Up to now I have been auditioning the Kappas with CDs.
I just played my all-time favorite "test" lp, the LA4 Pavanne direct cut album recorded in 1976. I have been fortunate to have this since 1977 and is still in pristine condition. Well it convinced me that these Kappas are keepers, even without the stock polydomes. The sonics of percussion, snares, hi-hat is quite remarkable, which makes me think this little Tang Band driver is in its' element.
Frequency response, as measured by my Radio Shack SPL meter and Stereophile test CD2 is flat within +/-2db across the audible range.
Here is a pic of the wooferless enclosure and alongside is my home made 3 way using Royd 5" woofer and 3/4" vifa tweeter with a side mounted 10" Dayton sub(being used right now for the Kappa bass). Behind that is my highly modified Apogee Centaurs that has been my reference for 22 years(sublime from 500HZ up). I built some 38 ltr ported enclosures for the 8" Vifa woofer, biamped - made a huge difference and are still my reference. The problem areas with the Centaurs that remain are the vertical dispersion and "head in the vice requirements". I don't like it anymore when a piano wanders around between the speakers. But that silky midrange is beguiling.
Oh, and there is a Frugelhorn hiding behind but - not visible that has wonderful imaging but doesn't provide the low end weight to say, a double bass that a 10 or 12" woofer does.
As you can probably surmise, I am a DIY addict!
Cheers
Peter
I just played my all-time favorite "test" lp, the LA4 Pavanne direct cut album recorded in 1976. I have been fortunate to have this since 1977 and is still in pristine condition. Well it convinced me that these Kappas are keepers, even without the stock polydomes. The sonics of percussion, snares, hi-hat is quite remarkable, which makes me think this little Tang Band driver is in its' element.
Frequency response, as measured by my Radio Shack SPL meter and Stereophile test CD2 is flat within +/-2db across the audible range.
Here is a pic of the wooferless enclosure and alongside is my home made 3 way using Royd 5" woofer and 3/4" vifa tweeter with a side mounted 10" Dayton sub(being used right now for the Kappa bass). Behind that is my highly modified Apogee Centaurs that has been my reference for 22 years(sublime from 500HZ up). I built some 38 ltr ported enclosures for the 8" Vifa woofer, biamped - made a huge difference and are still my reference. The problem areas with the Centaurs that remain are the vertical dispersion and "head in the vice requirements". I don't like it anymore when a piano wanders around between the speakers. But that silky midrange is beguiling.
Oh, and there is a Frugelhorn hiding behind but - not visible that has wonderful imaging but doesn't provide the low end weight to say, a double bass that a 10 or 12" woofer does.
As you can probably surmise, I am a DIY addict!
Cheers
Peter
Attachments
I didn't hear those Vifas in kappas, but heard them in different projects... Very low distortions and delicate sound. Anyway, I newer liked the way all infinity's poly domes sound, so you can do much better 🙂 but what will you have left from infinity then? 🙂 that what I have, I made my speakers in kappa 6.1 boxes 🙂
When I get the proper woofers, the only non stock part is the bamboo driver and, the more I listen, the more I like.
In an attempt to salvage the broken polydomes, for $4.00 apiece, I purchased a couple of 3" paper dustcaps from Simplyspeakers.com and after cleaning the good surrounds, attached the caps with Aleene's tacky glue and let them sit overnight with a ring shaped weight to provide slight pressure while the adhesive set.
I haven't had time to listen extensively, but initial take is measured frequency response through the stock crossover is good - very similar loudness to the Tang Bands, but maybe a little less "edge" .
I'll install both modded polydomes after the weekend and give them a good shakeout.
Peter
I haven't had time to listen extensively, but initial take is measured frequency response through the stock crossover is good - very similar loudness to the Tang Bands, but maybe a little less "edge" .
I'll install both modded polydomes after the weekend and give them a good shakeout.
Peter
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Looking at the schematic, the 12.5 mH inductor is easy to find and disconnect for one part of the mod.
In regards to the cap bypass mod, what is actually happening there?
The schematic shows a 1400 mfd single cap, is that actually made up of multiple caps?
Three caps in parallel make up the 1400uf value. Two 500uf and one 400uf. Jumper across any one of them provides the bypass. I guess you could leave it in the circuit but I'm not sure of the effects.
Peter
Peter
The redomed Polydomes are playing very nicely, the woofers arrived early and the refoam kits should be here this week.
