Hi.
I will post the Gerber files - these are Geoff's layout. First please let me check with another person who had some boards built. Do you plan to have them built at Olimex as I did?
http://www.olimex.com/
I will post the Gerber files - these are Geoff's layout. First please let me check with another person who had some boards built. Do you plan to have them built at Olimex as I did?
http://www.olimex.com/
Kgabetong said:Hello I´m a new member here and I have longed to build the JLH amp a long tme now,but i have not found any "readymadepcb´s" yet like that the user PaulB has,can anyone "PaulB" mail me the gerberfiles of it,because i can´t because my account are under moderation.
Try this guy:
http://www.kk-pcb.com/jlh1969.html
If you want to build the 1969 version this looks like a good choice.medum said:
The boards I used are the latest version at Geoff's website, and are much larger (100x160mm). I paid $US57 for them, including shipping.
I'm attaching the same zipfile I sent to Olimex at fastpcb@olimex.com ,
except I deleted my name and address from the readme.txt file. Make sure you add yours to this file inside the zipfile. I think they will send you a fax form when they receive the zipfile, but check their website for exact details.
Please also refer to the important information I posted on my webspace:
http://members.shaw.ca/paul.r.brown/DIY/Geoff Moss JLH/
Kgabetong,
I built mine on a single sided board ground plane. It sounds very good, 27v and with output caps as you can see. I must try and get a similar pair. I uses Toshiba 2n3055s and they seem fine, and 2n1711s, Love to compare with Mj15003s. Careful earthing and the heatsinks should give no hum problems. Mine is silent.
Good luck
http://www.sweetpeas.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/JLH-interior.jpg
Richard
I built mine on a single sided board ground plane. It sounds very good, 27v and with output caps as you can see. I must try and get a similar pair. I uses Toshiba 2n3055s and they seem fine, and 2n1711s, Love to compare with Mj15003s. Careful earthing and the heatsinks should give no hum problems. Mine is silent.
Good luck
http://www.sweetpeas.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/JLH-interior.jpg
Richard
Ex Owner of some LH`s
Hi,
i build some JLH some years ago.
With Blackgates and big transformers for a lot of money.
Someday a friend told me to test a small modified panasonic SA-Xr 55 and to connect it direct to the spdif out of a good soundcard of a PC.
i did so and since there i put my JLH downstairs..
thats the truth...
Greets,
Ralf
Hi,
i build some JLH some years ago.
With Blackgates and big transformers for a lot of money.
Someday a friend told me to test a small modified panasonic SA-Xr 55 and to connect it direct to the spdif out of a good soundcard of a PC.
i did so and since there i put my JLH downstairs..
thats the truth...
Greets,
Ralf
Ex Owner of some LH`s
Hi Ralf,
I built JLH Updated version few years ago.
1) matched 15003
2) 100,000uF X2 CLC MONO block.
3) Dual Toroid Transformer.
4) 10u Paper in Oil Cap for coupling.
Preamp
5) Aikido Tube Preamp. Mono Block
Source
6) Audiotrak Sound Card
Sound is great. Hi and Mid is very clear. Bass is tight.
I have try 300B Push-Pull Class A tube amp. Compared with JLH.
Sound is this: Hi and Mid is clear but not to sharp as JLH. And Bass is more strong and tighter than JLH. It may be 33W per channels for tube amp.
I want to hear your comment too.
Dominic Ko
Hi Ralf,
I built JLH Updated version few years ago.
1) matched 15003
2) 100,000uF X2 CLC MONO block.
3) Dual Toroid Transformer.
4) 10u Paper in Oil Cap for coupling.
Preamp
5) Aikido Tube Preamp. Mono Block
Source
6) Audiotrak Sound Card
Sound is great. Hi and Mid is very clear. Bass is tight.
I have try 300B Push-Pull Class A tube amp. Compared with JLH.
Sound is this: Hi and Mid is clear but not to sharp as JLH. And Bass is more strong and tighter than JLH. It may be 33W per channels for tube amp.
I want to hear your comment too.
Dominic Ko
Hi Ashok,
The PP 300B is Cary 300B Signature. I don't have the circuit.
I compare JLH and Cary 300B more detail and find out the following:-
1) JLH updated version is very strong bass and very clear high at the peak power without any distortion. I use 20uF paper oil cap at coupling.
2) PP 300B is good at lower power output. The bass is same strong as JLH and also clear at high. But at the peak power. There is a little distortion. The PP300B Mid-range is LITTLE LITTLE bit more better than JLH.
On the whole, JLH is average similar as PP 300B. I cannot find out difference between them.
JLH is a very very good amp with higher output approximately 30W.
Tube amp is relatively lower power 20W.
This is my reference for you.
Dominic
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angel
The PP 300B is Cary 300B Signature. I don't have the circuit.
I compare JLH and Cary 300B more detail and find out the following:-
1) JLH updated version is very strong bass and very clear high at the peak power without any distortion. I use 20uF paper oil cap at coupling.
2) PP 300B is good at lower power output. The bass is same strong as JLH and also clear at high. But at the peak power. There is a little distortion. The PP300B Mid-range is LITTLE LITTLE bit more better than JLH.
On the whole, JLH is average similar as PP 300B. I cannot find out difference between them.
JLH is a very very good amp with higher output approximately 30W.
