OK, last question for real this time. It does actually run a a teeny bit fast. Is there an adjustment for this?
I'm going to play with the motor mounting a bit to see if that addresses the speed issue, but I thought I'd ask in case anyone knows.
Kofi
I'm going to play with the motor mounting a bit to see if that addresses the speed issue, but I thought I'd ask in case anyone knows.
Kofi
Hi kofi - you owe us bigtime for the wild goose chase - or we send the security council after you😀
Since the motor is a synchronous ac motor - as far as i recall -, there ain't much to adjust.
But if it just runs a teensie bit fast - why worrie? My old transcriptor hydraulik whom i had a new pully machined for does the same. Except for people with perfect pitch or for studio purposes IMHO it doesn't matter.
You could use the already recommended power supply at a couple of hundred bucks - but that would defeat the purpose of a reasonably price TT, wouldn't it?
Since the motor is a synchronous ac motor - as far as i recall -, there ain't much to adjust.
But if it just runs a teensie bit fast - why worrie? My old transcriptor hydraulik whom i had a new pully machined for does the same. Except for people with perfect pitch or for studio purposes IMHO it doesn't matter.
You could use the already recommended power supply at a couple of hundred bucks - but that would defeat the purpose of a reasonably price TT, wouldn't it?
Hi Kofi,
Use a light solvent to remove the dark line on the pulley. That will reduce the diameter of the pulley ever so slightly.
I have owned and enjoyed the Thorens TD-160, 125 MkII (current), TD-115 and others. My cartridge of choice so far is a Ortofon VMS-30E, I'm told an OM-30 is the same beast. The original Thorens arm is fine, nothing wrong with them.
Anyone know where to get original Thorens belts? Most have an incorrect width.
There are many fine turntables, I don't believe the Thorens tt or arm deserves to be knocked. Esp. in their price range.
-Chris
Use a light solvent to remove the dark line on the pulley. That will reduce the diameter of the pulley ever so slightly.
I have owned and enjoyed the Thorens TD-160, 125 MkII (current), TD-115 and others. My cartridge of choice so far is a Ortofon VMS-30E, I'm told an OM-30 is the same beast. The original Thorens arm is fine, nothing wrong with them.
Anyone know where to get original Thorens belts? Most have an incorrect width.
There are many fine turntables, I don't believe the Thorens tt or arm deserves to be knocked. Esp. in their price range.
-Chris
The Security Council? I am the motherfather Security Council, motherfather!!!
Just watched The Last Detail and I couldn't resist.
Yeah... but its driving me nuts. Well, more so.
I really want to slow it down a bit. I think I'll try and shim the motor down a bit an see if that will help. Sorry, but once you hear something, you just gotta fix it. Like when I point out to Mrs. Annan that the faucet is dripping and she didn't notice it before. Then she hears it. Then she can't stop hearing it. Then she hits me in the face.
Will Formula 409 work? I could go as high as Formula 412 if necessary, but that's experimental. Hey, I wonder where the schmuck is who thought up Formula 408?
I got mine from Trian Electronics. It says "Thorens" on the belt and they're the official Thorens dealer in the US, so I'm assuming its authentic.
Any other ideas on how to slow this down a bit?
Kofi
Thanks Kofi,
Use Methyl Hydrate or lacquer thinner to remove all the rubber off the pulley. Fold up a paper towel so you don't dissolve a Q-tip.
If you want to slowly make the pulley smaller, run the motor and gently hold some 600 grit wet / dry sandpaper against the pulley. Maintain the original contour.
The better Thorens tables used a multiphase frequency generator. Basically an AC synchronous motor driven from an internal oscillator. The was an adjustment available as well. You may be able to use a cassette motor to drive the table, but I can't see this being as stable as the Thorens units. Look up the TD 125 MKII for the motor design.
-Chris
Use Methyl Hydrate or lacquer thinner to remove all the rubber off the pulley. Fold up a paper towel so you don't dissolve a Q-tip.
If you want to slowly make the pulley smaller, run the motor and gently hold some 600 grit wet / dry sandpaper against the pulley. Maintain the original contour.
The better Thorens tables used a multiphase frequency generator. Basically an AC synchronous motor driven from an internal oscillator. The was an adjustment available as well. You may be able to use a cassette motor to drive the table, but I can't see this being as stable as the Thorens units. Look up the TD 125 MKII for the motor design.
-Chris
Will do.
Maintainin' the original contour is what I'm all about, mah man!
Hey-- if I get the Rega RB250, will I have to build an armboard or can I mount it in place of the original Thorens arm?