I have a question for you knowledgable types. How is the Emit k tweeter assembled, or more importantly, how do I disassemble the tweeter? One of the rear firing ones is open circuit and I would like to try to fix it. It appears to be very heavily glued together.
Cheers
Peter
I have a question for you knowledgable types. How is the Emit k tweeter assembled, or more importantly, how do I disassemble the tweeter? One of the rear firing ones is open circuit and I would like to try to fix it. It appears to be very heavily glued together.
Cheers
Peter
The refoaming of the woofers was straightforward and after a few hours seem to be performing very well.
The paper dome polydomes have been replaced once again by the 3" tang bands.
I could live with either one, but after my better half auditioned them "blind" with some solo piano music,she said, not knowing which was playing, that the poly sounded like a recording of a piano and the TB sounded like a piano. I have to agree.
Still trying to fix the broken Emit tweeter-in the meantime I have found a pair of small Dayton horn loaded domes to try in place of the rear Emits.
No sign of any amps melting-I have the speakers biamped with a pair of Symasyms, about 100w per channel and they sound very dynamic.
Msb64.....
Did you try the crossover mod on the woofer?
Peter
The paper dome polydomes have been replaced once again by the 3" tang bands.
I could live with either one, but after my better half auditioned them "blind" with some solo piano music,she said, not knowing which was playing, that the poly sounded like a recording of a piano and the TB sounded like a piano. I have to agree.
Still trying to fix the broken Emit tweeter-in the meantime I have found a pair of small Dayton horn loaded domes to try in place of the rear Emits.
No sign of any amps melting-I have the speakers biamped with a pair of Symasyms, about 100w per channel and they sound very dynamic.
Msb64.....
Did you try the crossover mod on the woofer?
Peter
Thanks for sharing this interesting project. You are experimenting with a bit of audio history. I remember seeing these speakers in Sam Goody's back when they sold audio gear (was it Sam Goody's?) and Harvey Stereo.
From the DIY perspective it looks like you can simply add a brand new front baffle and create a completely new speaker without ruining the beautiful cabinets.
Zilla
From the DIY perspective it looks like you can simply add a brand new front baffle and create a completely new speaker without ruining the beautiful cabinets.
Zilla
Sam Goody's sold audio at one time?? That musta been before my time cause I never remember then selling audio gear around here. In the south that is.
Yes, you could easily convert this speaker to satisfy the DIY instincts. Someone on eBay sells a 3way crossover to modify the Kappa series. I have been considering a minidsp 3 way version, but would like to keep everything I do, reversible. The bass, in my room at least is a little "bloomy" and could do with some EQ. The overall FR is not particularly flat, there being "steps" between bass, mid and treble segments, but the overall impression is very satisfying and not in the least, fatiguing.
Peter
Peter
Hi Peter
Not yet, but sounds like you have made some good progress yourself.
I got sidetracked on my own stuff, and came to a conclusion that you might want to consider.
I have been modifying a pair of custom mono hafler amps, and now have them to the point where they are the best performing amps that I have.
I had previously upgraded the caps in my IRS Betas to new non polarized caps, and gave them plenty of time to break in.
A week ago I removed those and replaced them with Solen PA Series Polypropylene Fastcaps that I had already been broken in.
I am convinced that the Solens are definitely worth upgrading to.
Next on my list is to replace the 3 iron core coils with Solen air core units, and also considering a cap (or at least bypass cap) upgrade from the oem Wondercaps to something like the Jantzen Superior caps.
I might have to wait until spring to bring the Kappa 8s back home to work on, just too much commotion at my brothers place with visitors, pets etc, plus I like to have all my best tools on hand.
You should be able to find a good used ribbon replacement out there, I have seen them from time to time.
Be careful disassembling the emits, they have powerful & brittle magnets that can easily be damaged or shatter if they come together too quickly.
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Forgot about that 1400mfd cluster, that might be a challenge and then some with the large polypropylenes 🙂
Thanks for the heads up on the caps. I think I will try to do away with the crossovers altogether as an experiment and use the minidsp I already have and maybe the sub-amps that I have, before spending money on capacitors. But, before I do even that, I believe additional front to back cabinet bracing around the woofer area might help enclosure resonance. Maybe brace the woofer magnet to the rear panel. It is very close, anyway.
Sounds interesting.
If you install substantial bracing to the interior, would reducing the effective volume of the enclosure be a concern?
