Well they are quite heavy for a film capacitor.
They feel like your holding a small roll of solid core wire or solder.
(Arrived this morning)
Film and foil. (I'll give them a go and see what happens).
Thought I might try a couple in place of the Jantzen input capacitors.
I assume the dot is the outer foil..
Regards
M. Gregg
They feel like your holding a small roll of solid core wire or solder.
(Arrived this morning)
Film and foil. (I'll give them a go and see what happens).
Thought I might try a couple in place of the Jantzen input capacitors.
I assume the dot is the outer foil..
Regards
M. Gregg
Attachments
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Looking at,
R2 input resistor on the Aikido line stage I thought I would try a few different resistors.
The Takman Rey:
Sounds warm and has good imaging (very musical making you want to tap your feet to the music), however Schrodinger's cat got the best of me so I Tried the Takman REX Carbon which goes against the grain when its an input resistor and its carbon.
The sound change was immediate, It sounded clearer and more open and as found before has less warmth than the REY MF. It initially sounded clearer and very open..but and here is the interesting bit I lost all interest in the music all very strange.
Why should that happen? I listened carefully and found that some music sounded sterile and lifeless . So I thought I will let it alone for a while and just played music, after a while it seemed to get some life back and the bass went deeper. In films the sound was quite real with metal objects having a metallic ring when dropped. However I struggled to get to grips with the music.
Comparing the REY MF it now seemed some detail was masked by the warm sound of the REY compared to the REX.
So I have fitted some tantalum (magnetic) and the sound now has the warmth of the REY MF with what sounds like midrange detail moved back into the mix. The initial impression was the REX carbon had more detail than the tantalum. So I will run it again and see what happens.
On reflection the Takman Rey is warm and has good imaging. The REX has less warmth and appears to have more detail however it can sound sterile by comparison in this position. Which is strange when carbon is noted to have a warm sound. The REX appears to not have the imaging that the REY does..read into that what you will..lack of focus but more detailed brighter sound.
Both the REX and REY seem to be fairly consistent in sound. (Wherever you use them the effect is very similar)
Regards
M. Gregg
R2 input resistor on the Aikido line stage I thought I would try a few different resistors.
The Takman Rey:
Sounds warm and has good imaging (very musical making you want to tap your feet to the music), however Schrodinger's cat got the best of me so I Tried the Takman REX Carbon which goes against the grain when its an input resistor and its carbon.
The sound change was immediate, It sounded clearer and more open and as found before has less warmth than the REY MF. It initially sounded clearer and very open..but and here is the interesting bit I lost all interest in the music
all very strange. Why should that happen? I listened carefully and found that some music sounded sterile and lifeless . So I thought I will let it alone for a while and just played music, after a while it seemed to get some life back and the bass went deeper. In films the sound was quite real with metal objects having a metallic ring when dropped. However I struggled to get to grips with the music.
Comparing the REY MF it now seemed some detail was masked by the warm sound of the REY compared to the REX.
So I have fitted some tantalum (magnetic) and the sound now has the warmth of the REY MF with what sounds like midrange detail moved back into the mix. The initial impression was the REX carbon had more detail than the tantalum. So I will run it again and see what happens.
On reflection the Takman Rey is warm and has good imaging. The REX has less warmth and appears to have more detail however it can sound sterile by comparison in this position. Which is strange when carbon is noted to have a warm sound. The REX appears to not have the imaging that the REY does..read into that what you will..lack of focus but more detailed brighter sound.
Both the REX and REY seem to be fairly consistent in sound. (Wherever you use them the effect is very similar)
Regards
M. Gregg
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OK,
The carbon REX is staying in the cathodes, However the carbon REX used as an input resistor R2 is just to noisy and after a day of playing music one REX became very noisy. So they are out as far as input resistors are concerned. (now in the bin)
The tantalum has been replaced back to the Takman REY MF. Its still the best compromise .. the tantalum sounded to dark in this position.
