Hi MechanicalAnimal - here's a meaty 12" coax for which I hope to have a good new & little K-coupler which can pound. That's a 109 ounce ferrite slug. I think a LC-allpass network after the lowpass will help it blend. I hope it has some "life" with the 4" coil - -ideally a K-coupler should be capable of playing quite loud on dynamic music passages while maintaining an almost imperceptible cone travel.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Freddi,
That looks like a very interesting driver, not seen one of those since Urei/Altec made something like it (with grating in the horn).
Could you please give a bit more info on this driver?
tnx,
vac
That looks like a very interesting driver, not seen one of those since Urei/Altec made something like it (with grating in the horn).
Could you please give a bit more info on this driver?
tnx,
vac
hi vac - here's that driver - originally the seller had just a picture of Beta 12CX
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Hi guys,
'm going to build a pair of Karlson boxes and have also visited The Karlson Homepage just to get some basic info about it. The aim is to have them built for my father, he had a pair of Karlsons about 40 years ago and liked their sound very much at that time.
Now he's dreaming again about such speakers and I'd like to surprise him with new ones.
- The design would be a Karlson box designed for 12" driver (see at the link above) which is claimed to work well with 10" and 8" drivers too.
- My chosen drivers would be 2 x Dayton Audio PS220-8 8" Point Source Full-Range Neo Drivers
What do you think .. ? (40W RMS max should't be all that bad here, hmm?)
Thanks for any comments.
'm going to build a pair of Karlson boxes and have also visited The Karlson Homepage just to get some basic info about it. The aim is to have them built for my father, he had a pair of Karlsons about 40 years ago and liked their sound very much at that time.
Now he's dreaming again about such speakers and I'd like to surprise him with new ones.
- The design would be a Karlson box designed for 12" driver (see at the link above) which is claimed to work well with 10" and 8" drivers too.
- My chosen drivers would be 2 x Dayton Audio PS220-8 8" Point Source Full-Range Neo Drivers
What do you think .. ? (40W RMS max should't be all that bad here, hmm?)
Thanks for any comments.
I built these 3/4 Scale Karlson's, Many Years ago.
And a friend of mine built me a couple of 12 Inch Coaxial speakers for them.
Excellent Results.
Those 8 inch Speakers seem to lack a bit in the Bass Response and not so good on the Highs.
A 12 inch Coaxial Speaker would be better
And a friend of mine built me a couple of 12 Inch Coaxial speakers for them.
Excellent Results.
Those 8 inch Speakers seem to lack a bit in the Bass Response and not so good on the Highs.
A 12 inch Coaxial Speaker would be better
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Wow, nice boxes, retro design.. 🙂
Thx for the comment, I'll check again what's up today with decent fullrange drivers.
Thx for the comment, I'll check again what's up today with decent fullrange drivers.
Here were my original drawings for the Two 3/4 Scale Cabinets.
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Exactly what my father had in his youth... will be nice to have these built for him for Xmas 🙂 Many thanks 🙂
These were made using 3/4 Inch High Quality Particle Board.
Not the Cheap Grainy Stuff, But The Really Hard, Fine Grained Particle Board.
Don't use Plywood, it is Not Suitable.
I put these cabinets Together as a Dry Run test, Screwed but No Glue.
They worked so GOOD, I Never took them apart to Glue and Screw them.
Not the Cheap Grainy Stuff, But The Really Hard, Fine Grained Particle Board.
Don't use Plywood, it is Not Suitable.
I put these cabinets Together as a Dry Run test, Screwed but No Glue.
They worked so GOOD, I Never took them apart to Glue and Screw them.
I'll ask him again if that's what he really wants 😀 as I read here different opinions. However, father might like that oldschool-retro sound of somewhat lifted middles and less deep bass..
His old boxes are made of furniture material called "bun" (Google translate, sorry if that's not the real word for it).. and that wasn't too ideal regarding hardness, stiffness, which is an absolute must for any speaker box I think. Since then glue is also released at some points (old stuff) .. and that pretty weak bolts don't hold the walls very well. So his old boxes are going to be burnt at a grill party 😀 while I plan the new ones, now for 12" drivers.. should be okay..
Only one thing for switching from 8" to 12": he would like to use the 2 Karlsons with 2 x 25WR8 pushpull class A monoblocks. Not sure what 25W can deliver into 12" monsters 🙂
Larger Speakers do not necessarily Require More Driving Power, But in general they do have a Lower "Free Air Resonant Frequency".
This better matches the Karlson Cabinets and helps to give a More Natural Sound on Bass Notes.
My Power Amp is rated at 80 Watts RMS per channel, but I can easily drive my speakers to a reasonable volume, with much Less than 1/2 watt.
(Even a Small Table Radio will drive my cabinets to a Loud Volume.)
And if all your interested in "is More the Mid Range", than those 8 inch speakers will probably be OK
Effectively. In the preamplifier stage, there is a opamp differential amplifier who subtracts (adds algebraically with one phase reverted) both Left and Right channels. Then, this signal is feed to a 3rd channel who has independent volume (gain) control and power stage. As many low quality MP3 files give unpleasant sounds in this speaker, I mute it in those cases. 128Kb MP3's (Or better), ogg vorbis, FM's and CD's creates a good 3D sensation when listened sitting in the axis of the 3 cabinets (Mainly in live concerts), with few power and trying not to disturb neighbors.
The 12" + 4" K is located back to the listener (me) and the L and R (15" + 4") are at 90° between them in a corner of my house, and in front of me.
The 12" + 4" K is located back to the listener (me) and the L and R (15" + 4") are at 90° between them in a corner of my house, and in front of me.
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Yes, I noticed that, good idea, I like single "full range" drivers myself.
The way you drive your centre speaker, are you getting a difference signal similar to the "Hafler surround system" ? Simple Surround Sound Decoder. I've heard of R+L to help with phantom centre, but not R-L.
Ah, the cabinets have leather covered baffles too?
The way you drive your centre speaker, are you getting a difference signal similar to the "Hafler surround system" ? Simple Surround Sound Decoder. I've heard of R+L to help with phantom centre, but not R-L.
Ah, the cabinets have leather covered baffles too?