Kofi
Thorens belts can be had from Sound Hounds... 250 595 HiFi
i just use isopropanol to clean the pullies.
dave
i just use isopropanol to clean the pullies.
dave
Last last question (probably):
Just bought a Rega RB-250 off Audiogon and I need to know if there's something special I need to do to mount it to the Thorens TD-160. Will I need to build a tonearm board? If so, what materials are best?
Will I ever stop asking questions? Will I? What's that rash on my leg? OK, I can ask a doctor about that one. Just help me with the tonearm mounting then.
Kofi
Just bought a Rega RB-250 off Audiogon and I need to know if there's something special I need to do to mount it to the Thorens TD-160. Will I need to build a tonearm board? If so, what materials are best?
Will I ever stop asking questions? Will I? What's that rash on my leg? OK, I can ask a doctor about that one. Just help me with the tonearm mounting then.
Kofi
Aluminum tends to sound bright, where as wood is to reasonant and will lead to some colouration. Acrylic is very good IMHO. I suspect delrin would be very good as well.
Regards
Hi Kofi,
Thorens actually made blank mounting boards for that purpose. They were made of MDF and should not be that hard to replicate. The top surface was painted semi-gloss black.
MDF is not a very resonant material, if you are worried about this, you can stick putty an the bottom. I don't recommend this, as it throws the weight off. Just copy the board that is on the unit.
-Chris
Thorens actually made blank mounting boards for that purpose. They were made of MDF and should not be that hard to replicate. The top surface was painted semi-gloss black.
MDF is not a very resonant material, if you are worried about this, you can stick putty an the bottom. I don't recommend this, as it throws the weight off. Just copy the board that is on the unit.
-Chris
Should the new armboard be attached to the sprooooing mechanism on the Thorens like the current arm is or should it lay on top of the platter, not attached?
Am I making sense here? I can't tell anymore.
Kofi
Am I making sense here? I can't tell anymore.
Kofi
Hi Kofi,
Since I am now using a TD-125 MKII, that's what I am remembering. I think the arm board screwed from the bottom on the TD-160 series. Mount it the same as the original, it uses the same mounting screws.
Others may disagree, but I think the best mounting board and method is used by the manufacturer when looking at products in this class.
-Chris
Since I am now using a TD-125 MKII, that's what I am remembering. I think the arm board screwed from the bottom on the TD-160 series. Mount it the same as the original, it uses the same mounting screws.
Others may disagree, but I think the best mounting board and method is used by the manufacturer when looking at products in this class.
-Chris
Thanks!
And since I don't have the mounting template, how will I be able to tell where to drill the hole for the pivot? Will I use the same place as the Thorens or will I need to change it?
Kofi
And since I don't have the mounting template, how will I be able to tell where to drill the hole for the pivot? Will I use the same place as the Thorens or will I need to change it?
Kofi
Hi Kofi,
Normally, you would mount your blank and use the mounting template that came with the arm. That sets up your overhange range. The height may also need to be adjusted. Check the web for instructions on this. I only know what I've seen while servicing these. My stuff has always used the manufacturer's arm.
One reason I haven't changed arms in the past is a the poor mounting jobs I have seen. Also, many arms that cost more were the same, or inferiour to the factory arm. I guess it's easy to throw darts at a stock item.
Sorry I couldn't help you more withthe specifics.
-Chris
Normally, you would mount your blank and use the mounting template that came with the arm. That sets up your overhange range. The height may also need to be adjusted. Check the web for instructions on this. I only know what I've seen while servicing these. My stuff has always used the manufacturer's arm.
One reason I haven't changed arms in the past is a the poor mounting jobs I have seen. Also, many arms that cost more were the same, or inferiour to the factory arm. I guess it's easy to throw darts at a stock item.
Sorry I couldn't help you more withthe specifics.
-Chris
Thanks!
After much examination, I came to the convincing conclusion that the original arm was toast. I could feel the resistance in the arm as it ventured toward the center of the record. Plus, the tension line was broken... headshell wires had seen better days... etc. Hence, the bailout and purchase of a new arm.
I did like the Thorens arm, though, when it worked. Sounded fine.
Joined the Vinyl Engine forum and found the information.
According to the Origin Live version of the Rega setup instructions, the distance is 223mm. I had downloaded the Rega manual, but it only indicated that I needed the template. The Origin Live version had the details.
Man, this is going to be a bit more complicated than I thought. I tried to make a template out of MDF this evening and failed miserably. I just couldn't get the depth correct. Side-cutting 15mm MDF really sucks.
