Double wrap to prevent side slipping. Of course you can use nylon ropes or any suitable material.
Is there anyone here who has actually used these 'rope' techniques to mount their horns? Pics? Data? I haven't seen anyone do this commercially. Not even in the most bizarre setups. All this 'rope' talk makes me think of a snipe hunt.
The 'rope' idea may be more suited to mounting a LP record turntable.
The 'rope' idea may be more suited to mounting a LP record turntable.
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This won't work, as is. The horn is an expanding line. Something will have to be done to keep the rope wrapping around the wider part of the line, from rolling back towards the more slender portion.
I would drill a hole, large enough to fit the rope through, on these baffle like back sides of the "roll off"
The problem is, where is the horn rigged to??? A base that will sit on top of the mid woofer?? A base made out of what?
An idea I had for a Bed of rope, using pipe n fixture as a frame that extruded from the top of the midbass cab.
imaginary top down view...the black would be the rope, suspended across the width of the midbass cabinet, onto the pipes or whatever base rigidly fastened to the top of the cabinet.
I would drill a hole, large enough to fit the rope through, on these baffle like back sides of the "roll off"
The problem is, where is the horn rigged to??? A base that will sit on top of the mid woofer?? A base made out of what?
An idea I had for a Bed of rope, using pipe n fixture as a frame that extruded from the top of the midbass cab.
imaginary top down view...the black would be the rope, suspended across the width of the midbass cabinet, onto the pipes or whatever base rigidly fastened to the top of the cabinet.
This may not directly apply to the scenario of mounting only a horn itself, but "Soft-mounting" a driver isn't always desirable, specifically an LF or midbass driver. Its better to decouple mid frequencies on up.
For a full range speaker, you want to terminate the driver to sufficient mass so that it otherwise avoids reacting unfavorably with the lack of its own mass. For example, those fancy foam wedges sold to isolate and decouple monitors from the surface they sit on, ruin low level detail in the bass and lower mids. Yes, they help with avoiding vibration transmission through a mixing desk (big issue as well with pre-arrival of vibration smearing direct radiated audio), but now the speaker flops around without a coupled mass. Adding more mass under the monitors would be a better sounding solution. For floor standing full range monitors this always sounds better.
The type of rope used to suspend large horns and its diameter makes a difference. I've used bungee cord, paracord and nylon - the paracord sounds best to me.
For a full range speaker, you want to terminate the driver to sufficient mass so that it otherwise avoids reacting unfavorably with the lack of its own mass. For example, those fancy foam wedges sold to isolate and decouple monitors from the surface they sit on, ruin low level detail in the bass and lower mids. Yes, they help with avoiding vibration transmission through a mixing desk (big issue as well with pre-arrival of vibration smearing direct radiated audio), but now the speaker flops around without a coupled mass. Adding more mass under the monitors would be a better sounding solution. For floor standing full range monitors this always sounds better.
The type of rope used to suspend large horns and its diameter makes a difference. I've used bungee cord, paracord and nylon - the paracord sounds best to me.
camplo ... from what are you going to hang these if by rope? ... floor joists or? I asked because mounting them is going to be fiddly. You're going to need to have their exact position determined ... then plumb up to the mounting fixture to position that (mount point on horn to mount point on hanging fixture).. exact and precise. If you really can't do that, just mount them on to of the mid enclosure and be done with it.
Yea, floor or ceiling joists, why not? And positioning them in "exactly" the right position seems like a good idea to me.
can't resist 😛
from https://www.amazon.com/Modern-physical-laboratory-practice-Strong/dp/B0007JL7RY , ch. VIII
from https://www.amazon.com/Modern-physical-laboratory-practice-Strong/dp/B0007JL7RY , ch. VIII
I'll bet a guy could fabricate a mount from something like this:
https://plantech.com/flanged-urethane-wheels/
and use the groove to hold the horn. Attachment to mid enclosure via cradle with an axle. Acting like a wheel you've got front to back movement ... just need to include a "wheel lock".
Heck a real spend thrift could probably make a couple sets of regular rubber casters work, too. (horn rides the inverted caster tires)
https://plantech.com/flanged-urethane-wheels/
and use the groove to hold the horn. Attachment to mid enclosure via cradle with an axle. Acting like a wheel you've got front to back movement ... just need to include a "wheel lock".
Heck a real spend thrift could probably make a couple sets of regular rubber casters work, too. (horn rides the inverted caster tires)
Long steel rods give a low frequency of natural vibrations, and basins of oil dampen vibrations. A simpler design - just rods from the ceiling to the platform with the device. J. Strong also advises to study the literature on seismographs.
My take on points like this is that they might reduce the vibration transmission slightly due to the lower contact area, but then again, there is much more force on this smaller area than with a larger area.
If I wanted to reduce transmission from a device through to the ground, I would use as large a surface area as possible and use vibration damping mats in layers. I did this with my table saw (which is granite and very heavy.) It worked well.
But honestly, this problem is not really that serious if the "floor" is concrete, like mine is. There's not going to be much vibration transmission even if the speakers are directly on the floor.
Now, if they were not on a very solid floor, like a wood floor, I would certainly isolate them on large matts made for this purpose.
Structural vibrations can be very insidious since sound can move through solid objects over great distances almost unimpeded - not like sound in air. The single most difficult thing to do in quieting down a car is to reduce the structural vibrations. My current Honda (who excel at these kinds of problems) uses active engine mounts for the engine and tuned dampers on each wheel for road noise. I have never driven a quieter car. Thanks Honda!
PS. I am sure that other companies do the same, but not at Honda's price point!
The horn hardware mounted to a 3/4" thick square that sits on a thin layer of damping material, both the same size as the midbox top.
I did order some hardware to
Investigate but I could always send it back... I am interested in the "bed of ropes" concept if rope will hedge the bet on lowering transmission... it could look cool too, whether paracord, hemp, or nylon etc...
The only thing is, just like @AllenB was concerned about, in suspension, what about the movement thats possible on the axi's that are not fixed...in particular, back n forth.
There is a good about of weight there...I think, all is well. But if it could move, it would move, and burr the transient response.
I did order some hardware to
Investigate but I could always send it back... I am interested in the "bed of ropes" concept if rope will hedge the bet on lowering transmission... it could look cool too, whether paracord, hemp, or nylon etc...
The only thing is, just like @AllenB was concerned about, in suspension, what about the movement thats possible on the axi's that are not fixed...in particular, back n forth.
There is a good about of weight there...I think, all is well. But if it could move, it would move, and burr the transient response.
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That is what is called passive/adaptive: it changes the parameters of the mount, it is not fully active. Fully active is when we inject a signal via a loudspeaker driver-like electronic actuator, a shaker if you will. This device sense those vibrations that get through the mount and injects an anti-signal to cancel them.
Given just the drawing, this mount could be full active, it depends on the bandwidth of the actuator, but the statement "The ACM changes the stiffness of the mount" leads me to believe that it is not fully active.
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