So Tantalum law faked pot input with REX carbon in the cathodes of the ECC88's tantalum on the output and everything else is Takman REY MF.
I must admit I thought the REX was very open sounding resistor however they haven't cracked the noise floor problem.
Still they sound good in the cathodes.
Still listening to the signal path caps on the input...Jantzen silver Z is quite good as the input cap but a little harsh.
Waiting for a while to make a decision..
Regards
M. Gregg
The carbon REX is staying in the cathodes, However the carbon REX used as an input resistor R2 is just to noisy and after a day of playing music one REX became very noisy. So they are out as far as input resistors are concerned. (now in the bin)
The tantalum has been replaced back to the Takman REY MF. Its still the best compromise .. the tantalum sounded to dark in this position.
So Tantalum law faked pot input with REX carbon in the cathodes of the ECC88's tantalum on the output and everything else is Takman REY MF.
I must admit I thought the REX was very open sounding resistor however they haven't cracked the noise floor problem.
Still they sound good in the cathodes.
Still listening to the signal path caps on the input...Jantzen silver Z is quite good as the input cap but a little harsh.
Waiting for a while to make a decision..
Regards
M. Gregg
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The input capacitor,
Is now back to the Jantzen silver Z cap.
The Jantzen space around the instruments and the depth of sound stage is much better than the Signal path capacitors but perhaps a little bright.
However its getting better with every hour the obbligato output cap seems to have calmed down. So its time to run the Jantzen silver Z for a while.
I might try some Kaisei caps in the power amp cathode bypass..
Regards
M. Gregg
Is now back to the Jantzen silver Z cap.
The Jantzen space around the instruments and the depth of sound stage is much better than the Signal path capacitors but perhaps a little bright.
However its getting better with every hour the obbligato output cap seems to have calmed down. So its time to run the Jantzen silver Z for a while.
I might try some Kaisei caps in the power amp cathode bypass..
Regards
M. Gregg
Right or not?
My speakers are all actively crossed over now; since I likely can't get replacements for the Bohlender Graebener tweeters, I've been trying my leftover from previous projects caps for tweeter protection, all either 10 or 15 uFs.
All descriptions are relative to without a protection cap's sound.
AudioCap Thetas- both brittle, and not quite revealing.
Jantzen Silver Z- transparent, yet a little shut in spacewise.
Jantzen Superior- sweet, detailed, and more open sounding.
(If the two Jantzens were a garden hose's stream through a nozzle,the silver z's seem like a narrow, forceful stream, the superiors seem like a wide spray).
Audyn Plus-hard to detect. A little bright and hard, but barely.
Solen FastCap- constricted and murky
Solen Ag- hard to detect, just a tiny reduction in dynamics.
Dayton 1%- similar to a FastCap.
Aeon-like a FastCap.
Russian mil spec polystyrene film and foil in a metal can- like there's no cap in at all.
So, the polystyrene should be the choice, right?
But I keep putting the Jantzen Superiors back in.
Maybe the Neo 8's need a little tlcapping, (flavouring)?
My speakers are all actively crossed over now; since I likely can't get replacements for the Bohlender Graebener tweeters, I've been trying my leftover from previous projects caps for tweeter protection, all either 10 or 15 uFs.
All descriptions are relative to without a protection cap's sound.
AudioCap Thetas- both brittle, and not quite revealing.
Jantzen Silver Z- transparent, yet a little shut in spacewise.
Jantzen Superior- sweet, detailed, and more open sounding.
(If the two Jantzens were a garden hose's stream through a nozzle,the silver z's seem like a narrow, forceful stream, the superiors seem like a wide spray).
Audyn Plus-hard to detect. A little bright and hard, but barely.
Solen FastCap- constricted and murky
Solen Ag- hard to detect, just a tiny reduction in dynamics.
Dayton 1%- similar to a FastCap.
Aeon-like a FastCap.
Russian mil spec polystyrene film and foil in a metal can- like there's no cap in at all.
