That looks OK at face value.
Are you absolutely certain your meter is OK and that those DC voltages really are as high as 12 volts? I just can't see both regulators being faulty. If the 7 volt supply really was high at 12 volts then the 5 volt regulator should/would still work and still give 5 volts. Conversely if the 5 volt regulator were faulty then the 7 volt one would still be correct. Something is not adding up here.
Check your meter on a 9 volt battery for example and see it reads correctly.
Are you absolutely certain your meter is OK and that those DC voltages really are as high as 12 volts? I just can't see both regulators being faulty. If the 7 volt supply really was high at 12 volts then the 5 volt regulator should/would still work and still give 5 volts. Conversely if the 5 volt regulator were faulty then the 7 volt one would still be correct. Something is not adding up here.
Check your meter on a 9 volt battery for example and see it reads correctly.
Yep - meter is set to 20v DC, checked a AA battery and got 1.10v
i checked again and on Q2 and Q3, and R105 and R106 I have 12-13v on all legs.
I even have 12v on the heatsink that holds Q2 - here is how it looks after I put it back:
(the heat sink is the 2 large solder points centre of the photo - the 3 pins directly below are Q2)
On Q1 I get -19v on pin1 (emitter).
I also removed IC1 and meter tester gives the following:
I've also tested R105 and R106 which gave correct readings of 2 and 1 ohms respectively.
Q3 tested on the board with my tester and I get:
i checked again and on Q2 and Q3, and R105 and R106 I have 12-13v on all legs.
I even have 12v on the heatsink that holds Q2 - here is how it looks after I put it back:
(the heat sink is the 2 large solder points centre of the photo - the 3 pins directly below are Q2)
On Q1 I get -19v on pin1 (emitter).
I also removed IC1 and meter tester gives the following:
I've also tested R105 and R106 which gave correct readings of 2 and 1 ohms respectively.
Q3 tested on the board with my tester and I get:
I would have expected about 1.6v for a new battery tbh. That seems to imply your meter is reading low which makes your measured readings even worse.
Can you do one important test. Using the identical ground point used for the above measurements can you measure on a couple of these circled points. Measure to the component itself. You should zee 0.00 volts on all.
Before I take those measurements I thought I'd take a step back and trace the tracks on the pcb, and I noticed something:
Presumably pins 2 and 3 combine to carry the ground to the centre pin of IC1 and IC2. However using my DMM in diode mode I get an open circuit where my arrow with question mark is. The large solder point is the heatsink which I had to resolder when I removed the mosfet. I'm guessing I need to touch a bit of solder to make there?
Is my logic correct?
Presumably pins 2 and 3 combine to carry the ground to the centre pin of IC1 and IC2. However using my DMM in diode mode I get an open circuit where my arrow with question mark is. The large solder point is the heatsink which I had to resolder when I removed the mosfet. I'm guessing I need to touch a bit of solder to make there?
Is my logic correct?
The print could well be cracked there. Don't use solder alone as it is fragile and will crack, lay a bit or wire (bit of resistor leg is perfect ) over the break and put solder on to that. Breaks like that are common around pads when any rework has been done.
Hard to tell in pictures bit the other side of the pad looks as if the print may be creased or lifted and so you could add wire neatly to cover those two and continue it to the next pad on the left.
Hard to tell in pictures bit the other side of the pad looks as if the print may be creased or lifted and so you could add wire neatly to cover those two and continue it to the next pad on the left.
Ok fixed the tracks and I now get continuity to IC1.
I noticed to that I have the ground continuity along the green dotted line to a b solder point. But there is no continuity to the green circle. That is the positive leg of C3 so I gues htat is by design and I didn't break something on that track. Here is a close up of that point where the green dotted line end.
I noticed to that I have the ground continuity along the green dotted line to a b solder point. But there is no continuity to the green circle. That is the positive leg of C3 so I gues htat is by design and I didn't break something on that track. Here is a close up of that point where the green dotted line end.
Lets go back to your original picture. There should be continuity all along this track to the main ground. The arrow I have marked is pointing to what looks like missing print. That pad should connect to ground.
Also these joints arrowed are definitely suspect. See how the solder is cracked. This is common, look for other such areas like these.
Also these joints arrowed are definitely suspect. See how the solder is cracked. This is common, look for other such areas like these.
In that first picture the missing print i may have done when soldering the large heatsink pads back. Either not sure should cause loss of continuity further down stream there. In the second photo I possibly cracked the solder when I first attempted to remove the connector (and failed).
