Zimbo, did you replace any other MOSFET than Q2?
On your picture of the resistors it seems as you have resoldered multiple components
I have the same problem with blown resistors, but i don't know if Q2 or something else is also broken.
Happy new year to everybody!
On your picture of the resistors it seems as you have resoldered multiple components
I have the same problem with blown resistors, but i don't know if Q2 or something else is also broken.
Happy new year to everybody!
I have the same problem...and after reading this thread I am fascinated. Looking forward to trying to fix mine or at least walk into our local electronics fixer-man's shop and know what the heck I am talking about. Gonna try that C3 cap first as it seems like the easiest start.
big mistake
I removed the 85C caps to replace them with 105C. But I lost the paper I wrote where the 4.7 uf was located. does anyone have the Cxx location for a lp600 power board?
thanks😕
I removed the 85C caps to replace them with 105C. But I lost the paper I wrote where the 4.7 uf was located. does anyone have the Cxx location for a lp600 power board?
thanks😕
lp 600
I have 6 lp600 projectors with power problems. I dont have time to repair them. Is anyone interested in purchasing them for parts or to repair?
I have 6 lp600 projectors with power problems. I dont have time to repair them. Is anyone interested in purchasing them for parts or to repair?
Fero111, that usually is a temp repair as eventually it would do the same and you'll have to get the hairdryer out every time.
Hallo,
on my lp600 the lamp won't strike after five attempts. can this caused due powersupply-problem Thanks for idees und sorry for my bad google-englisch
Greetings
MrPommeroy
on my lp600 the lamp won't strike after five attempts. can this caused due powersupply-problem Thanks for idees und sorry for my bad google-englisch
Greetings
MrPommeroy
Does it flicker. see closely during the strikes. If you can see some tiny amount of light, then more than likely it is a faulty lamp. The ballast and PSU is all in one board on these. It is rare for the ballast side to die on these. It is generally the PSU side that dies. The effect of a dead PSU won't even operate the power light or LCD display.
Hallo Gizmotech,
Thank you for reply. The Lamp dosent flicker. Display and LED work ok. The Lp600 try more times to strike the Lamp. The LED blin red. On Display " lamp is not turned on"
Thank you for reply. The Lamp dosent flicker. Display and LED work ok. The Lp600 try more times to strike the Lamp. The LED blin red. On Display " lamp is not turned on"
It could be either, but I personally think the lamp is dead as I have not seen many faulty ballast on these models. How many hours on the lamp?
Check to see if the switch for the lamp cover is working. If need be, bridge the wires.
If you can find any projector which takes SHP lamp and is either 150W -200W range, you can try your lamp on that projector with the wires temporarily fixed. Make sure wires are connected the right way round as this is a DC bulb (200W DC Low Voltage Ignition Burner).
Alternatively, stick an inline fuse between the terminals of the connector from the ballast with wires (observing all safety of course) and see if the fuse blows when you hear the buzzing of the colour wheel. If it doesn't blow then it is most definately your ballast. If it does, then more than likely it will be your lamp. Keep a fire extinguisher handy 😀.
Hope this helps although not the safest methods mentioned.
Check to see if the switch for the lamp cover is working. If need be, bridge the wires.
If you can find any projector which takes SHP lamp and is either 150W -200W range, you can try your lamp on that projector with the wires temporarily fixed. Make sure wires are connected the right way round as this is a DC bulb (200W DC Low Voltage Ignition Burner).
Alternatively, stick an inline fuse between the terminals of the connector from the ballast with wires (observing all safety of course) and see if the fuse blows when you hear the buzzing of the colour wheel. If it doesn't blow then it is most definately your ballast. If it does, then more than likely it will be your lamp. Keep a fire extinguisher handy 😀.
Hope this helps although not the safest methods mentioned.
Gizmotech, thats a really good method. Cheap and cheerful. I will sure remember the next time a similar situation should arise. Thanks for the info.
Thank you!
Thank you to everyone that helped diagnose this problem! Replacing C3 with a 100uf 35V cap from Radio Shack solved my problem of no power (LED/LCD/LAMP/FANS).
I appreciate the help!!
Thank you to everyone that helped diagnose this problem! Replacing C3 with a 100uf 35V cap from Radio Shack solved my problem of no power (LED/LCD/LAMP/FANS).
I appreciate the help!!
I had the exact same problem as well and after replacing C3 cap it works again. However, it now has a new problem, and that is one white vertical line now runs down the length of the screen. Any one know what the deali-o could be? PS Thanks for the help with the power!!!
Infocus
Thanks for your quick response and willingness to help. The only other information that might be of any use is; the white line is steady, but sometimes flickers. Occasionaly, after warming up for a short while, when I push "source" and it gos to the blue screen, the line disappears but then reappears as soon as connected to DVD or Computer. Heres the pic (sorry about the link, DIY wouldnt allow me to upload) infocus2.jpg picture by isaachubbard - Photobucket
Thanks for your quick response and willingness to help. The only other information that might be of any use is; the white line is steady, but sometimes flickers. Occasionaly, after warming up for a short while, when I push "source" and it gos to the blue screen, the line disappears but then reappears as soon as connected to DVD or Computer. Heres the pic (sorry about the link, DIY wouldnt allow me to upload) infocus2.jpg picture by isaachubbard - Photobucket
The first thing you should do is remove the DMD board and check the connection. The DMD sits in a grey piece of plastic which has tiny connector pins. This grey housing is sandwiched between the DMD and the board. If you remove the DMD from the plastic housing, you can use a tiny neeedle to pull out the pins one by one a little to make better contact. This process is time consuming and requires attention. Hopefully that may sort out the white line issue.
The flickering is more likely to be another issue. I am assuming that by flickering, you mean jumpy image. This is often caused by a faulty colour wheel which cannot be repaired and needs to be replaced. Is your colour wheel noisey? Do you get a load whirring noise upon start up which continues? This may give an indication as to a failing colour wheel.
Alternatively, both the symptoms could be due to a faulty mainboard chipset. Again, there is no way of confirming whether it is the colour wheel or mainboard other than trial and error.
The flickering is more likely to be another issue. I am assuming that by flickering, you mean jumpy image. This is often caused by a faulty colour wheel which cannot be repaired and needs to be replaced. Is your colour wheel noisey? Do you get a load whirring noise upon start up which continues? This may give an indication as to a failing colour wheel.
Alternatively, both the symptoms could be due to a faulty mainboard chipset. Again, there is no way of confirming whether it is the colour wheel or mainboard other than trial and error.
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