Ok I have a question Like an idiot i was tired and put the class D board in backwards and powerd it up. Now it goes into protection. Yeah i know im an idiot.
Wondering if you think i damaged something on the main board or did i damage something on the class D board??
Wondering if you think i damaged something on the main board or did i damage something on the class D board??
It did outputs are junk
They are marked 1xtq36n30p
Is there a good replacement?? or do you have a part number unless that is it?
They are marked 1xtq36n30p
Is there a good replacement?? or do you have a part number unless that is it?
The gate drive signal for the power supply MOSFETs doesn't look right.As Perry said it causes cross conduction,that is why it has higher idle current.The falling edge of the pulses shouldn't have this slope.Try MJE171 and MJE181 for the MOSFET drivers for example.This problem needs to be taken care of,so it doesn't cause problems again.
Don't worry about the output inductor getting hot.The material used is 60(hi temp 200C Micrometals).Thermal runaway and aging will not be a problem.Also it uses the top plate as a heatsink to help with cooling.Anyway,I am working on improving this with a new lower loss Magnetics core.
I will send you MOSFETs ,but be carefull next time
Don't worry about the output inductor getting hot.The material used is 60(hi temp 200C Micrometals).Thermal runaway and aging will not be a problem.Also it uses the top plate as a heatsink to help with cooling.Anyway,I am working on improving this with a new lower loss Magnetics core.
I will send you MOSFETs ,but be carefull next time
I don't know about this amp but on other amps, it was possible to blow the outputs with no remote voltage applied. The energy stored in the rail caps was enough to blow the outputs when removing/installing driver boards. Allow the rail caps to drain completely before removing/installing the driver board.
Perry ,
I should be getting the parts later today for this amp.
The orginal gate resistors were mark 1000 so i figured they were 100 ohms gate resistors thats what i put in the amp.
The orginal fets were irf3205's i replaced them with Irf3205's but wondering if the fets could be the problem with this amp? (not enough dead time)
I should be getting the parts later today for this amp.
The orginal gate resistors were mark 1000 so i figured they were 100 ohms gate resistors thats what i put in the amp.
The orginal fets were irf3205's i replaced them with Irf3205's but wondering if the fets could be the problem with this amp? (not enough dead time)
This (and other kickers with 3205s and 100 ohm gate resistors) have additional deadtime built into the drive circuit. The deadtime pin isn't connected to ground. It has ~0.2v on it which provides the additional deadtime.
So i should replace the drivers as suggested by Carampsguru?
Switching the 2sb647 and 2sd667 with the MJE171 and MJE181?
I appericate the help from you and him on this amp.
Switching the 2sb647 and 2sd667 with the MJE171 and MJE181?
I appericate the help from you and him on this amp.
Yes he does and im am very very thankful and appericate it alot that he sent me the rectifiers for it.
Ill try what he suggested for the drivers.
I also found a bad transistor in the output section so im gonna replace that when replacing the outputs.
Ill try what he suggested for the drivers.
I also found a bad transistor in the output section so im gonna replace that when replacing the outputs.
Not to change the subject but where can i buy one of your cd's for the amp repair so i can read and learn alot more about amps since im fixing tons of theese things
I actually designed the ZX1000.1 and ZX1500.1 5years ago.
Mike,change the driver transistors as I previously said.Also,I am sending you 8pc IXTQ36N30 today.
Perry,you are of huge help in the forum ,please keep providing your opinion.Obviously you have long experience in car amp repair .I personally have shown your BCA website to many people who want to learn more .It is pretty well done 🙂.
Mike,change the driver transistors as I previously said.Also,I am sending you 8pc IXTQ36N30 today.
Perry,you are of huge help in the forum ,please keep providing your opinion.Obviously you have long experience in car amp repair .I personally have shown your BCA website to many people who want to learn more .It is pretty well done 🙂.
Ok I dont need the outputs as i pulled them out of circuit and all test 100% fine.
Q17 (2X) MMBT4401 appears to be defective.
Im reading .100 from collector to emitter
Q17 (2X) MMBT4401 appears to be defective.
Im reading .100 from collector to emitter
Wondering where i start looking on this amp since it goes into protection?
Outputs test fine if i pull the outputs off the board amp powers up fine.
If the outputs are in the amp the amp goes into protection mode but they all test fine
Outputs test fine if i pull the outputs off the board amp powers up fine.
If the outputs are in the amp the amp goes into protection mode but they all test fine
carampsguru:
Thanks, and if you see that I've made a mistake with an amp that you designed, please step in and correct it.
Mike:
Does the amp produce any DC offset (black probe on the negative speaker terminal) on the output filter inductor as the amp tries to power up?
Thanks, and if you see that I've made a mistake with an amp that you designed, please step in and correct it.
Mike:
Does the amp produce any DC offset (black probe on the negative speaker terminal) on the output filter inductor as the amp tries to power up?
Hi guys, I happened upon this thread and thought I would offer a hint that has helped me a lot in the past. I used to repair most of the car amps in Kansas City years ago. One of the best troubleshooting tools I had was an adjustable bipolar power supply. You can feed the amp section directly by clipping onto the rectifier leads and with current limited, you can trace where the short/dc offset is occurring.
A lot of amps would produce audio as long as the turn on lead had 12 volts (not the main power lead). This would eliminate the power supply and possibly save it from damage.
Regards, gearheaddruid.
A lot of amps would produce audio as long as the turn on lead had 12 volts (not the main power lead). This would eliminate the power supply and possibly save it from damage.
Regards, gearheaddruid.
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