Hello,
I would like to install an IEC socket in my Yamaha integrated amp to get rid of the small 2 prong captive mains lead and replace with suitable aftermarket 3 prong cable.
My question is where does the ground connection go to?
The chassis?
Thanks!
I would like to install an IEC socket in my Yamaha integrated amp to get rid of the small 2 prong captive mains lead and replace with suitable aftermarket 3 prong cable.
My question is where does the ground connection go to?
The chassis?
Thanks!
Well the Yamaha just might have a Class 2 insulated chassis. If so Class 2 chassis don't have or need a ground wire. When you add an IEC socket, it stops being a Class 2 chassis and then the fun begins.
See - far down the page:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Insulator_(electricity)
See - far down the page:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Insulator_(electricity)
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Just ck for continuity between the power ground on circuit board and outer chassis which I believe on older yamaha components is the case...
Regards, Elwood
Regards, Elwood
If it's an older unit (pre Class 2) then just connect the ground terminal to the chassis with as short a wire as practicable.
When connecting any power line ground wires to the chassis, it needs to be a secure mechanical connection, you can't just solder the wire to a lug.
When connecting any power line ground wires to the chassis, it needs to be a secure mechanical connection, you can't just solder the wire to a lug.
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If it is a current production model, then it should be ready to do its job best as is. If you go adding grounds where they were not designed to be, you are just begging to introduce ground loops and their hum into your system.
Just my own opinion.
Just my own opinion.
There are two grounding schemes normally used for legal and safety reasons, one where the circuit is enclosed in a grounded chassis, and one where the circuit is insulated from the user by more than one means (double insulated).
Both can be safe. Neither necessarily causes audio problems.
I think that unless you have established a specific reason, you should probably make only changes that leave the circuit essentially the same.
Both can be safe. Neither necessarily causes audio problems.
I think that unless you have established a specific reason, you should probably make only changes that leave the circuit essentially the same.
Why not fit a two pin IEC?
They don't have the ground connection and all IEC two or three pin free sockets fit. No ground worries then.
They don't have the ground connection and all IEC two or three pin free sockets fit. No ground worries then.
Hi ! i have a similar issue and wonder if the grounding method attached can work fine.
Moreover i wonder which could be the best way to make the hole in the rear panel to install the IEC socket 🙄 just with a drill and a drill cutter bit ?
these captive mains leads should be banned from the earth. 😡
I do not understand why while all pcs on the earth sport iec sockets audio equipment do not
Moreover i wonder which could be the best way to make the hole in the rear panel to install the IEC socket 🙄 just with a drill and a drill cutter bit ?
these captive mains leads should be banned from the earth. 😡
I do not understand why while all pcs on the earth sport iec sockets audio equipment do not
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Drilling is a good way to start, obviously it depends on what you begin with, your skill level, your available tools. I usually end up using a flat file at some point. Aluminium is good to work with except when the IEC has plastic clips built in with no bolt holes, then it is too thick. I have removed a section of commercially stamped steel to use like a blanking plate arrangement to hold the clip in style.
When you attach pieces like that though, or reassess an old case for use as a class 1 appliance I think it best to attach panels similar to attaching a ground lug, such as using shakeproof washers to ensure an electrical bond and to discourage loosening.
When you attach pieces like that though, or reassess an old case for use as a class 1 appliance I think it best to attach panels similar to attaching a ground lug, such as using shakeproof washers to ensure an electrical bond and to discourage loosening.
Hi ! please excuse me for my very late reply but i have been in a mess in the weekend and without access to the pc. I will try some dremel like drill cutters ... i friend of mine suggested me something very small to avoid big damages to the case and see.
I am so sad that there is a no rule that makes mandatory this IEC sockets like for computers for instance. I had a bad experience being trapped in a captive power cord for my lack of care. If i will find something interesting i will report for sure. Maybe next week i could try something. During the week i am in another location for my job
Thank you very much again for your very kind and valuable advice.
Kind regards,
gino
I am so sad that there is a no rule that makes mandatory this IEC sockets like for computers for instance. I had a bad experience being trapped in a captive power cord for my lack of care. If i will find something interesting i will report for sure. Maybe next week i could try something. During the week i am in another location for my job
Thank you very much again for your very kind and valuable advice.
Kind regards,
gino
I will reinforce what has been said above.
