Is it worth invest in expensive cap, inductor and resistors in notch filter

That is my experience but I would like to mentioned when you have very transparent system than every changing in chain is audible.
Transparent, I prefer to call it with a cleaner, less distortion and straighter frequency curve. Can be perceived as more transparent.
If you also have an amplifier with separate transformers for each channel, you are almost at home. Of course, the sound source must be in this level as well.
 
so how does one go about proving " when you have very transparent system than every changing in chain is audible "

measurements?? otherwise it's merely conformation bias on your part.
My ears are the best measurement device, if you cant stop listen music and want more and more than system is good, if after few minute you want stop playing music that is not ok. I prefer simple system full range driver. My system is very simple and transparent with harmonic richness, natural timbre.
Source RPI4 (RopieeXL - Tidal)->DDC (SINGXER SU-6 ) AES/EBU (XLO signature 4.1B) digital output to DAC (Audiomat Tempo 2.6 class A output) -> PASSIVE TVC PREAMP (Music First Classic) -> Single ended pure A class mono block (Valvet E1 only 10 W) -> Speakers ( Satori with notch filter and MAOP10 without anything pure wire). Building my system last 7 years and know finally satisfied.
 
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Same here. I cant stop listing. It is important.
I have tried many drivers. Perhaps 4" is best for midrange. But 6" can give more bass.
Only you have to compare and decide what sounds best. We all have different tastes. So it's impossible to say which ones are best for you.
 
After changed Monacor cap, coils with Litz Wire Wax Coil + Superior Z-Cap + bypass Audyn true cooper cap + Resistor Ty-Ohm SUPERES (same value like before with Monacor) difference in sound is night and day, it is really worth to invest in better coil, cap and resistor.
This, the opening post and the posts between makes the whole thread look like a joke. The product names pushing it over the edge😊.
The experiment and the dramatic changes seems strong enough to convince a crowd of skeptics in a sighted ab-test.
Otherwise Im not qualified to judge.
Cheers!
 
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I used to use steel screw terminal blocks to connect my test prototype crossover (Wago connectors) to speaker cables. I once measured the speaker distortion and a high 3rd harmonic peak appeared. I swapped to all Wago connectors and the distortion disappeared. I have used Wago connectors for many prototypes and the final soldered crossover sounds and measures the same. Wago uses tinned copper conductor bars and a steel spring to provide the pressure clamp. The conduction is through tinned copper, which might be the reason they don’t contribute to the distortion.
 
My ears are the best measurement device, if you cant stop listen music and want more and more than system is good, if after few minute you want stop playing music that is not ok. I prefer simple system full range driver. My system is very simple and transparent with harmonic richness, natural timbre.
Source RPI4 (RopieeXL - Tidal)->DDC (SINGXER SU-6 ) AES/EBU (XLO signature 4.1B) digital output to DAC (Audiomat Tempo 2.6 class A output) -> PASSIVE TVC PREAMP (Music First Classic) -> Single ended pure A class mono block (Valvet E1 only 10 W) -> Speakers ( Satori with notch filter and MAOP10 without anything pure wire). Building my system last 7 years and know finally satisfied.
Satori MW16PNW-4 or MOAP 10? Which do you like better?