You won't believe what hapenned. I was done with the filter design, the FR was fixed.
I SAVED the configuration and when I wanten to open it again to copy it to the second speaker, it was gone. All the work was for nothing and i'll have to do it all over again.
Worts can't describe how frickin pissed I am. Just unbelievable.
I will be reporting this problem to Hypex because it has happend before. The "save" function is faulty.
I SAVED the configuration and when I wanten to open it again to copy it to the second speaker, it was gone. All the work was for nothing and i'll have to do it all over again.
Worts can't describe how frickin pissed I am. Just unbelievable.
I will be reporting this problem to Hypex because it has happend before. The "save" function is faulty.
sorry, my bad, i thought the comparsion where between bliesma 34mm vs bliesma 25mm, did not understand it where against s-s
Not for nothing. Your skills maybe sharpened in the process, setting the filters with DSP is a fun part anyway, the icing on the cake of loudspeaker building.
+1
May i ask something Threeway: i was looking at your graph more closely and i wonder if the ones on left corners are the different iteration in chronological order?
Because if this is the case i have a suggestion for you to try: you seems to have boosted the lows from your third iteration. Try the other way around attenuating mids and highs ( thanks to a high shelve eq with freq around 2khz or a bit lower).
It may change the overall result toward more sweetness and transparency* depending on the hardware ( i haven't heard your hypex so can't speak of but whitnessed it on other brands ( dbx, Bbs,...).
Worth a try.
* for the same final target than the one arrived to
May i ask something Threeway: i was looking at your graph more closely and i wonder if the ones on left corners are the different iteration in chronological order?
Because if this is the case i have a suggestion for you to try: you seems to have boosted the lows from your third iteration. Try the other way around attenuating mids and highs ( thanks to a high shelve eq with freq around 2khz or a bit lower).
It may change the overall result toward more sweetness and transparency* depending on the hardware ( i haven't heard your hypex so can't speak of but whitnessed it on other brands ( dbx, Bbs,...).
Worth a try.
* for the same final target than the one arrived to
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Hey I found genuine wool felt for a managable price. The piece I was looking at before that cost €240 was 5 mm thick and a much larger piece than I would need. Appart from being too big, the 5 mm thickness wouldn't be practical anyway.
I found 3 mm pieces of the right size which are much more affordable. So I will be applying the felt again since genuine felt does seem to be beneficial acoustically. And also for aesthetic reasons. I'm not a fan of the 2-way floorstander look. You know, floorstanding speakers with only a tweeter and midwoofer on the baffle. With the woofers on the sides my speakers kinda look like that from the front. The felt kinda fills up the big empty surface of the baffle and I'm affraid it won't look good without the felt. So I'm happy I can apply genuine wool for a good price.
I found 3 mm pieces of the right size which are much more affordable. So I will be applying the felt again since genuine felt does seem to be beneficial acoustically. And also for aesthetic reasons. I'm not a fan of the 2-way floorstander look. You know, floorstanding speakers with only a tweeter and midwoofer on the baffle. With the woofers on the sides my speakers kinda look like that from the front. The felt kinda fills up the big empty surface of the baffle and I'm affraid it won't look good without the felt. So I'm happy I can apply genuine wool for a good price.
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You do live up to your signature, Washing and Carting your own wool. Personally i would hesitate putting wool in, that your are not sure free of Living creatures. Your speaker might come litteraly alive after Some time
I would advise to bite the dust, and buy some wool from Jantzen. Yes it May be more expensive, put it is properly cleaned and only need to be fluffed real good.
Also I would suggest to buy the felt from Them. It has the right thickness and density. It is to my knowledge made from recycled fabrics. It is garanteed better than the thinner wool-felt in your link. IMO it is to thin. Troels Gravesen use wool and felt from Jantzen, so you Can look pictures on his site (IMO he should fluff it more, but it May not matter that much).
Your experience with bitumen, resembles mine. To be very effective, it should be placed between to materials (wood) with Glue that has the right viscoelastic properties. There is a Great experiment on an German page, that shows How it is most effective - energy between the layers are basically converted to heat. This happens most effectively, when bitumen, and the two layers of wood, have the proper ratio of thickness. It is NOT about making it as thick as possible.
Bitumen adds weight though. I personally Will never again buy bitumen. After some years it starts to release some weird smell.
I would advise to bite the dust, and buy some wool from Jantzen. Yes it May be more expensive, put it is properly cleaned and only need to be fluffed real good.
Also I would suggest to buy the felt from Them. It has the right thickness and density. It is to my knowledge made from recycled fabrics. It is garanteed better than the thinner wool-felt in your link. IMO it is to thin. Troels Gravesen use wool and felt from Jantzen, so you Can look pictures on his site (IMO he should fluff it more, but it May not matter that much).
Your experience with bitumen, resembles mine. To be very effective, it should be placed between to materials (wood) with Glue that has the right viscoelastic properties. There is a Great experiment on an German page, that shows How it is most effective - energy between the layers are basically converted to heat. This happens most effectively, when bitumen, and the two layers of wood, have the proper ratio of thickness. It is NOT about making it as thick as possible.
Bitumen adds weight though. I personally Will never again buy bitumen. After some years it starts to release some weird smell.
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^ this technique is known as CLD ( constrained layer damping). You are right about thickness the point being to rely upon shear force through the viscoelastic material (to be converted into heat).
Once thickness growth you tends toward mass damping.
Threeway: is the 8khz notch a result from the shape of box?
About eq yes i found it too: better results by attenuation. But it depends as sometime both works equally well ( if calcul in dsp are done floating point for example). This has to be tried.
Attenuation should* help increasing headroom overall.
*: here again one have to be cautious as it is not always the case in digital hence the need for real life test imho.
Once thickness growth you tends toward mass damping.
Threeway: is the 8khz notch a result from the shape of box?
About eq yes i found it too: better results by attenuation. But it depends as sometime both works equally well ( if calcul in dsp are done floating point for example). This has to be tried.
Attenuation should* help increasing headroom overall.
*: here again one have to be cautious as it is not always the case in digital hence the need for real life test imho.
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I don't think the wool should come alive after being washed properly? I don't think anything in the wool will survive a night long bath in soda and soap. My wool sweaters haven't grown legs either . I'll do a little research on how wool will behave over time. But I think it will be fine if washed properly.
I wasn't planning on carding it. I think it would be fine to use in the shape it is? It is now in fluffy balls. Like it came right from the sheep.
For the damping between the panels and bracing I wasn't necessarily thinking of using bitumen. Rather just a thick layer of adhesive. But I'll have to look into what's most effective.
. I'll do a little research on how wool will behave over time. But I think it will be fine if washed properly.I wasn't planning on carding it. I think it would be fine to use in the shape it is? It is now in fluffy balls. Like it came right from the sheep.
For the damping between the panels and bracing I wasn't necessarily thinking of using bitumen. Rather just a thick layer of adhesive. But I'll have to look into what's most effective.
The 8,1 kHz dip you mean? Can't tell since I can't compare it to another enclosure. But might very well be the case. The radius of the round part is 8.2 cm which is about two 8,1 kHz wavelenghts. There were two of these dips. If you soom in on measurment 7 on the left you can see it. The second one was at about 6.9 kHz.
I'll have to get the hang of the VirtuixCAD to be able to find out about this.
Ps. Remember to use only luke warm water, so that is does not schrink to nothing
I will
they recommend about 30 degrees celsius.
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