Tube amp is relatively lower power 20W.
This is my reference for you.
Dominic
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my opinion
hi sears,
since i had build some versions of JLH update and used them for 2 years i have lots of experience with it.
today i wouldnt waste time and money for building a JLH Monster.
just take a T-AMP, or 41Hz amp and tune it - its at least as good as a JLH, but you need speakers with sufficient sensitivy...
best,
Ralf
hi sears,
since i had build some versions of JLH update and used them for 2 years i have lots of experience with it.
today i wouldnt waste time and money for building a JLH Monster.
just take a T-AMP, or 41Hz amp and tune it - its at least as good as a JLH, but you need speakers with sufficient sensitivy...
best,
Ralf
my 5 cents
I build the updated version of JLH and in comparison with my newly acquired Assemblage ST-40 (PP EL-34) I like it more! I decided to go with tubes just for fun, but if I am honest JLH has tighter bass, more highs and midrange is very very good. For me Assemblage has glorious midrange but the bus is shy and breaks apart quite quickly on some more rock guitar part. For jazz is very very good...
For me building JLH was complete opposite of tube building, not more than 25V in the circuit but the current of 2A or more, for EL34 is more than 400V and less then 100mA
Pred
I build the updated version of JLH and in comparison with my newly acquired Assemblage ST-40 (PP EL-34) I like it more! I decided to go with tubes just for fun, but if I am honest JLH has tighter bass, more highs and midrange is very very good. For me Assemblage has glorious midrange but the bus is shy and breaks apart quite quickly on some more rock guitar part. For jazz is very very good...
For me building JLH was complete opposite of tube building, not more than 25V in the circuit but the current of 2A or more, for EL34 is more than 400V and less then 100mA
Pred
After years of thinking about it I have just knocked up a Linsley Hood class A amplifier 1969 mark 1
Power supply is 30 volts and bias is 1.5 amps per channel
I shall shortly be fitting a larger mains tranformer as the present 130 va unit is running to hot for my liking ! When this is done I shall post a few pictures
The heatsink was taken from an old 2kw inverter apart from the heat I must say that I am suprised at the sound quality from only 4 transisters per channel
I am at present using a pair of 2n3055 as the output devices 35 pence each on e-bay
My system that I am using this with follows Lowther Acousta cabinets fitted with PM6C drivers.s Dual cs701 Shure M75ed Harman Karden CD player .I have many high quality transistor amplifiers but must state again at this time what a lovely little amp re sound quality
PC boards were hand drawn using the wife.s nail varnish directly on to the copper clad board
Drawing and preparing the board took about 2 hours!
Wiring theboards/ amp about 1.5 hours and making a chassis etc about 3.
All with hand tools and a battery drill.
So if you are a newby or indeed a bored oldbie try it I feel sure that you will find it most satisfying !!!
Power supply is 30 volts and bias is 1.5 amps per channel
I shall shortly be fitting a larger mains tranformer as the present 130 va unit is running to hot for my liking ! When this is done I shall post a few pictures
The heatsink was taken from an old 2kw inverter apart from the heat I must say that I am suprised at the sound quality from only 4 transisters per channel
I am at present using a pair of 2n3055 as the output devices 35 pence each on e-bay
My system that I am using this with follows Lowther Acousta cabinets fitted with PM6C drivers.s Dual cs701 Shure M75ed Harman Karden CD player .I have many high quality transistor amplifiers but must state again at this time what a lovely little amp re sound quality
PC boards were hand drawn using the wife.s nail varnish directly on to the copper clad board
Drawing and preparing the board took about 2 hours!
Wiring theboards/ amp about 1.5 hours and making a chassis etc about 3.
All with hand tools and a battery drill.
So if you are a newby or indeed a bored oldbie try it I feel sure that you will find it most satisfying !!!
Ease off your wife's cosmetics... A sharpie, or normal black marker will work just as well.
An easy way of makeing handdrawn boards look nicer is to print the layout on a sheet of paper, tape the page to the board, then drill all the holes... remove the page, and play connect the dots...
Will also keep proper spaceing for components.
And then after tinning the traces, give the component side a nice coat of paint from a can... darker colours like black tend to work the best... (hard to get dirty while soldering)
An easy way of makeing handdrawn boards look nicer is to print the layout on a sheet of paper, tape the page to the board, then drill all the holes... remove the page, and play connect the dots...
Will also keep proper spaceing for components.
And then after tinning the traces, give the component side a nice coat of paint from a can... darker colours like black tend to work the best... (hard to get dirty while soldering)
Hi JLH diyers,
One more thing I have studied about JLH amp is this, you need to have a good pre-amp to drive the JLH.
I have compared with a passive pre-amp (24-stage resister-ladder network) with Aikido. Aikido gives a GOOD sound when you listen to higher output power.
The pair speakers are also better used sensitive one. It will give you a TIGHT bass. The Mid and High are nearly NO difference between tube amp.
Best regards
Dominic Ko
One more thing I have studied about JLH amp is this, you need to have a good pre-amp to drive the JLH.
I have compared with a passive pre-amp (24-stage resister-ladder network) with Aikido. Aikido gives a GOOD sound when you listen to higher output power.
The pair speakers are also better used sensitive one. It will give you a TIGHT bass. The Mid and High are nearly NO difference between tube amp.
Best regards
Dominic Ko