For bracing the woofer magnet, maybe something along the adjustable rear axle girdles would work, they use bolts/studs through the rear cover to preload the main bearing caps.
You want just a small preload, not heavy pressure.
If you install substantial bracing to the interior, would reducing the effective volume of the enclosure be a concern?
For bracing the woofer magnet, maybe something along the adjustable rear axle girdles would work, they use bolts/studs through the rear cover to preload the main bearing caps.
You want just a small preload, not heavy pressure.
I was thinking more in terms of just shimming between the rear of the magnet and the rear panel. I believe the depth of the cabinet is a little less than 6" inside to inside. The woofer is around that deep, so the gap at the rear of the magnet is something like 1" or a little less, though I haven't measured yet. The lower rear panel sounds like a drum when giving it the knuckle rap test compared to my diy speakers, and I would install one or two stiffening ribs probably horizontally and a couple pieces 1x1x6 bracing fore and aft. Total volume reduction would be a few cu. inches. If I removed the crossover, the final volume would be much the same as original. The guesstimated volume of the enclosure is a little over 2 cu ft.
8 Kappa rear tweeter polarity?
Does anyone know for sure if the polarity of the rear emit tweeter is wired the same as the front?
The only schematic I have seen indicates that the wire marked with green/black band is connected to the +ve terminal of the rear speaker, but when I removed the shorted stock(I think, judging by the quality of the connection) rear tweeter, the green/black wire was connected to the -ve speaker terminal.
BTW, these Kappas are now my main speakers. Wonderful for orchestral music, and not too shabby on everything else I listen to.
Peter
Does anyone know for sure if the polarity of the rear emit tweeter is wired the same as the front?
The only schematic I have seen indicates that the wire marked with green/black band is connected to the +ve terminal of the rear speaker, but when I removed the shorted stock(I think, judging by the quality of the connection) rear tweeter, the green/black wire was connected to the -ve speaker terminal.
BTW, these Kappas are now my main speakers. Wonderful for orchestral music, and not too shabby on everything else I listen to.
Peter
The schematics for both the Kappa 8s and 9s show the front and rear tweeters with the same polarity.
For both speakers, the crossover components are always on the + side of the driver.
You can double check that this is the way it is, just in case someone mixed up the wire connections to the crossover board.
There are a few mistakes on some of the schematics though, so there could be a mixup.
I can check my old 8s, or on my buddies pair the next time I see either of them.
Interesting to note that the Betas have reversed the polarity on the rear firing tweeters though.
For both speakers, the crossover components are always on the + side of the driver.
You can double check that this is the way it is, just in case someone mixed up the wire connections to the crossover board.
There are a few mistakes on some of the schematics though, so there could be a mixup.
I can check my old 8s, or on my buddies pair the next time I see either of them.
Interesting to note that the Betas have reversed the polarity on the rear firing tweeters though.
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Thanks for the info.
I haven't touched the tweeters since replacing the damaged rear one or checked the crossover wiring. They sound good so I won't mess with them until I get the urge!
I have played with polydome alternatives though and found that the 3" Tang Band bamboo driver suits my tastes better than Dayton 2" mid dome. The Dayton has more detail but gave a strange touch to some acoustic recordings, xylophone in particular. They sound a bit like wind chimes!
Peter
I haven't touched the tweeters since replacing the damaged rear one or checked the crossover wiring. They sound good so I won't mess with them until I get the urge!
I have played with polydome alternatives though and found that the 3" Tang Band bamboo driver suits my tastes better than Dayton 2" mid dome. The Dayton has more detail but gave a strange touch to some acoustic recordings, xylophone in particular. They sound a bit like wind chimes!
Peter
Would be interesting to hear how those compare to the oem polydome in overall performance.
I take it you have not had that chance, because your original ones needed repair/replacement.
I've always enjoyed the sound of the 8s myself, and I never get tired of listening to them.
They are a little heavy on the bass for some recordings, but if you bi-amp they are easy to turn down with minmal degradation.
I find it tough sometimes to make a choice, when there are tradeoffs between components.
Even after evaluating options for awhile, I have found that my preference can change over time.
I take it you have not had that chance, because your original ones needed repair/replacement.
I've always enjoyed the sound of the 8s myself, and I never get tired of listening to them.
They are a little heavy on the bass for some recordings, but if you bi-amp they are easy to turn down with minmal degradation.
I find it tough sometimes to make a choice, when there are tradeoffs between components.
Even after evaluating options for awhile, I have found that my preference can change over time.