Good that you bought them, before they run out.
I would just build two of the boxes shown, you'll have more flexibility, E.g. stack them together, or set them in different parts of the room. I like the 9"width.
I'll use 1/2", found a sheet of Medex, one grade above MDF.
I would just build two of the boxes shown, you'll have more flexibility, E.g. stack them together, or set them in different parts of the room. I like the 9"width.
I'll use 1/2", found a sheet of Medex, one grade above MDF.
I Just bought 4 of these because of this thread, I would love to see someone design a TH for these, I saw the pictures posted of one using 2 of these, but maybe we can designate a thread for this on its own... The only TH I have built is JBells ss15, I have 4 of them, I would love to make some of these for smaller home parties.
Try neo's tapped horn, inquiring minds want to know! Does it need a high pass? I haven't gotten around to trying a TH yet... but it's too cold to spend time making sawdust in the garage up here.
dimension needed
Hi there ND: Can you supply the dimension for the "free" end of the mid board (the one directly behind the drivers) and also the mouth opening? You have supplied other dimensions from the bottom of the pictoral drawing or a string from the bottom (assuming 1/2" material?) Regards...Michael
Almost forgot...
Hi there ND: Can you supply the dimension for the "free" end of the mid board (the one directly behind the drivers) and also the mouth opening? You have supplied other dimensions from the bottom of the pictoral drawing or a string from the bottom (assuming 1/2" material?) Regards...Michael
Generally speaking I do use HPF, but this is not a very high power design in the first place so the suspension of the driver may be robust enough protection for those without throttle jockey syndrome.😀Try neo's tapped horn, inquiring minds want to know! Does it need a high pass? I haven't gotten around to trying a TH yet... but it's too cold to spend time making sawdust in the garage up here.
Hi Michael,Hi there ND: Can you supply the dimension for the "free" end of the mid board (the one directly behind the drivers) and also the mouth opening? You have supplied other dimensions from the bottom of the pictoral drawing or a string from the bottom (assuming 1/2" material?) Regards...Michael
All joints with the exception of the one at the mouth are 90°. The mouth opening is ~3", just a hair under because of the angle. I think you are asking about the 14 7/8" board, it is 9.75" from the bottom(inside) of the enclosure, all internal boards are 8" wide. If I am home tonight I will redraw the enclosure and cut sheet for an easier assembly and glue up. In doing this I will make the top and bottom the only 9" wide pieces.
Go for it, nothing is changing except how it goes together.
It will be late before I get home and redraw the plans.
It will be late before I get home and redraw the plans.
How late is late?...haha, no pressure; this is going to be fun.
Go for it, nothing is changing except how it goes together.
It will be late before I get home and redraw the plans.
How late is late?...haha, no pressure; this is going to be fun.
Here's a preview, It'll be later tonight before I'm done, I've got to run an errand.
Attachments
I don't think this is a good idea as the driver would be shoved right up against the top panel and it would create an obstruction in the path.Is there any reason not to reverse one driver (+ wiring), for some distortion cancelling?
We'll find out soon ((O;
Thank you Neo, it looks like that was good deal of work.
I placed an order for extra drivers, will have more than a couple of boxes to compare.
Thank you Neo, it looks like that was good deal of work.
I placed an order for extra drivers, will have more than a couple of boxes to compare.
OK here it is, weirgen 0.2 😀
This thing better be good 😱
Yikes....I'm taking off tomorrow!! Pieces are cut, starting tonight.
Power wire right out the back?
Round over the edges inside?
Power wire right out the back?
Round over the edges inside?
Yikes....I'm taking off tomorrow!! Pieces are cut, starting tonight.
Power wire right out the back?
Round over the edges inside?
- I wouldn't take off work, however YMMV.
- I'd probably come out with the wires below the mouth as it should always be accessible. I'd use some cheesy spring terminals and a BO$E logo in Sharpie right there. 😀
- The mouth is the only spot that might potentially benefit, I'd skip on the rounds at least until I'd tested. You should not have velocity problems with the internal path like with the small ports.
- PE gave the 299-114 the nod as a "Tough little driver for compact subs", hopefully they know what they are talking about. 😀
The bass is very strong with the PR box, I thought something was wrong with the bass when I hooked up the Fonkens........I had to reverse the leads to the sub.
The 10" PR is being kicked around with some good energy.
PE was telling the truth.
The 10" PR is being kicked around with some good energy.
PE was telling the truth.
NEO, If B1 sits behind S4, it needs to be 1/2" shorter to keep the 3-11/16" in the back.
Cough Cough.
Cough Cough.
Possibly/likely, but after Doug gets a good listen to it.Hey Neo,
Any chance you'll share the hornresp data😛
I won't comment... promise
later,
revb
I'm interested in how the drivers hold up when not loaded by the port when you guys are pushing them hard. From your previous posts I'm guessing/hoping you run the drivers mono from an LFE/sub out, stereo bass would KILL them obviously.The bass is very strong with the PR box, I thought something was wrong with the bass when I hooked up the Fonkens........I had to reverse the leads to the sub.
The 10" PR is being kicked around with some good energy.
PE was telling the truth.
Thanks for(attempting😛) double checking the numbers, really. 🙂NEO, If B1 sits behind S4, it needs to be 1/2" shorter to keep the 3-11/16" in the back.
Cough Cough.
If you look at the first cut sheet you should see the difference has been adjusted for already.
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