It actually seems like copper is not really oxidized. They might had used some sort of conformal coating, or maybe even C37 laquer😉
Peter Daniel said:
Or maybe not. I've some copper foil here that's been sitting around here for over 10 years which has nothing on it and it looks no worse than the copper on the Gaincard boards. I've got some old projects here that were wired up with bare copper wire that look just as good.
I mean, just how harsh an environment is the typical home? I think much of the fear about copper and oxidation (except where electrical contacts are concerned) is just CuOphobia.
se
It certainly depends on environment. My TDA1541 DAC board that was done with bare copper (and spent whole winter in a basement) looks like **** now. I wish I had it protected somehow.
Peter Daniel said:
Try these. 😀
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
se
basements are probably humid and have some corrosive substances in the air. not very sure though. just a thought.
Here's my take on this GCard/ GClone board comparison. My bet is a DIYer opened his GCard and switched his GClone in the GCard chassis then sold it keeping the GCard in his beautifully handmade DIY GClone chassis. So who ever owns that 47 Labs GainCard actually owns a GainClone. You've been had my man!
Konnichiwa,
Hmm. Yet it is made from a material that after etching and with non-sealed edges is very hygroscopic and makes for "bad" sound. Is that what makes the board "better"?
Sayonara
carlosfm said:
Hmm. Yet it is made from a material that after etching and with non-sealed edges is very hygroscopic and makes for "bad" sound. Is that what makes the board "better"?
Sayonara
Hi,Kuei Yang Wang said:
Fedde's pcb is IMO standard quality FR4 material (post 112). "Original" pcb (post 113) looks like "hygroscopic" pertinax.
Regards
I meant better looking.😀
If I had a digital camera I'd post a pic of my PCBs (LM3886).
BIGC, with (OPA627 of course😉 ) op-amp and regulators for it.
The PCB is (at least looking at the pic) not bigger than the Gaincard's ones.
And of course, I can use the op-amp (along with re regs) or not.😉
But I like it more buffered.
BTW this is the best sound I can get from any type of GC I tried.
Only didn't try valves.
But this is pointless, as many people are doing it much prettier and better than the Gaincard.
It's just my oppinion that 47 Labs' amps should have a completely sealed box, like Swatch watches.
If I had a digital camera I'd post a pic of my PCBs (LM3886).
BIGC, with (OPA627 of course😉 ) op-amp and regulators for it.
The PCB is (at least looking at the pic) not bigger than the Gaincard's ones.
And of course, I can use the op-amp (along with re regs) or not.😉
But I like it more buffered.
BTW this is the best sound I can get from any type of GC I tried.
Only didn't try valves.
But this is pointless, as many people are doing it much prettier and better than the Gaincard.
It's just my oppinion that 47 Labs' amps should have a completely sealed box, like Swatch watches.
Peter Daniel said:
That is scary and very true for a number of places in the world. In Denmark one have to be carefull sealing a circuit, but if not sealed its not like the whole thing goes bad over night.
In Ventspils/Latvia, a town on the west coast, one actually have to take special care about anything made of metal, the wind blows salt in over the town from the sea. Ive seen anodized vaccuum window frames give in to the salt 🙁
Magura🙂
Perhaps the only thing that has changed in four years is 47 labs isn't so worried about pictures of the internals being published.
Well, maybe now a few more people on the "47 labs" side.
Look, $1750 is what it costs. Anyone is free to audition it against anything else costing as much and decide for themselves if its worth it. Worth it, however, is by how it sounds and, to a lesser extent, features and aesthetics. Seems to me it should be quite competitive, as it has a niche market largely to itself in terms of being something small and rather fashionable - for those not looking for yet-another-19"-rack-black-box with so-thick-I-must-be-compensating-for-something faceplate.
But as a commercial product that's really for the consumer of high end audio to come to terms with and nothing to do with the DIY. So it's off topic in this forum. Besides its really really really boring. I can't beleive I just read 9 pages of these ******* posts.
More useful were those 15% of posts that commented that hey that's a pretty neat little design, and not at all hard for any DIYer to implement. Further, we might want to take a second look at the LM1875 (I've always found it a bit thin compared to its gutsier bigger brother, but...) and research a little more in sticking a fairly big electrolytic (47uF or so) across the power supply rails.
Those of you not into this already might want to wise up about the jacketless caps thing. It really does work. Then theres all that vibration stuff.
The shigaraki is carefully designed with every part and every dimension to sound good, with the caveat that the solid aluminum casing and cut-core transformer of the Gaincard was left out due to cost constraints.
So why not stop carping on about how cheap and messy everything looks like and instead try it out for yourself and see if it sounds better or worse than "audiophile approved" parts and methodology.
Shouldn't it count for something that those of us who have looked into the 47 labs design most closely are the ones expressing the most admiration, rather than the other way around?
rjm
Well, maybe now a few more people on the "47 labs" side.
Look, $1750 is what it costs. Anyone is free to audition it against anything else costing as much and decide for themselves if its worth it. Worth it, however, is by how it sounds and, to a lesser extent, features and aesthetics. Seems to me it should be quite competitive, as it has a niche market largely to itself in terms of being something small and rather fashionable - for those not looking for yet-another-19"-rack-black-box with so-thick-I-must-be-compensating-for-something faceplate.
But as a commercial product that's really for the consumer of high end audio to come to terms with and nothing to do with the DIY. So it's off topic in this forum. Besides its really really really boring. I can't beleive I just read 9 pages of these ******* posts.
More useful were those 15% of posts that commented that hey that's a pretty neat little design, and not at all hard for any DIYer to implement. Further, we might want to take a second look at the LM1875 (I've always found it a bit thin compared to its gutsier bigger brother, but...) and research a little more in sticking a fairly big electrolytic (47uF or so) across the power supply rails.
Those of you not into this already might want to wise up about the jacketless caps thing. It really does work. Then theres all that vibration stuff.
The shigaraki is carefully designed with every part and every dimension to sound good, with the caveat that the solid aluminum casing and cut-core transformer of the Gaincard was left out due to cost constraints.
So why not stop carping on about how cheap and messy everything looks like and instead try it out for yourself and see if it sounds better or worse than "audiophile approved" parts and methodology.
Shouldn't it count for something that those of us who have looked into the 47 labs design most closely are the ones expressing the most admiration, rather than the other way around?
rjm
rjm, although I think the PCB and the internal assembly of the whole thing looks really bad, I also think it's a good design.
I don't like that volume pot too, it's too bad.
This is my oppinion, just that.
But I like your post, it's very good indeed.
And yes, in audio things cost what they sound.
I don't like that volume pot too, it's too bad.
This is my oppinion, just that.
But I like your post, it's very good indeed.
And yes, in audio things cost what they sound.
carlosfm said:
And yes, in audio things cost what they sound.
I'd rather say: they cost what people are willing to pay.😉
What is BIGC?
Peter Daniel said:
Buffered Inverted GC.😉
Non-inverted op-amp buffer before an inverted LM3886 (in this case).
😎
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