and some are just self aggrandizing know it all's....and then there others who fell it's there place to answer for others...if we can't ask questions and challenge the wisdom of others how can learn or move forward?
I guess you’re going to have to try a bit harder, ease up on the entitlement, and show some respect to one of the grandees on the forum first.
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Thanks again GM. Your knowledge, experience, and wisdom, is helping me make some decisions for construction of CD/Horn tops in my project. I’ve been overthinking it.
Project is modular, with separate bass boxes. Bass boxes are built. All drivers and horns are bought. Plywood is bought – Baltic Birch is not what it used to be, but still ok. I’ve been testing with the open CD/horns softly laid on top of the bass boxes. I need to wait for warmer weather to cut more wood. Regards…
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You're welcome! Yeah, been very fortunate to have had the benefit of being taught by some of the pioneers that left precious little to 'invent' and/or be swayed by the intentionally misleading 'knowledge' that the hucksters have been continuously 'flooding' all the information services, markets for as long as I've been on the WWW.
This is actually a very good solution, except maybe for the leather.
I hung almost all of my HVAC equipment from ropes. The ropes are normal nylon ropes like you might find on a boat - lots of sizes available. The weave does an amazing job of dissipating any vibrations yielding a transmission of almost zero (if the lines are long enough but a foot or two is usually more than enough.) The ceiling in my HT is done this way - its 3/4" plywood boards hung on "strings."
as this is a clear violation of both building codes and insurance regulations i sincerely hope nothing ever fails...
Drop ceilings are to code in most places as long as it meets the 7’ minimum height requirement and has the fire barrier (gypsum board) above it (or is fire rated itself)……..nylon rope might be debatable if the drop ceiling was the fire barrier but in this case the plywood (unless painted with intumescent coating) is (hopefully) not.
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Ok, I think everyone's comments are getting me in the right frame of thinking. The horn is thick and the mouth is the the thickest part. Thankfully, it appears that the horn builders were also concerned with excess decay no less than we are. I don't think....the horns mouth, is a problem for resonance, then again, I wouldn't know where in the spectrum to look.
The horns mouth is 3 inches thick, for the last ~2inches of the horn, creating a sort of baffle wall. I am thinking about focusing on a a stand the resides at the balancing point of the horn using type of swivel mount, maybe like this. This seems to simplest and likely satisfies my needs of inertness, outside of any horn shell resonances that haven't been discovered.
The horns mouth is 3 inches thick, for the last ~2inches of the horn, creating a sort of baffle wall. I am thinking about focusing on a a stand the resides at the balancing point of the horn using type of swivel mount, maybe like this. This seems to simplest and likely satisfies my needs of inertness, outside of any horn shell resonances that haven't been discovered.
I think I have the front bracing figured out. using this;
I am still investigating something for the rear.
I also could try to use something like this, to hold the whole thing from the bottom, on its balancing point...but it just seems like a lot of weight? Maybe if I used 2 on each...
From a SQ POV, whatever you use should be damping the driver/horn's resonances that Altec and others did with the appropriate density, treated, cardboard gaskets that allowed them to rigidly mount the horn.
FYI/FWIW/YMMV, when I tweaked a pair of Altec 511 sectoral horns 'to the max', allowing a thin wax paper gasket, I had to mount it with a thick neoprene gasket loosely tightened to 'taste' between the simple adjustable bracket and its movable 'sled' it was mounted on in common use at the time to both optimize horn location (time/phase align) and once hard screwed to the cab, stiffened/damped the top of the (A7) cab's truncated mid bass horn.
FYI/FWIW/YMMV, when I tweaked a pair of Altec 511 sectoral horns 'to the max', allowing a thin wax paper gasket, I had to mount it with a thick neoprene gasket loosely tightened to 'taste' between the simple adjustable bracket and its movable 'sled' it was mounted on in common use at the time to both optimize horn location (time/phase align) and once hard screwed to the cab, stiffened/damped the top of the (A7) cab's truncated mid bass horn.
Mass of the horn + mass of the jointed mount if only resonates at a VLF and rigidly attached to the horn, maybe, depending on its gasket/connection. But such a massive horn will also max out its resonant efficiency, so at higher power (if any) could in theory audibly impact performance, so while you're very likely ~100% correct, don't want any of our 'audience' getting the 'impression' that this is never a potential issue. 😉
Why don't you hang the horn 'free floating' in heavy duty (cargo) straps?
No need to attach hooks to you expensive horns.
Again, I'd use nylon ropes (because of the loose weave and availability of many sizes), but I think that this would be an ideal way to "mount" a horn. No vibrational transmission either into or out of the radiating device. Perfect isolation.
The ropes should be as long as possible and should be size so that they aren't highly stressed. The more tension, the more transmission along the ropes. Don't be afraid to use many of them - criss-crossed if necessary.
The ropes should be as long as possible and should be size so that they aren't highly stressed. The more tension, the more transmission along the ropes. Don't be afraid to use many of them - criss-crossed if necessary.