If the amp uses two wires for the electrical connection, it is likely to be a Class II electrical device (usually using the IEC C7/C8 couplers, aka "figure of eight"). They should be identified with a sticker on the device saying "Class II", or the symbol - a square within a square. Electrical safety is ensured by having all high voltages double-insulated, so if one layer of insulation breaks there is another for protection. The electrical ground is not used, so three-wire mains cable is not used. Many audio devices and portable devices are Class II.
Class I devices have three-wire electrical cable (IEC C13/C14 connectors). They are made safe because all metal casing is connected to the earth wire in the power cable, so any accidental short circuits are diverted to the earth (literally) and not through a human. Big devices like refrigerators and washing machines are Class I.
It is inappropriate to change a Class II power socket to a three-pin IEC C14. There is no benefit to doing so, and the earth pin on this socket won't be connected to anything. It won't do any harm, but you are messing with the electrical integrity of the unit as designed and as it passed electrical standards certification. Such a modification won't pass a test+tag inspection.
If the amp uses two wires for the electrical connection, it is likely to be a Class II electrical device (usually using the IEC C7/C8 couplers, aka "figure of eight"). They should be identified with a sticker on the device saying "Class II", or the symbol - a square within a square. Electrical safety is ensured by having all high voltages double-insulated, so if one layer of insulation breaks there is another for protection. The electrical ground is not used, so three-wire mains cable is not used. Many audio devices and portable devices are Class II.
Class I devices have three-wire electrical cable (IEC C13/C14 connectors). They are made safe because all metal casing is connected to the earth wire in the power cable, so any accidental short circuits are diverted to the earth (literally) and not through a human. Big devices like refrigerators and washing machines are Class I.
It is inappropriate to change a Class II power socket to a three-pin IEC C14. There is no benefit to doing so, and the earth pin on this socket won't be connected to anything. It won't do any harm, but you are messing with the electrical integrity of the unit as designed and as it passed electrical standards certification. Such a modification won't pass a test+tag inspection.
Hi ! thanks a lot again. I wonder why this ... again i see computers and they all come with that blessed IEC mains socket
I hate that tail protruding from some audio equipment very much
And also another question ... i have an amp with a captive power cord (like a tail) and a schuko plug but without earth (only 2 pins)
This must mean that it is a Class II device ? there must be written somewhere ?
And moreover ... what about the Powercon standard instead ? it needs a big hole in the enclosure ... but it is rounded Easier to do.
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If the device takes a two-wire power cable, it is likely to be a Class II device. However, it may not be - it may have been designed/manufactured before these standards were introduced, or it may have been designed/manufactured incorrectly.
Class II devices - that have been accredited via an appropriate electrical standards - should either state "Class II" on the device, or have the Class II symbol - the square within a square. This could be on a sticker attached to the device, or molded into the device's plastic casing. If it doesn't have either of these, then it is unlikely to meet the specifications of Class II. The specifications will be part of your country's electrical specification standards, which will be upheld by your country's law.
Class II devices - that have been accredited via an appropriate electrical standards - should either state "Class II" on the device, or have the Class II symbol - the square within a square. This could be on a sticker attached to the device, or molded into the device's plastic casing. If it doesn't have either of these, then it is unlikely to meet the specifications of Class II. The specifications will be part of your country's electrical specification standards, which will be upheld by your country's law.
Hi thank you very much again for your helpful advice. Yes there is the symbol where the cord enters the enclosure. 🙂
I wonder if this design choice of making a class II device is to avoid some ground noise issue ... Strange
Anyway if i put a iec socket i can always leave the ground pin not connected and have the same situation with the advantage of being able to use a power cord nicer than the stock one.
The metal case is quite thick ... but i have to try I sincerely hate captive power cord I tripped on one once Not a nice experience indeed 🙁
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In my experience figure-of-8 connectors are less robust and often become unreliable, and I basically feel queasy about any non-polarized mains connector.
Hi thanks a lot. I share your criticism about figure 8 solution.
From what i understand a better design is Powercon ? unfortunately very rare ... even on more expensive equipment. Very strange.
Maybe i am triviliazing here but there can be standard better by design ? to have a very good IEC connection it could be more challenging that to have a very good Powercon connection ? i see IEC plugs selling for hundreds of dollars .... 😱
Hi ! thanks for the advice Actually i am thinking also to replace the power cord with a better cable. But yes the solution you mention is the most trouble free
I would make equipment with captive power cords illegal. I hate that tail so much ... very unelegant. 🙁
Pcs all have IEC sockets ... there must be a reason i suppose