Thanks for asking.
By "clean" I mean with low harmonic distortion. Below a certain wavelength directly related to the mouth size I hear distortion and see it in measurements. For that reason I like to cross at least an octave above that point, for the sake of "cleanliness." Hearing the distortion in music isn't nearly as easy as with sweeps, but it's there, for sure.
That has certainly been my experience. If the midrange horn will play up to 14KHz or better, then adding a tweeter sounds fake. It does add air and sparkle, but those don't sound natural to me. Cool, Hi-Fi, bit not what I hear in natural sounds.
most TAD and Rey audio users i know.., they spend years to find a matching tweeters..adding horn...ribbon..etc....crossovers..., fun process but.. does not sound as good as the original 2 ways.., as u said , it is more hifi, but seem to mess up soem sense of atmosphere
so are u implying , if adding a tweeter..or having a 3ways systems, i should try to start the tweeter from lower than 14Hz... lt;s say...8K hz?
i can also seeing the benefit of a mid range from carry upto 12K..hz..or a bit more..as majority of music passage is handle by one drivers.... worry free for tonal match..etc..
a lot to learn in this area
and at this moment, i prefer E JMLC horn
so are u implying , if adding a tweeter..or having a 3ways systems, i should try to start the tweeter from lower than 14Hz... lt;s say...8K hz?
i can also seeing the benefit of a mid range from carry upto 12K..hz..or a bit more..as majority of music passage is handle by one drivers.... worry free for tonal match..etc..
a lot to learn in this area
and at this moment, i prefer E JMLC horn
One of my buddy build a 15a
wondering anything have a 3D drawing for E jmlc 300 which can be shared?, i am using sketchup , want to put that in and find tune my design
merry Christmas...haha from Hong kong
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oh...can i have the new link for this PDF? ,thx. i am reading.pages 91 to 100, about the coaxial BMS...... ,seem that i cannot be lazy and need to work for a proper 3 ways...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
i like it.., i almost read all the pages here, i suppose i should give up the idea of having the BMS coaxial
I heard that Sony Horn once...long time ago, which was MTM configured , but cannot comment too much as it was not set up properly at all in the room
i also read from AA, Jean made a few comments about Radian Vs 4001
Hello folks
have ordered a pair of JMLC 200T from poland to test with JBL 2446J with truextent and TAD4001
a friend hipasses a GPA288 alinico@350 12db octave in that huge horn and lowpasses@7K to a Fostex TA500mkII
is there any problem hipassing the TAD equally far down in the same horn or am I gambling?
trying this horn as substitute for Avantgarde Trio satellites together with 4x15 custom hi-eff basstowers from BD Design in The Netherlands
the basstowers are build in plywood with lowpassing in lower midrange in mind and I thought I´d might get away with 350-400 in the LC horn and if TAD works it measures perfect to 20K and I´d avoid supertweeter
I know the big horn beams in the upper frequencies, but will it be any worse than the Trio´s kugelwellenprofiles?
I´m pretty sure the JBL will be OK but the stakes are higher with the TAD diaphragm prices
best
Leif
Norway
have ordered a pair of JMLC 200T from poland to test with JBL 2446J with truextent and TAD4001
a friend hipasses a GPA288 alinico@350 12db octave in that huge horn and lowpasses@7K to a Fostex TA500mkII
is there any problem hipassing the TAD equally far down in the same horn or am I gambling?
trying this horn as substitute for Avantgarde Trio satellites together with 4x15 custom hi-eff basstowers from BD Design in The Netherlands
the basstowers are build in plywood with lowpassing in lower midrange in mind and I thought I´d might get away with 350-400 in the LC horn and if TAD works it measures perfect to 20K and I´d avoid supertweeter
I know the big horn beams in the upper frequencies, but will it be any worse than the Trio´s kugelwellenprofiles?
I´m pretty sure the JBL will be OK but the stakes are higher with the TAD diaphragm prices
best
Leif
Norway
sorry Leif, no input on your question. Intrigued instead on your friends decision to hipass GPA288("H", I suppose then) such low. From those few graphs one can find on them, it has quite low level already by itself there. Actually rolling down from 500Hz pretty steep. Is there major overlap from bass region used? What yours/friends listening impressions would be?
