Ok, different version of T-types also exists......some more "T" than others......sand filled etc. Will check what I have.
But it will take some time before a fuse can be mounted as I just discovered that "fuse holder" for the DD12 Schurter has to be ordered as a "side order".
Just a big hole........I thought holder was missing by a mistake but it is written that holder is a "side-order". Various versions exist!
But it will take some time before a fuse can be mounted as I just discovered that "fuse holder" for the DD12 Schurter has to be ordered as a "side order".
Just a big hole........I thought holder was missing by a mistake but it is written that holder is a "side-order". Various versions exist!
MEPER I'm using a 500mA slow-blow fuse for 120VAC mains. I debated going with a 250mA slow-blow but didn't want to deal with start-up surges popping fuses. I also had the hiccup of realizing I need to order the fuse carrier separately.Ok, different version of T-types also exists......some more "T" than others......sand filled etc. Will check what I have.
But it will take some time before a fuse can be mounted as I just discovered that "fuse holder" for the DD12 Schurter has to be ordered as a "side order".
View attachment 1190491
Just a big hole........I thought holder was missing by a mistake but it is written that holder is a "side-order". Various versions exist!
It is mentioned in post #619
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ter-your-interest.390509/page-31#post-7352638
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ter-your-interest.390509/page-31#post-7352638
Yes, strange that German terms are used when it comes to fuses (T = Träge, F = Flink). Maybe fuses were invented in Germany. We also have the DIN-standards.
When I order the fuse holder I will also order som T-fuses 🙂 from 100 mA to 200 mA.
When I order the fuse holder I will also order som T-fuses 🙂 from 100 mA to 200 mA.
In the USA, we just say the T is for "Time Delay", and the F is for "Fast".
I would be curious if the German terms were the originals.
I would be curious if the German terms were the originals.
Has anyone practical experiences with ALPS motor potentiometer?
My build is nearly ready but one thing makes me despair, namely: should the case of the pot be grounded or not?
The original spec says:
"As potentiometer is not grounded, conductive material of the knob may cause a earth noise."
My build is nearly ready but one thing makes me despair, namely: should the case of the pot be grounded or not?
The original spec says:
"As potentiometer is not grounded, conductive material of the knob may cause a earth noise."

In the USA, we just say the T is for "Time Delay", and the F is for "Fast".
I would be curious if the German terms were the originals.
Without being 100% sure I think T and F is from German (and H and L is from English. Probably some later definitions). The German terms are often mentioned in English written specs.
https://www.siglenteu.com/operating-tip/common-fuse-information/
.....and then "Trage" should be "Träge" to be correct.
In the USA, we just say the T is for "Time Delay", and the F is for "Fast".
I would be curious if the German terms were the originals.
In the USA, we just say the T is for "Time Delay", and the F is for "Fast".
I would be curious if the German terms were the originals
Träge means slow. Flink means fast (in this context).In the USA, we just say the T is for "Time Delay", and the F is for "Fast".
I would be curious if the German terms were the originals.
Without being 100% sure I think T and F is from German (and H and L is from English. Probably some later definitions). The German terms are often mentioned in English written specs.
I also never knew that there were variants TT / FF etc.
🙂
OK, I'm done learning for the day. It's a weekend. 😉
Neat! I just always went with Time Delay and Fast.https://www.siglenteu.com/operating-tip/common-fuse-information/
.....and then "Trage" should be "Träge" to be correct.
I also never knew that there were variants TT / FF etc.
🙂
OK, I'm done learning for the day. It's a weekend. 😉
Also... for those keenly watching the thread for timing information re: the next batch...
I have a tracking number from CineMag, and JFETs are on the way from Papa.
Final timing still TBD, but ... the beavers are still busy.
In addition, for those interested... check out the logic thread. There are some really good conversations over there. I learned a bit (see what I did there) ... Also, there is one Muses solution that I am particularly excited about.
I have a tracking number from CineMag, and JFETs are on the way from Papa.
Final timing still TBD, but ... the beavers are still busy.
In addition, for those interested... check out the logic thread. There are some really good conversations over there. I learned a bit (see what I did there) ... Also, there is one Muses solution that I am particularly excited about.
No more despair thanks to Zen Modground it to case potential

After I grounded the ALPS to the chassis, 50 Hz went down from -103dB to -114 dB.
Pics come soon.
Wrong, delta = -103 - (-114) = 11 dB. This comes up to an almost 355% increase in value

it really depends ........... are you looking at ZM from above....... or ZM is looking at you from above


I mounted the back panel of my special version chassis. I use DAC input only and I implement no vol pot. Front panel is just black.
By a mistake I got yellow RCA connectors (instead of black) for Left input/output. I wonder how that sounds.
I am using Korg pre at the moment and made a test where Korg vol pot is cranked all the way up (I guess that will give a direct galvanic connection with ALPS doing that). Then DAC was turned into pre-amp mode. It works very well according to my ears. So I look forward to Iron-Pre with much shorter signal path and also a bit lower gain which will give lower noise (noise level is already very low).
By a mistake I got yellow RCA connectors (instead of black) for Left input/output. I wonder how that sounds.
I am using Korg pre at the moment and made a test where Korg vol pot is cranked all the way up (I guess that will give a direct galvanic connection with ALPS doing that). Then DAC was turned into pre-amp mode. It works very well according to my ears. So I look forward to Iron-Pre with much shorter signal path and also a bit lower gain which will give lower noise (noise level is already very low).
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