Ahhh.....now I understand.
Same RC pieces just wired in direct or new stuff?
I’m not opposed to changing out the whole thing if need be?
Edit.....thanks to everyone, wife is about to throttle them BB’s if I don’t get back to work!
Same RC pieces just wired in direct or new stuff?
I’m not opposed to changing out the whole thing if need be?
Edit.....thanks to everyone, wife is about to throttle them BB’s if I don’t get back to work!
Last edited:
I mean there is opportunity to experiment with the RC network actual components and I suspect these are part of the 'voicing' that you are not so keen on.Ahhh.....now I got ya. Same RC pieces just wired in direct or new stuff?
First mission is to 'revoice' the AC input, then 'revoice' the AC output.....after that we can look at the bits in between.
Dan.
It really doesn't matter that much Pavel, seriously. 🙂 OK, there is the occasional safety issue and that is immediately jumped on vigorously, the rest is harmless and doesn't make any real difference, when was the last time he posted any kind of measurement for example?I have just one advice, Bob. Do not believe much what is said. I am trying to stay polite as much as I can.
Beware of sending the amp into oscillation, it could damage it, so my last post wasn't strictly true 😉Ahhh.....now I understand.
Same RC pieces just wired in direct or new stuff?
I’m not opposed to changing out the whole thing if need be?
Edit.....thanks to everyone, wife is about to throttle them BB’s if I don’t get back to work!
I was wondering the best attachment process for soldering the wire to the binding posts?
The general idea is to eliminate the middlemen, not add more, so extra lugs are no-no.
- Good: there appears to be holes in the posts, so strip the wire, jam it in there tight, and solder.
- Better: same process plus replacing the wires with better ones.
As I suspected, it was your usual subjective listening comparison.Dan did not find a need to clarify the part of my statement you highlighted. You may assume anything you like.
I didn't say that's what Dan asked you about. I was borrowing his phrase.
Are you calling Bob brainless? 😱......the others had a brain not to do so.
Perhaps you'd be interested to finance an objective perceptual test of difference between a spot welded connection to a soldered one applicable to 95% of human population? The result could make you filthy rich. 🙂As I suspected, it was your usual subjective listening comparison....
The general idea is to eliminate the middlemen, not add more, so extra lugs are no-no.
- Good: there appears to be holes in the posts, so strip the wire, jam it in there tight, and solder.
- Better: same process plus replacing the wires with better ones.
Thanks Zung. I’m not even going to start talking about wire in public!
Been researching the zobel network at the output and is matching the R to the complete speaker DCR a good thing?
Uh huh, so why should anybody believe your statement ?.
Or perhaps you might like to divulge all about your belief systems ?.
Dan.
Pavel has all the markings of a serious engineer who investigates and underpins his conclusions with credible information gathered by applying objective scientific procedure and method.
That is why I believe him when he makes a statement. Because it coincides with my belief system that progress can only be made by thinking hard and valuating all that hard thinking by verifying the heck out of it.
Last edited:
Uh huh, so why should anybody believe your statement ?.
Or perhaps you might like to divulge all about your belief systems ?.
Ever asked yourself the same questions? I’m sure everybody would be very interested in finding out your answers.
Beware of sending the amp into oscillation, it could damage it, so my last post wasn't strictly true 😉
Not taking out the whole thing.
Changing it out (as in eliminating the board), putting back to same RC specs or different.
Last edited:
It was just a play on the old saying 'To become an expert at X takes 10,000 hours'I still have my NASA soldering standards book, along with my IPC standard. Still takes time and practice. Proper tools help.
The secret to good solder skills is good inspections! That accelerates the learning curve.
So I don't think it is so much time involved as knowing what the result should be.
I didn't think anyone wave soldered SMT in the 21st century? 6 zone reflow ovens are the norm for unleaded production boards.Wave soldered surface mount parts were picture perfect. Hand soldered not so much.
Not taking out the whole thing.
Changing it out (as in eliminating the board), putting back to same RC specs or different.
You might want to get hold of an oscilloscope if you are going to fiddle about with Zobel networks
Interesting.
I am interested to know about ovens to begin with SMD.
You don't need an oven to do SMD but if you have a large board or high density design it certainly saves time.
Most of the really cheap ovens we tried at my office were terrible. The most common one is sold as T962A from various Alibaba type vendors. It sucks, I can't recommend it for lead free soldering because it's so uneven. It might be okay with leaded paste and small boards. I have heard some of the toaster ovens with PID control mods are better than it is too.
We use a Torch T200C+ (same as T200N+ without nitrogen). I've been pretty impressed with it, it just works. Directly from China, but there were no other decent looking options in that price range. I think Eurocircuits sells one that might be okay too.
It's not super cheap, I think around $2000, but seemed to be the best thing in that price range as far as I know. The software it comes with is scary and didn't even start without crashing on my PCs, so I modified this old Python GUI someone wrote to work with it.
Torch T200N Reflow Oven
Last edited:
It was just a play on the old saying 'To become an expert at X takes 10,000 hours'
I didn't think anyone wave soldered SMT in the 21st century? 6 zone reflow ovens are the norm for unleaded production boards.
Yes, no one waves SMT boards as far as I know. SMT is all reflow except if you have lots of through hole parts mixed and you might get wave on the bottom or selective wave.
I'm not sure if the lead free solder discussion from 12 hours ago is still going, but there's this.
I dunno what constitutes proof or what, but I were a manufacturer of a consumer device with lots of safety features, for all safety critical solder joints I'd be using the same type of solder as approved for satellites and other spacecraft.
For the radio, whose only safety feature may be playing the official announcement of imminent nuclear attack, lead-free solder should be plenty good enough.
https://www.eetimes.com/document.asp?doc_id=1264373
I dunno what constitutes proof or what, but I were a manufacturer of a consumer device with lots of safety features, for all safety critical solder joints I'd be using the same type of solder as approved for satellites and other spacecraft.
For the radio, whose only safety feature may be playing the official announcement of imminent nuclear attack, lead-free solder should be plenty good enough.
https://www.eetimes.com/document.asp?doc_id=1264373
and that listening to lead whilst lead contaminated increases the biological effect of the lead in your physiology
Sort of like homeopathy?
Considering how many lead alloy solder joints we listen through in every commercial recording, it's amazing we can even walk around.
All good fortune,
Chris
All good fortune,
Chris
You don't need an oven to do SMD but if you have a large board or high density design it certainly saves time.
Most of the really cheap ovens we tried at my office were terrible. The most common one is sold as T962A from various Alibaba type vendors. It sucks, I can't recommend it for lead free soldering because it's so uneven. It might be okay with leaded paste and small boards. I have heard some of the toaster ovens with PID control mods are better than it is too.
We use a Torch T200C+ (same as T200N+ without nitrogen). I've been pretty impressed with it, it just works. Directly from China, but there were no other decent looking options in that price range. I think Eurocircuits sells one that might be okay too.
It's not super cheap, I think around $2000, but seemed to be the best thing in that price range as far as I know. The software it comes with is scary and didn't even start without crashing on my PCs, so I modified this old Python GUI someone wrote to work with it.
Torch T200N Reflow Oven
Thanks for that. Good info.

- Status
- Not open for further replies.
- Home
- Member Areas
- The Lounge
- John Curl's Blowtorch preamplifier part III