Ilmar
T Coefficient for Le Cléac'h "gramophone-style" horn
Does anyone have any thoughts on the T coefficient for a 115 Hz horn using the "gramophone-style" JMLC horn spreadsheet? Jean-Michael Le Cléac'h posted about potential advantages of a lower T for larger horns, but what about an upperbass horn? I'd want to keep it horn-loaded as much as possible down to cutoff. I'm planning to use a Fane Studio 8M driving into a 4" throat.
Does anyone have any thoughts on the T coefficient for a 115 Hz horn using the "gramophone-style" JMLC horn spreadsheet? Jean-Michael Le Cléac'h posted about potential advantages of a lower T for larger horns, but what about an upperbass horn? I'd want to keep it horn-loaded as much as possible down to cutoff. I'm planning to use a Fane Studio 8M driving into a 4" throat.
Joining edges of wood gramophone-style horns
I'm planning to build a gramophone-style horn out of bent wood (baltic birch or bending poplar ply) based on JMLC's spreadsheet. Does anyone have any creative ideas about joining wood edges of each petal? The only way I thought of doing it feasibly and tightly is by routing one side of each petal with a roundover bit so it ends up convex arch and the other side of each petal as a concave shape with the same radius. Does anyone have any other creative ideas about joining the edges of these complex shapes?
I'm planning to build a gramophone-style horn out of bent wood (baltic birch or bending poplar ply) based on JMLC's spreadsheet. Does anyone have any creative ideas about joining wood edges of each petal? The only way I thought of doing it feasibly and tightly is by routing one side of each petal with a roundover bit so it ends up convex arch and the other side of each petal as a concave shape with the same radius. Does anyone have any other creative ideas about joining the edges of these complex shapes?
A high tack masking tape on one side of adjacent pieces will act as a hinge. You tape the exterior of the joint in it's final position. Open it up and apply glue to the joint. Keep on doing that as you layup the entire object and you is done. The tape acts like a hinge. On your particular bent form you may have to pre-glue and then tape a cross in a few locations to hold it in place.
Building Petal horns
That's an option for gluing up the petals, but the petal horns still have to be mitred or joined physically. The edges can't be cut straight or they won't fit together without gaps...especially if the petals are more than a few mm thick as I'm planning.
That's an option for gluing up the petals, but the petal horns still have to be mitred or joined physically. The edges can't be cut straight or they won't fit together without gaps...especially if the petals are more than a few mm thick as I'm planning.
Well yes there is a way to do what you want. You need a very short router table, or better yet a jig fastened to your router so the table size is small enough to do the following.
You need a predetermined cut angle on the edges of each petal. For safety sake you need a mostly covered router bit. So a short fence that straddles both sides of the bit. An angles sled set at the predetermined angle short enough that you can run the entire length of your petal. It will probably have to have a small flat close to the cutter and rounded down on the left and right of the cutter. Think of a small island built up on the base of your router.
If you can visualize this great. If you need more help send me a P.M.
How do I know how to do this?
Among other things, I have been a cabinet maker for over 25 years. And only nine kitchens. I did the fancy stuff.
You need a predetermined cut angle on the edges of each petal. For safety sake you need a mostly covered router bit. So a short fence that straddles both sides of the bit. An angles sled set at the predetermined angle short enough that you can run the entire length of your petal. It will probably have to have a small flat close to the cutter and rounded down on the left and right of the cutter. Think of a small island built up on the base of your router.
If you can visualize this great. If you need more help send me a P.M.
How do I know how to do this?
Among other things, I have been a cabinet maker for over 25 years. And only nine kitchens. I did the fancy stuff.
Technically the angle on the edge of the part changes constantly along its length. It's a constant angle looking at the front of the horn when the part is curved as it will be when assembled, so if you cut it at a constant angle when flat it will be wrong. However it might be close enough. Honestly it's probably easiest to make a thin part that you don't chamfer and then build up material on the outside of the horn.
Yes the included angle changes. The angle that is used for splitting the horn into petals should remain the same. That is the key to making this work. But it is possible to create a jig that will allow enough of a manipulation in the secondary reference flat to keep things going the way you want.
But there is a really simple reason why these horns are made of paper or card board. It is way easier. Consider laying it up in paper and then coating it with epoxy. Best of both worlds.
But there is a really simple reason why these horns are made of paper or card board. It is way easier. Consider laying it up in paper and then coating it with epoxy. Best of both worlds.