...
That thingie is made by former norwegian/swedish co. Transduktor/Ulveco, now Toroid!
The hedgehog logo is still the same as 25 years ago!
There are but a few times I regret living in my very quiet corner of the world...
Got 2x550VA myself, quality stuff those Transduktors!That thingie is made by former norwegian/swedish co. Transduktor/Ulveco, now Toroid!
googler said:
He has 2 less now in his inventory... 😀
Second one incase I want 80v rails.

But did ya'll see the case? Very nice completely finished case... Would the heat sinks work for the KSA-50 klone?
I have 2 kits left to send out. Both OCONUS. But I am shipping all OCONUS kits FedEx Priority air so they will arrive in 2 -3 days after shipping.
It was brought up that C104 and C109 in the JAN kits may be incorrect.
"C104, C109:
I looked on the BOM you had made, and checked the DigiKey site to reference your order. You had ordered 0.1uF caps, but I "think" I have 0.001uF caps. I also looked at LGreen's pics of his boards, and they are marked "100J100." The caps I have are marked "1n0J100." I also tried to verify with my meter, and it showed <1nF."
I have been very busy and have not investigated the matter further, but hope to do so tonight or tomorrow.
I have 2 kits left to send out. Both OCONUS. But I am shipping all OCONUS kits FedEx Priority air so they will arrive in 2 -3 days after shipping.
It was brought up that C104 and C109 in the JAN kits may be incorrect.
"C104, C109:
I looked on the BOM you had made, and checked the DigiKey site to reference your order. You had ordered 0.1uF caps, but I "think" I have 0.001uF caps. I also looked at LGreen's pics of his boards, and they are marked "100J100." The caps I have are marked "1n0J100." I also tried to verify with my meter, and it showed <1nF."
I have been very busy and have not investigated the matter further, but hope to do so tonight or tomorrow.
Yes very nice Chassis, and not that I am da expert in sinking like Andrew and Jacco, but 55c rise at 100w looks anemic for the KSA-50... no?
That thingie is made by former norwegian/swedish co. Transduktor/Ulveco, now Toroid!
Yea, Uncle Lars does make some nice stuff. I also have his toroids powering my Aleph 2's. BTW: why are they a former Norwegian/Sweedish company and not a current one?
And Just For Jacco......



Mark

Attachments
That's an interesting question, but related to the now well established practice in busines where everyone is constantly gobbling up each other.....Mark A. Gulbrandsen said:
BTW: why are they a former Norwegian/Sweedish company and not a current one?
Mark
The company started in the very early 70ies, and I remember buying directly from the original co. Norsk Transduktor in 74. while still in college.
Some years ago it was gobbled by Toroid, an international consortium. Two years ago this was gobbled by Noratel, a well established norwegian co. in transformers and power electronics. This co. .is owned by Ferd Private Equity Fund, a norwegian lead investment and holding co.
Mark A. Gulbrandsen said:
Yea, Uncle Lars does make some nice stuff. I also have his toroids powering my Aleph 2's. BTW: why are they a former Norwegian/Sweedish company and not a current one?
And Just For Jacco......![]()
"Toroids With A Sprinkle Of Toroidial Inductors "
Mark![]()
Geographically Jacco and I are not far apart from each other so I'm feeling the same pain when looking at those trannies

