to my untrained eyes, it seems that you boyz made an issue of nothing
that right pin of small resistor is having exactly same height as pin of "regular" 0207
I've seen proper real ookoops in commercially made gadgets, no one really bothered to fix them for production
anyhow, that is already taken care of, for next batch of pcbs in Store
and after that, this is planned
only possible tnx to IAIMH eagerness
Attachments
Eagerness <=> Wakooness 
Note for all - While the internet was up, I did a quick update to the BoM V8 noting that if 12V relays are used to put a little heatsink on M3. 🙂.
Note for all - While the internet was up, I did a quick update to the BoM V8 noting that if 12V relays are used to put a little heatsink on M3. 🙂.
to my untrained eyes, it seems that you boyz made an issue of nothing
that right pin of small resistor is having exactly same height as pin of "regular" 0207
I've seen proper real ookoops in commercially made gadgets, no one really bothered to fix them for production
anyhow, that is already taken care of, for next batch of pcbs in Store
and after that, this is planned
only possible tnx to IAIMH eagerness
The trick is to avoid that solder it "flooded" too much at the "upper side". The small resistors have much thinner legs so maybe this makes it easier to apply small amount of solder......but the real reason why I used the miniature 330R was that I ordered them by a mistake.......most other resistors I got was the "normal" size 🙂
I haven't built the current version but thanks to MEPER's photo this really shouldn't be a problem with a recommended size resistor and a bit of care in bending the leads. It'll be a good idea to do a test fitting with the Cinemag transformer just to verify before soldering things in place.
With the earlier prototype boards, one needs to snip off the four (unconnected) corner pins on the Cinemag, so this is pretty easy to do in comparison.
With the earlier prototype boards, one needs to snip off the four (unconnected) corner pins on the Cinemag, so this is pretty easy to do in comparison.
R3/R4 and R5/R6 is a parallel combination of 15R/18R.
Is that done to share the load or because it can be difficult to get the small resistors < 10R?
I have 18R in backorder but have more 15R "in stock". Would 2 x 15R work? (it would give 7.5R vs. 8.2R).
Is that done to share the load or because it can be difficult to get the small resistors < 10R?
I have 18R in backorder but have more 15R "in stock". Would 2 x 15R work? (it would give 7.5R vs. 8.2R).
I ended up using 2 x 15R in parallel = 7R5 (a nice midpoint between 6 and 9).
I have installed most components. Hopefully without any obvious mistakes 🙂
Cinemags still have to go in. In principle the board could be tested / adjusted "as-is".
Think I used six different brands of resistors! ......what a mess.....and what about the red jumpers.....now everything else are mostly black and blue.....?
I have installed most components. Hopefully without any obvious mistakes 🙂
Cinemags still have to go in. In principle the board could be tested / adjusted "as-is".
Think I used six different brands of resistors! ......what a mess.....and what about the red jumpers.....now everything else are mostly black and blue.....?
Attachments
Suzy GT 750
Suzy Titan 500 exception on the rule
Kawi 350, 500, 750
Would love a TZ 750 but Yami don't count
I looked what I have in black color for such an project. I have matte black paint that are widely used for telescopes flocking and other photographic equipment that needs a non-reflecting surface. I have this:
https://www.gerdneumann.net/english...arze-optikfarbe-deep-black-optical-paint.html
.....and also some Humbrol Enamel Matt 33 paint which has same properties.
One very nice feature is that the paint don't reflect Infrared light either.
It can be used to make my red jumpers black.
Also good for the walls, ceiling, floor etc. in the listening room to make it completely "light dead" so concentration is on music only and no distraction from light reflections. <-- this is also the reason I never install LEDs on any front panel.......they are disturbing! direct light sources are "no-go" in a serious listening room.
https://www.gerdneumann.net/english...arze-optikfarbe-deep-black-optical-paint.html
.....and also some Humbrol Enamel Matt 33 paint which has same properties.
One very nice feature is that the paint don't reflect Infrared light either.
It can be used to make my red jumpers black.
Also good for the walls, ceiling, floor etc. in the listening room to make it completely "light dead" so concentration is on music only and no distraction from light reflections. <-- this is also the reason I never install LEDs on any front panel.......they are disturbing! direct light sources are "no-go" in a serious listening room.
much easier on your paint stash - just take pair of dummy glasses, or cheapest sun-glasses ...... paint their lenses, and wear them anytime when involved with listening space
Ok, maybe the "funny thing" you get on long distance flights to wrap around your eyes could be a good starting point.
Apart from that I look forward to challenge Iron-Pre with M. Ravels Gaspard de la nuit 3. movement (Scarbo):
Do you think Jfets + Cinemags are fast enough for this piece?
Apart from that I look forward to challenge Iron-Pre with M. Ravels Gaspard de la nuit 3. movement (Scarbo):
Do you think Jfets + Cinemags are fast enough for this piece?