However I think i am fighting a losing battle as I found the following which looks like damaged tracks. One is repairable but the smaller one is around some really fine tracks which I have no chance of repairing.
I may see if I can find a donor machine to swap this board out with as it seems to be a bit of a mess.
However I think i am fighting a losing battle as I found the following which looks like damaged tracks. One is repairable but the smaller one is around some really fine tracks which I have no chance of repairing.
I may see if I can find a donor machine to swap this board out with as it seems to be a bit of a mess.
Those four cracked tracks (and any others) are a super easy quick fix repair, honest. A few minutes work at most 
Use a sharp knife or small screwdriver blade to scrape the lacquer off the tracks on each side of the crack. Tin the bare copper with solder and then just lay wire (resistor leg again) across the break and solder. If you use a resistor leg bend it at 90 degrees and then you can easily hold it while soldering.
Super glue (not that this really need its) bond circuit board material really well. A drop applied to the crack after the repair is done will fuse the board together and make it super strong.
Check visually and if necessary with a meter afterwards to make sure none of the tracks are shorted to each other
Use a sharp knife or small screwdriver blade to scrape the lacquer off the tracks on each side of the crack. Tin the bare copper with solder and then just lay wire (resistor leg again) across the break and solder. If you use a resistor leg bend it at 90 degrees and then you can easily hold it while soldering.
Super glue (not that this really need its) bond circuit board material really well. A drop applied to the crack after the repair is done will fuse the board together and make it super strong.
Check visually and if necessary with a meter afterwards to make sure none of the tracks are shorted to each other
I hear you but those 2 tracks at the top of the first image are so fine I didn't fancy tackling this.
I've managed to find another player which is the same model which has a power issue, apparently it powers up but then immediately powers down. Any culprits for this sort of issue? I'm hoping to make good a player from the 2 players.
I've managed to find another player which is the same model which has a power issue, apparently it powers up but then immediately powers down. Any culprits for this sort of issue? I'm hoping to make good a player from the 2 players.
you'll soon know I've received the donor unit. When I power up there is a red "standby" illumination on the lcd. When I press the power button on the front of the unit there is the sound of what sounds like a mechanism or head movement, the display illuminates for a fraction of a second and then the unit resets - as if something shorts.
There are two ribbon cables that connect to the board, one presumably for the front display and buttons, one for the drive bay and mechanism - when these are disconnected the power cycle doesn't happen. Do i need these connected when I am doing my tests for voltage - I ask because the board has to be in the unit for the ribbon cables to be connected which makes access more difficult.
Thanks in advance.
There are two ribbon cables that connect to the board, one presumably for the front display and buttons, one for the drive bay and mechanism - when these are disconnected the power cycle doesn't happen. Do i need these connected when I am doing my tests for voltage - I ask because the board has to be in the unit for the ribbon cables to be connected which makes access more difficult.
Thanks in advance.
If those rails on the board check out ok I wonder if it might be a good idea to switch out the drive bay component, then the button/front display etc - divide and conquer approach.
Seems the unit is comprised of the psu (1), the main logic board(2), the drive bay (3) and the front display and buttons (4). Looks like there is another board below the drive bay too.
Given have the parts for two units and the issue appears to be different I might just get lucky.
Seems the unit is comprised of the psu (1), the main logic board(2), the drive bay (3) and the front display and buttons (4). Looks like there is another board below the drive bay too.
Given have the parts for two units and the issue appears to be different I might just get lucky.
It could be worth a try but I would still start by checking those rails first, It could be an easy fix as it is, maybe R105 or R106 have gone high in value and are dropping the rails when it powers up. You never know.
Board swapping is a valid approach but its also easy to to get bamboozled and end up with both not working. Remember any boards with presets on them will be setup for that particular mech and laser.
Board swapping is a valid approach but its also easy to to get bamboozled and end up with both not working. Remember any boards with presets on them will be setup for that particular mech and laser.
I took the plunge and swapped the psu and main board out from the new donor unit.
Initially it looked promising, the lcd came on when I pressed the power button and remained on. Only when I tried to eject did it reset. Now it is doing as the new donor unit was doing, powers on for a seconds, I can see and hear what sounds like the head moving a couple of times then it resets. Since that first switch on when it remained on it won't stay on.
Initially it looked promising, the lcd came on when I pressed the power button and remained on. Only when I tried to eject did it reset. Now it is doing as the new donor unit was doing, powers on for a seconds, I can see and hear what sounds like the head moving a couple of times then it resets. Since that first switch on when it remained on it won't stay on.