So, the polystyrene should be the choice, right?
But I keep putting the Jantzen Superiors back in.
Maybe the Neo 8's need a little tlcapping, (flavouring)?
hello Gregg,
what the result of your trying Kaisei cap? ( this New Cap from Audionote for replace BG) ?
regards
ed
Hi Ed,
I haven't tried the Kaisei caps yet, I was going to try them but there is a rumour that Audio Note are working on another version of the BG to possibly supersede the Kaisei. So I am going to wait a while to see what happens. The Kaisei is supposed to be the same materials without the carbon in the dielectric paper.
Regards
M. Gregg
Hi Gregg,
Last weeks I'm trying replace the AN Kaisei 50uf/500 V on my power.
BUt I am not sure what my hearing and my opinion.
I do not know whether it needs a long time to breakin like BG WKZ?
which can instantly I felt there was greatness in the vocal become more vivid and level of detail.
for low tone still mess with such mixed with WKZ( Cap the last). I felt there was chaos. perhaps this is due not breakin.
Then I change by inserting them with ASC cap, and I hear a low tone of WKZ become better and not too mixed with AN Keisei 50uf.
maybe who are have experience about that to share.
thank you
regards
ed
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Old thread I know, but where is the crossover located in the SFGPC? I don't fancy going in blind!
The xovers are bolted to the speaker posts on the inside.
If you take the bottom driver out, push the bass port out from inside, pull the foams out, you will see them fixed to the back panel with nuts to the speaker post.
Changing the inductors for midrange and HF units on the crossover - for aircored inductors has a worth while effect too, but not neccessary.
The inductor for the bottom bass driver, is fine, as changing it to aircored is not practical.
while you are there, there is another cheap but worthwhile mod to do.
From eBay, buy a bag of long hair lambs wool off cuts (they are off cuts from those lambs skin rugs people have on their sofas or bedrooms) - replave all side wall foams with this material, use carpet doubleside tape to stick them to the side walls - don't need to plaster the inside, about 80% coverage is enough. There are two thick pieces of foam, one at the top another at bottom - leave those alone.
If you take the bottom driver out, push the bass port out from inside, pull the foams out, you will see them fixed to the back panel with nuts to the speaker post.
Changing the inductors for midrange and HF units on the crossover - for aircored inductors has a worth while effect too, but not neccessary.
The inductor for the bottom bass driver, is fine, as changing it to aircored is not practical.
while you are there, there is another cheap but worthwhile mod to do.
From eBay, buy a bag of long hair lambs wool off cuts (they are off cuts from those lambs skin rugs people have on their sofas or bedrooms) - replave all side wall foams with this material, use carpet doubleside tape to stick them to the side walls - don't need to plaster the inside, about 80% coverage is enough. There are two thick pieces of foam, one at the top another at bottom - leave those alone.
Crossover
I have done as you suggested, I'm thinking that you have the later home version, I have the concert's which have a passive radiator at the bottom, I removed it to find that it's braced above the crossover, making it pretty much impossible to get to the crossover, it's also braced above also which puts the tweeter in a different compartment, I wanted to put some decent binding posts on which I think may be a no no.
I have done as you suggested, I'm thinking that you have the later home version, I have the concert's which have a passive radiator at the bottom, I removed it to find that it's braced above the crossover, making it pretty much impossible to get to the crossover, it's also braced above also which puts the tweeter in a different compartment, I wanted to put some decent binding posts on which I think may be a no no.
Ken, the crossovers are behind the binding post panels on 2 boards, these had been stuck on with araldite, I got them off & found that mounting pillars on both speakers were broken, I replaced them, there are 3 small 100v philips caps on the boards 2 x 3.3uf & 1 x 2.2uf, the top board is connected to hf binding posts & has a single 3.3uf cap with a resistor. Somebody obviously took them out & damaged the rear plate, so they bodged it back. I was looking at posted images, obviously none of them correspond to the older Concerto's.Wne I do the mods I'll post some pics on here.
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