Juma's Head Amp

hi prasi

thanks that you take time for me, i don't think i have shorts or cold joints, i always clean the pcb with isoethanol and check the joints. happy when you check the picture for yourself.

i took the chance of a stady hand in the morning and removed the bc547/bc557 and took a octet of matched bc550/bc560 in. i set the pots to 2.5k and get these results:

a
offset 340 mv
r13 127mv
r17 132 mv

b
offset 341mv
r13 150mv
r17 154mv

now with the machted set the measurments for npn and pnp and for a and b amp are similar, so i think the bc550/bc560 are fine. i ordered some irf610/rf9610 and change them tomorrow. also i think the pot could be 10k. the resistors are placed like printed on the pcb, i checked them 3 times now, i don't see a mistake in soldering/placing the parts.

ps the two c3 330pf are missing in the picture, had some trouble once with the one i have and desolderd them today / ordere some new one (don't think they have a great effect on the offset ;-) )

yes, very clean work here, no doubt.
Do let us know if there is a change after replacing irf and then the pots.
yes 330pf can be left out, no problem, its just a part of i/p filter.
I really do not know if 2sk1530 can be a drop in replacements
 
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Founder of XSA-Labs
Joined 2012
Paid Member
Rumina,
Nice build. All I can suggest is trying to swap out R10 and R21 from 1k to 500R or 2k and see if it gives you more room to adjust the offset. The DC balance point is not reached and perhaps the Vgs of the MOSFETs are so mismatched that the trimmer cannot reach it. Have you measured the Vgs of the MOSFETs?

597326d1486375320-jumas-head-amp-juma-stereo.png
 
hi prasi and xrk971

thanks for your help.

the new irf610/9610 arrived and it looks much better, with a simple transistor tester i have a 2 pairs with vt 3.72volt and 3.76 volt. i checked the old the mouser one and the where 3.74 volt and 3.54 volt.

the new one behave fine and i can get a stable offset around 0 like i used to see. only thing to solve is that i can't get higher then ca 0.5 volt bias. p1 is at this point ca 2 ohm and p2 2 kohm.

should i change r10/r21 or should i try to change r2/r3 to 68ohm? was the idea to lower the r2/r3 because to much stress for the bc550/bc560?
 
hiprasi

runs stable since 1 1/2 hour so i could get good measurements:

a
bias 51.5ma
r2 59.7mv r3 51.6mv
r10 4.72v r11 4.87v

b
bias 48.6ma
r2 59.9mv r3 49.7mv
r10 4.62v t11 4.83v

this i with the pots max out , offset floats +/- 0.4 mv thats perfect

would be nice to get a bias of 80-100ma (0.8-1v), the heatsink should thake
 
With 68 ohm as per original schematic , bias can be adjusted easily above 150mA. Mine is set at 100mA because my heatsink is too small for 150mA.

Glad your DC offset is OK now.

Maybe Juma could tell you what to do for your bias but depending on your headphone 50mA bias should be sufficient.

BR,
Eric
 
Hi Eric
My thoughts exactly...
to rumina,
Sorry I forgot to mention and ask your latest resistor values.
The mentioned del V determines the current thro first stage and second stage...
first stage should be 1mA and second stage should be 4-5 mA.
If thats indeed correct, then I request Juma to post his suggestions here (hoping he still does look into this thread from time to time).
reg
Prasi
 
OMG Juma, aren't you being the arrogant ........???
I didnt expect this from you... and who are you calling lazy???? Me??, who did all the work to bring the design to the fore? or rumina/xrk/Eric ?? who is struggling with all efforts to get your design working in their particular builds...

whatever gave you the impression that I think i hired you as an employee... if you read my post in your senses, i only requested!, since you designed the circuit....
I did refer rumina to the all important post that you posted....


I am truely shocked.... that someone of such good standing (till today) in this great forum can post something like this...

Sorry people, I may be away from this thread for some time.
I am missing working with people who are helpful by nature like APEX/AKSA/Valery/ OStripper... truly genuine people

reg
Prasi
 
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Prasi, your command of English language is obviously lacking.
You made a request to me as if I was the lazy employee of yours.
Here you can learn how to make a polite request in English:
Polite Requests | Learn English

You should try some of your own advice! There are people in this forum from all countries and cultures speaking all languages. Prasi was simply asking for a little advice from someone he obviously used to hold some respect for. Obviously the respect wasn't warranted. If you had a proper grasp of the English language you should have been able to figure that out on your own.
 
Originally Posted by prasi
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

... I request Juma to...

We are all learning English as a foreign Language.

From: https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/request
Definition of request for English Language Learners
  • : to ask for (something) in a polite or formal way
  • : to ask (someone) to do something in a polite or formal way
ask, request, solicit mean to seek to obtain by making one's wants known. ask implies no more than the statement of the desire <ask a favor of a friend>. request implies greater formality and courtesy <requests the pleasure of your company>. solicit suggests a calling attention to one's wants or desires by public announcement or advertisement <a letter soliciting information>.

From: Request | Define Request at Dictionary.com

verb (used with object)
6. to ask for, especially politely or formally: He requested permission to speak.

7. to ask or beg; bid (usually followed by a clause or an infinitive): to request that he leave; to request to be excused.

8. to ask or beg (someone) to do something: He requested me to go.
 
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Originally Posted by prasi ..................
We are all learning English as a foreign Language....................
Not quite.
There are a lot of us here that are still learning English as our native language and still not getting it right !

Even though I have been talking english for >64years, this technical Forum has from time to time reminded me that I have more to learn.
 
exact andrew, life is learning till the last hour.

mouser was fast, the 68ohm resistors are soldered for r2/r3 and now everything is perfect. have a bias around 100ma and the offset is stable floating +- 0.4mv after 2h. i didn't need to change r10/r21 to get the bias down to 0v. amp gets warm but verry moderat due the big heatsink. now i have to wait for the 10k poti to arrive.

would like to thanks prasi and xrk971 for your help. sorry for my laziness didn't match the mosfet, often the adjustment range is big enough for a 2 mosfet design, learned something new. sorry prasi that you get troubled asking questions for me.

nedd to punish myselft for that:

i should not mount unmatched mosfet. i should not mount unmatched mosfet. i should not mount unmatched mosfet.
i should not mount unmatched mosfet. i should not mount unmatched mosfet. i should not mount unmatched mosfet.
i should not mount unmatched mosfet. i should not mount unmatched mosfet. i should not mount unmatched mosfet.
i should not mount unmatched mosfet. i should not mount unmatched mosfet. i should not mount unmatched mosfet.


:)
 
hi eric

i couldn't get the bias higher then 50ma with r2/r3 47ohm, with 68ohm the range is perfect for the recommend 50-100ma, can go up to ca 130ma now.

i will post my expierence with this amp as soon the pot is mounted and 100h passed (i let every amp run in when i know that the thermal stability is ok for this time to test the circuit/parts and to settle the components). i build this amp because i'm a great fan of my pass f5t, with the toshiba transitors and thoshiba mosfets he sounds great, quite similar to a ksa100 or ksa5, detailed, warm with a great flow of music and a little bit of extra bass. since i buyed a ksa100 over 20 years ago i'm addicted to this sound signature.