Kirishima Fostex FE208e∑ build

So, thanks to a very generous forum member I got some fostex 208 sigma drivers for a great price, and decided to build the kirishimia cabinets (should have gone to the gym for 6 weeks!)
Already having the fostex t90a (as the 208 sigma is a 'wide range driver, not full range it needs upper support imo)
So.
I am lucky that I work for a small furniture company (I am no maker!) And have access to some very expensive saws etc.
Cut a long story short here are some pics.
They are progressing in an American black walnut veneer finish with plain grey sides.

Any questions please let me know.

For the veneering I only (now) use contact adhesive, the evostick thixatropic is just a joy to work with, and any bits that don't stick, nothing that a hot iron won't sort.
 

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Thoughts (my best mates idea) on a mount for the tweeter, it simply fixes behind the driver (in the driver mount holes) made in metal.
 

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The metal bracket will vibrate..maybe a chunk or box of wood mounted on the side? You could make a box open on the front (/back..) to fit around the tweeter affixed to the main speaker with screws in brass inserts of some kind.
 
Sorry, I got an edit in there. What might look cool is a solid piece of wood or ply with a cylinder drilled out of it that fits right around the tweeter, then attached inside the hole with screws into inserts in the side of the cabinet. you could round the side, like a D shape. You have nice tools to use! 🙂
 
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Presumably when you say you are 'crossing at 17KHz' it isn't a brick wall; if it's a 1st order electrical, then assuming a nominally flat FR, impedance from the T90a, it's a -3dB corner frequency only, so is only going to be 6dB down at 8.5KHz, 12dB down at 4.25KHz, below which this will naturally accelerate as you hit the driver's mechanical rolloff. That's not very much, so large separations are not likely to be a good idea or the phasing will go to bits.
 
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