Any other helpful hints you can provide would be much appreciated.
Thanks for all the advice!
Kofi
After much examination, I came to the convincing conclusion that the original arm was toast. I could feel the resistance in the arm as it ventured toward the center of the record. Plus, the tension line was broken... headshell wires had seen better days... etc. Hence, the bailout and purchase of a new arm.
I did like the Thorens arm, though, when it worked. Sounded fine.
Joined the Vinyl Engine forum and found the information.
According to the Origin Live version of the Rega setup instructions, the distance is 223mm. I had downloaded the Rega manual, but it only indicated that I needed the template. The Origin Live version had the details.
Man, this is going to be a bit more complicated than I thought. I tried to make a template out of MDF this evening and failed miserably. I just couldn't get the depth correct. Side-cutting 15mm MDF really sucks.
Any other helpful hints you can provide would be much appreciated.
Thanks for all the advice!
Kofi
And another....
Also, I did actually sand the spindle quite a bit to reduce the speed. It had an exceedingly low yield on the effort / results ratio, so I started to look at the motor mounting.
The TD-160 motor is held in place by three screws (well, two screws and one screw post). The screw nearest to the platter is on a tight spring, which made me think. I loosened this screw a bit and the spring kept the mounting firm, but the motor inched (millimetered?) closed to the platter which, in turn, slowed the rotation.
I effed with this for a few hours and finally got the speed about right.
Per your collective advice, I mounted the Rega with MDF. It was surprisingly easy to do. I'm sure the VTA could use to be adjusted, but I think I'm going to leave that for another day-- unless of course someone preaches disaster to me about this...
The sound is truly beautiful and I can again enjoy my vinyl collection! Even Mrs. Annan is pleased. Well, by "pleased" I mean she's stopped hitting me in the face. Relative terms, baby.
Also installed some new Auricaps and stepped attenuators in the tube line stage, so that's really smoothing out the sound. Never thought I'd ask for and be delighted to receive capacitors for Christmas, but there you go.
Thanks again for all the fine help you all gave, and thanks for putting up with my stupidity. Now I gotta listen to vinyl and wait for something else to screw up.
Kofi
PS-- I'll be building a tube phono stage soon, and you know what that means. Don't think you're rid of me. I know where you live.
Also, I did actually sand the spindle quite a bit to reduce the speed. It had an exceedingly low yield on the effort / results ratio, so I started to look at the motor mounting.
The TD-160 motor is held in place by three screws (well, two screws and one screw post). The screw nearest to the platter is on a tight spring, which made me think. I loosened this screw a bit and the spring kept the mounting firm, but the motor inched (millimetered?) closed to the platter which, in turn, slowed the rotation.
I effed with this for a few hours and finally got the speed about right.
Per your collective advice, I mounted the Rega with MDF. It was surprisingly easy to do. I'm sure the VTA could use to be adjusted, but I think I'm going to leave that for another day-- unless of course someone preaches disaster to me about this...
The sound is truly beautiful and I can again enjoy my vinyl collection! Even Mrs. Annan is pleased. Well, by "pleased" I mean she's stopped hitting me in the face. Relative terms, baby.
Also installed some new Auricaps and stepped attenuators in the tube line stage, so that's really smoothing out the sound. Never thought I'd ask for and be delighted to receive capacitors for Christmas, but there you go.
Thanks again for all the fine help you all gave, and thanks for putting up with my stupidity. Now I gotta listen to vinyl and wait for something else to screw up.
Kofi
PS-- I'll be building a tube phono stage soon, and you know what that means. Don't think you're rid of me. I know where you live.
Attachments
Hi Kofi,
Now it looks like you can enjoy some music! Are you going to paint the tonearm mount some time?
You might want to look into something like a "Platter Matter" to replace the original mat at some point. This thing adheres to the album and damps out resonace pretty well. You have to peel it off the LP after use. It's a pain to use but makes a hugh difference to the music. Enough so that I still use mine.
Don't forget to correct the vertical tracking angle if you change mats.
Well done,
-Chris
Now it looks like you can enjoy some music! Are you going to paint the tonearm mount some time?
You might want to look into something like a "Platter Matter" to replace the original mat at some point. This thing adheres to the album and damps out resonace pretty well. You have to peel it off the LP after use. It's a pain to use but makes a hugh difference to the music. Enough so that I still use mine.
Don't forget to correct the vertical tracking angle if you change mats.
Well done,
-Chris
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