These are the parts used in the kits. Always best for ZM to provide any specifics.
With that said, I believe early on, he told me that a 140 is a 140 ... and a 139 is a 139 for the purposes of this circuit.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/512-BD13910S
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/512-BD14010S
Edited to add - LOL! He's quick.
With that said, I believe early on, he told me that a 140 is a 140 ... and a 139 is a 139 for the purposes of this circuit.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/512-BD13910S
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/512-BD14010S
Edited to add - LOL! He's quick.
Ok, those BD139 and BD140 are BD139-10 and BD140-10 which has Hfe 60-160:
https://elektronik-lavpris.dk/p77579/bd140-16-pnp-80v-15a-8w-b100-250-to126/
https://elektronik-lavpris.dk/p77578/bd140-10-pnp-80v-15a-8w-b60-160-to126/
I get those locally then I have them before the weekend......and they are cheap.
I get 10 of each.......then even cheaper.......
https://elektronik-lavpris.dk/p77579/bd140-16-pnp-80v-15a-8w-b100-250-to126/
https://elektronik-lavpris.dk/p77578/bd140-10-pnp-80v-15a-8w-b60-160-to126/
I get those locally then I have them before the weekend......and they are cheap.
I get 10 of each.......then even cheaper.......
I could not resist the price for 10 vs. 1 🙂
I did also purchase 25 x IRF9510 and 25 x IRF510........just in case......price here also fine for 25 instead of 1 or 10........
I did also purchase 25 x IRF9510 and 25 x IRF510........just in case......price here also fine for 25 instead of 1 or 10........
I checked datasheet for junction temp for IRF510 .....max. 175 C .....it was the one that got quite hot "to the touch" .......but I don't think it exceeded 175 C...
I removed my finger after 1/2 second or so.......how hot is that?
It is said that the brain needs 1/4 second to recognize if something is wrong.........so the "Pass-scale" can't go below that......
But at least I could not smell any burned meat.....
I removed my finger after 1/2 second or so.......how hot is that?
It is said that the brain needs 1/4 second to recognize if something is wrong.........so the "Pass-scale" can't go below that......
But at least I could not smell any burned meat.....
you're not allowed to ask anything until you get it operational
in fact, pretty much any (reasonable) question you can think of is already answered
moral of the story :
use Forum for fun, you and Boyz being happy
and use it for things leading to learning
if anyone needs help of entire community to find easily seen swap of few components ........ something is wrong - not with methodology, but with imperatives
color me stiff, learning needs to be first
hint: 175C inside the case of transistor; means much less on case; but even as that, your skin will be melted on surface
so, chill - it's tried and it works
in fact, pretty much any (reasonable) question you can think of is already answered
moral of the story :
use Forum for fun, you and Boyz being happy
and use it for things leading to learning
if anyone needs help of entire community to find easily seen swap of few components ........ something is wrong - not with methodology, but with imperatives
color me stiff, learning needs to be first
hint: 175C inside the case of transistor; means much less on case; but even as that, your skin will be melted on surface
so, chill - it's tried and it works
This question was discussed a minute ago, but I can corroborate that the NKK ribbon cable: ISDCB84 and the Wurth Headers: 61201421621 available at Mouser fit each other and the boards (despite the ambiguous specs)... its a bit more convenient than the Amazon products currently listed on the BOM which would leave each individual with 4 extra cables and 26 extra headers. And for those who want a cable longer than 4" the other options in the ISDCB8 series should work just as well.
I see from the first post that the Iron Pre SE needs a 18v secondary but can I get away with a 15v dual secondary which I can convert to center tapped with 0.5A current rating for each secondary? I have these nice Talema got from a member here and I made these pcbs 🙂
Thanks
Thanks
most likely will do - say that I need at least 18Vdc after bridge to call it OK
meaning - 18Vdc in -10% mains state, so 19V8 when mains is nominal
now, if you have anything less, just set output voltage to lesser value
IPre will work nicely with 12Vdc rails
Iron Pumpkin is having 12Vdc rails, but without cap multipliers .........
anyhow - I'm expecting that shown Talema is going to have more than 15Vac per sec. loaded with 80mA; majority of xformers are spec-ed at full load
meaning - 18Vdc in -10% mains state, so 19V8 when mains is nominal
now, if you have anything less, just set output voltage to lesser value
IPre will work nicely with 12Vdc rails
Iron Pumpkin is having 12Vdc rails, but without cap multipliers .........
anyhow - I'm expecting that shown Talema is going to have more than 15Vac per sec. loaded with 80mA; majority of xformers are spec-ed at full load
Now with new BD139 / BD140 at the correct places I have -+14 VDC at approx. 200 VAC at primary (vario).
M1/M2 gets quite hot. Searching the thread it seems normal. They get more hot than my fingers like to touch. Reading the datasheet 60-70 C should be no problem. I think the finger test says approx. 60 C.
I might dare to crank it up the last step from 200 to 230 VAC or just plug it into the outlet and make the final adjustments.
M1/M2 gets quite hot. Searching the thread it seems normal. They get more hot than my fingers like to touch. Reading the datasheet 60-70 C should be no problem. I think the finger test says approx. 60 C.
I might dare to crank it up the last step from 200 to 230 VAC or just plug it into the outlet and make the final adjustments.
Cap multipliers… isn’t that just a fab? A bit like VR copulation, certainly better than nothing but still with something missing?