Regards
pinkmouse said:
Well, I won't say we don't need the cash, 'cos we do. 🙂
But if you really made $300, then I think there are a couple of people that deserve a bottle of wine or box of chocolates in our own little cloning gang, i.e. Jan, who got us going to start with, and Troy, who's been sweating over the component kits for the last 6 months. 😉
The cost to Troy was mental not monetary... 😱
The BOM's were soooo close with the tiniest of differences that I stressed tremendously.. I now have gray hair in places I DIDN'T have hair!
Please excuse my terrible sense of humor since, uh since, .... Ok well there is no excuse; I just have a terrible sense of humor.
I wrote the guy with the 2K toriods and asked him for a price on 4 of those chassis for my self and repute. I need 2 (one for Krell KSA-50 and one for Pass Mini-A / A30) and I am hoping they would be able to cope with the heat of the krell...
Anyone care to comment? As was mentioned earlier, 55* @ 100W... Isn't that what the Krell does? 100W? Or is that a reference to the AC disapation which is ~ 250 -300W?
Troy,
No amount of thanks os enuff for you, and I can say this for sure, without your kits, I do not think I would be making any KSA-50's
No amount of thanks os enuff for you, and I can say this for sure, without your kits, I do not think I would be making any KSA-50's
So I got this 2 KVA toroid sitting here and no idea what the color code on the leads means. I certainly DON"T want to damage this baby!
This is obviously a dual primary/dual secondary transformer. One set of leads is black, brown, and blue. Another set is white,gray, and orange. I assume these are the primary leads as they are also smaller guage wire. The other two pairs of leads are color coded both the same.... red,orange, and blue and are easily twice the guage of wire.
Can I assume the below statement....?
That the primary 120 volt leads are the black and brown and orange and white? The 100 volt taps are the blue and gray?
That the center tap on the secondaries are the blue leads and that the red and orange are the secondary windings on each side of the center tap(blue wire?)?
Don't know if there is an international color code on this......
Thanks!
Mark
This is obviously a dual primary/dual secondary transformer. One set of leads is black, brown, and blue. Another set is white,gray, and orange. I assume these are the primary leads as they are also smaller guage wire. The other two pairs of leads are color coded both the same.... red,orange, and blue and are easily twice the guage of wire.
Can I assume the below statement....?
That the primary 120 volt leads are the black and brown and orange and white? The 100 volt taps are the blue and gray?
That the center tap on the secondaries are the blue leads and that the red and orange are the secondary windings on each side of the center tap(blue wire?)?
Don't know if there is an international color code on this......
Thanks!
Mark
Mark A. Gulbrandsen said:So I got this 2 KVA toroid sitting here and no idea what the color code on the leads means. I certainly DON"T want to damage this baby!
This is obviously a dual primary/dual secondary transformer. One set of leads is black, brown, and blue. Another set is white,gray, and orange. I assume these are the primary leads as they are also smaller guage wire. The other two pairs of leads are color coded both the same.... red,orange, and blue and are easily twice the guage of wire.
Can I assume the below statement....?
That the primary 120 volt leads are the black and brown and orange and white? The 100 volt taps are the blue and gray?
That the center tap on the secondaries are the blue leads and that the red and orange are the secondary windings on each side of the center tap(blue wire?)?
Don't know if there is an international color code on this......
Thanks!
Mark
orange and brown were 107 volt colors back when I was an electrician...
My guess is:
white and black are 117V
orange and brown are 100V
and blue / gray 220V
HOWEVER:
white(Neutal) and black(hot) are current US standards for 117V Blue(neutral) and Brown(hot) are current UK standards fo 220V
So your guess is as good as mine. You can use an Ohm meter to find the matching ends and then the highest resistance coil should be the highest voltage.. BIG assumption there... 🙂
Mark,
I sent an email to the seller... prolly no replay as you would have tried it already. Will keep you posted regardless.
Question: Can the 100v tap be practically used with regular 120v mains?
i.e. upping the sec voltage to about 45vdc. or 34vac-0-34vac
I sent an email to the seller... prolly no replay as you would have tried it already. Will keep you posted regardless.
Question: Can the 100v tap be practically used with regular 120v mains?
i.e. upping the sec voltage to about 45vdc. or 34vac-0-34vac
Thanks googler! That will save me from shutting down the power company in case I mess up....
Mark
Mark
No problem Mark!
I just got my heatsinks last week as well - they are gold anodized - 12Lx5Wx5H with 14 ribbed fins each. Problem is the fins run the length not the width. I will most likely cut them to 6" lengths and flip them upright.
Do any of you thermal dynamic guru's use a rule or equation to determine ideal transistor placement on heatsinks?
Thanks,
Brad
I just got my heatsinks last week as well - they are gold anodized - 12Lx5Wx5H with 14 ribbed fins each. Problem is the fins run the length not the width. I will most likely cut them to 6" lengths and flip them upright.
Do any of you thermal dynamic guru's use a rule or equation to determine ideal transistor placement on heatsinks?
Thanks,
Brad
Most Guru's talk about placing is about 25-30% from the bottom.
Gold anodized eh, some pictures for Jacco?
Gold anodized eh, some pictures for Jacco?
I'll try to get some pics up tonight.
They were surplus - got them off an ebay auction. The one thing I wasn't couting on is the entire base plate looks like it is covered in silpad-like material. Is that common in commercial applications?
~Brad
They were surplus - got them off an ebay auction. The one thing I wasn't couting on is the entire base plate looks like it is covered in silpad-like material. Is that common in commercial applications?
~Brad
It turns out that this transformer is a 1.240 kva unit... still much larger than the seperate 400 va units that were used in the original KSA-50's but not 2KVA as advertised.
Got mine in and running just fine with the help of that spec sheet from Googler. Sound quality to me is much better than it was with the 400 VA units... especially the bottom end. I ended up with +/- 38 volts under load... I ran each primary's hot lead through a CL-60 inrush limiter to keep the fuses behaving. With out the CL-60's the voltage would probably be about +/-39 volts DC.
All in all this tranny is a steal.... grab em up boys!
Mark
Got mine in and running just fine with the help of that spec sheet from Googler. Sound quality to me is much better than it was with the 400 VA units... especially the bottom end. I ended up with +/- 38 volts under load... I ran each primary's hot lead through a CL-60 inrush limiter to keep the fuses behaving. With out the CL-60's the voltage would probably be about +/-39 volts DC.
All in all this tranny is a steal.... grab em up boys!
Mark
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