Yes bringing the 800 / 3K down a bit would help, as would bringing up the 5k to 12k up a bit to get a flatter response.
I'd try that with the ALK filter.
I'm assuming you are using subwoofers so maybe try raising the xo point between the subs / FH1's to around 140Hz so the highpass pulls the 100/200Hz hump down a bit. Might need to keep the subs xo lower to make it work acoustically.
Cheers,
Rob.
I'd try that with the ALK filter.
I'm assuming you are using subwoofers so maybe try raising the xo point between the subs / FH1's to around 140Hz so the highpass pulls the 100/200Hz hump down a bit. Might need to keep the subs xo lower to make it work acoustically.
Cheers,
Rob.
Well the ALK low pass is at least an improvement. It's better suited to that box. I don't think that Renkus compression driver plays down low enough to match the woofer with the ALK but maybe it could work. The Hiraga crossover you drew is overlapping the two sections too much. Also, the 5 ohm resistor is pulling the impedance way done on the HF section. Maybe not best for your SET? It shapes the rolloff of the high pass filter, but I'm not sure you need it.
I'll look at it some more.
I'll look at it some more.
Lol! Just realised Freddi posted that response on this very thread post #16 😀 It's been a very tough year 😱 ......
I haven't even thought about the integration of the subs yet. That sounds like a good idea. I have a pair of identical passive subs that I was intending on using with these speakers that could be run in stereo with one next to each speaker. I have a Behringer CX3400 that I could use to create the filter for the subs, although I wouldn't want to pass the entire signal through the Behringer because it is noisy.
I have one of the crossovers on the bench right now. I'll desolder a few things and put in some clip leads and then do some experiments and repost.
I tried a bunch of different crossover slopes, including the ALK, and a few different versions of unsymmetrical crossovers, but none measure substantially better than the original Hiraga one. Some look better in some ways, but worse in others. I did some mono listening comparisons with the ALK LF/Hiraga HF, and the all Hiraga, and I think I liked the ALK/Hiraga better, but I really need to breadboard both channels and listen in stereo to decide which I prefer. The ALK/Hiraga seemed to sound cleaner in mono.
I could fill a huge book with what I don't know about crossovers, but this process has been interesting. I was hoping to use an electronic crossover on this project, which would have been much easier, but my Behringer CX-3400 is far too noisy. I'll probably end up using it as a glorified sub crossover. I also bought a used XTA DP200 DSP/Crossover a little while back in the hope that it would be quieter, but while better, it is also too noisy. Both crossovers have balanced inputs and outputs and everything I own is not balanced. Perhaps this is part of my noise problem? All the passive crossovers add absolutely no noise...
I could fill a huge book with what I don't know about crossovers, but this process has been interesting. I was hoping to use an electronic crossover on this project, which would have been much easier, but my Behringer CX-3400 is far too noisy. I'll probably end up using it as a glorified sub crossover. I also bought a used XTA DP200 DSP/Crossover a little while back in the hope that it would be quieter, but while better, it is also too noisy. Both crossovers have balanced inputs and outputs and everything I own is not balanced. Perhaps this is part of my noise problem? All the passive crossovers add absolutely no noise...
Last edited:
Thanks for trying things out. I'll put in some time today looking for possible routes to success. That Peavy W bin is gonna make it hard!
If you are using pro crossovers, you are likely to get noise at consumer line levels. This is a known problem with the Behringer DCX2496 and DEQ2496. All is quiet if the analog circuits are replaced or adapted to consumer line level.
If you are using pro crossovers, you are likely to get noise at consumer line levels. This is a known problem with the Behringer DCX2496 and DEQ2496. All is quiet if the analog circuits are replaced or adapted to consumer line level.
I looked up the XTA and the CX-3400. Typical of pro units they are meant for high line levels. Both are meant for levels up to 21-22dBu, or almost 9 volts. Running at typical consumer levels of about 1V you're going to get noise, unfortunately.
Aphex 124A 10/4 Audio Level Interface Model | eBay
Gonna be cheaper to grab one of these. I use one w/pro xo and they're dead silent.
Gonna be cheaper to grab one of these. I use one w/pro xo and they're dead silent.
Thanks! I had a quick look at it online. Will this unit solve my noise problem on my electronic crossovers?
I ordered one. I’ll make use of it for my subs if it doesn’t work out. Thanks for the link! It’s a great price.
The unit arrived yesterday and I played with it last night. I can get everything quite enough, although not as completely quiet as with the passive XOs. I use a laptop feeding digital files to a DAC, and then to the 124A followed by the XTA DP200, and then to the two amps that power the HF and LF sections of my speakers. While this works, the HF has to have its volume pot nearly off in order for their to be very little noise out of the HF section. I think that I have too much gain in the current HF amp. I will try a different one that has less gain for starters. With my current setup, I really don't need a volume pot, and low gain driver tubes are better than high gain.
Should I put the signal through the 124A to go from home to pro levels, and then put it back through the 124A to take it from pro to home levels again to feed the amps? The 124A will let me put one of the two output signals from the crossover back through it to go from pro to home levels. I can do this for the HF and leave the LF as is since that doesn't seem to be causing any noise.
No. The Aphex unit will only work one way at a time. You can't boost and cut levels concurrently.
The two recessed knobs @ front will be straight up for +4dBu
You can use a known signal level pink noise to set the Aphex more exactly as well.
eg. Mute the speakers. You'll be using a pink noise signal of -12db on laptop (set and leave laptop output @ 100% .. find -12db pink noise online) set the input level on your XTA to -12db. Start the pink noise signal and adjust the recessed gain knobs on the Aphex to match -12db level (L&R) w/meter reading if available on the XTA.
All done.
The two recessed knobs @ front will be straight up for +4dBu
You can use a known signal level pink noise to set the Aphex more exactly as well.
eg. Mute the speakers. You'll be using a pink noise signal of -12db on laptop (set and leave laptop output @ 100% .. find -12db pink noise online) set the input level on your XTA to -12db. Start the pink noise signal and adjust the recessed gain knobs on the Aphex to match -12db level (L&R) w/meter reading if available on the XTA.
All done.
EDIT: Didn't see post above.
You can certainly try that, but turning down the treble amp should be just as good or better. Too much amplifier gain is often a problem with high efficiency systems. On my A5 horn, the voltage coming from the amp was usually lower than voltage from the DAC.
So before running back thru the 124A try just turning down the amp, or use a lower gain amp.
You can certainly try that, but turning down the treble amp should be just as good or better. Too much amplifier gain is often a problem with high efficiency systems. On my A5 horn, the voltage coming from the amp was usually lower than voltage from the DAC.
So before running back thru the 124A try just turning down the amp, or use a lower gain amp.
Thanks. I’ll give it a go as per your instructions. I contacted Aphex about the 124A operating in both directions, and they said that it does, although I haven’t tried that out myself yet.
Last edited:
I'm just now reading the XTA DP200 manual. Should I assume you have as well tizman? If you have, you're aware that the XTA unit can be adjusted itself for input gain requirements. What is the unit set at now?
puppet: When I bought the XTA DP200 a few years back, I thought I was buying just a crossover, but it is much more than that. I did read the manual, but it was some time ago. I figured out that The XTA DP200 will do what the 124A does, minus adapting XLR to RCA, while I was playing with them both. I have since taken out the 124A, and will use it elsewhere. Using just the XTA leaves me in a similar position with respect to noise. I will go through the procedure you suggested shortly and report back. Thanks for your help!
Please see the attached screen shot from the Aphex support folks in Canada. I will try to use both input/output sets myself once I take delivery of the cables I need in order to do so.
