in my situation which FR could you be married?

Than FHXL is probably best you can get from single drivere for big room, everything else will be large boxes
(y)

Also consider designs which incorporate two identical full range drivers per box. Double the power handling, significant increase in efficiency, potentially unique listening experience and aesthetics.
it's what i'm thinking, 1x6-8" or 2 pieces smaller if it bring something or not to complicate to make

4. Most modern music has a lot of LF energy in the ~60-120hz area so you can use an enclosure that emphasizes this (e.g. DCR) or apply some eq. In my experience this is what a lot of people are actually looking for when they want bass output of their enclosure (rather than actual low frequencies such as 30hz which is rare in most music).
this the reason why i was build sub with my dcx2496 i can make an eq
5. For me the high frequencies of this driver are sufficient (at least on-axis), but not as good as the 3-4inch MA drivers can be. The smaller ones also have better off-axis response.
this is what i'm bit afraid or it goes in direction of a multidriver enclosure....
so if I was forced to be 'wedded' to one currently available it would be this 15" co-ax
you have luxury tastes;)
As always I only read half of opening post before answering :rolleyes: -I see you already have x-over and subs. I wonder if your amp can be tinkered into digital loop instead of preoutmainin. Then you could bypass the oldfassioned adc`s/dac`s of your behringer using its digital in/outs
You have dac but your NAD allready has plenty good DAC build in no?
i use te dac for what it comes from my pc/streaming
All in all your NAD should be plenty good and shouldn`t be object for upgrading sound. Only reason to change would be if you want other features. Maybe you want to go all digital? I would change x-over to analogue or change amplifiers to digital input ones Some swich before your Behringer to change input? Then you wont need the preamp part of your NAD so you could sell it and get cheaper poweramp instead. For subwoofer Inuke amps from Behringer are plenty good. If you get one of the dsp versions I guess you could sell your DCX 2496 also :D
i don't really know if i change something at the moment just i know i have had a great listening experience with a lamp tube amp at friends home


sure my chr70.3 are not powerful enough for 55m² at the momment in my 25m² i see it's too limit because it's wide (5.5m) the sound stage is not as good as it could be and i listen frequency reponse diferencies when i'm not on axis
like you see on the second hand market there is not so much serious FR
 
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you have luxury tastes;)
For my times, yes, though there's far more expensive nowadays that I can't afford, but I was 'spoiled rotten' at a very young age by the sound systems in Atlanta's 1940s - 70s Cinema Palaces (Avatar), so Altecs have been in my life since I started working full time and will be the last thing I sell if forced out of my home before the 'Grim Reaper' arrives.
 
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You also mentioned coaxial...

This W6-2313 is quite good. There's an XO I like towards the end of the thread. It will go down to pair with your subs.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/tb-new-line-of-coax-fr-drivers.324159/

Or, go full range but woofer assisted. Trouble with one driver is if you go big, you get more low end grunt, but the highs fall quickly. If you go small, the highs are nice, but the bass drops quickly.

One of the very good and easy to build is the 10F+RS225. Lots of great reviews. Especially the TL for low end support. But you might just go with the sealed version with your dual sub support.
 
....and why you should ideally choose based on the mean as the pioneers initially did, so for an 80 Hz XO, then sqrt(80*20000) = ~1265 Hz = ~34400/pi/1265 = ~8.657 cm/3.41" piston dia. in a huge WG/horn or break it up into co- or tri-ax drivers as they did to reduce size/cost. ;)
 
For my times, yes, though there's far more expensive nowadays that I can't afford, but I was 'spoiled rotten' at a very young age by the sound systems in Atlanta's 1940s - 70s Cinema Palaces (Avatar), so Altecs have been in my life since I started working full time and will be the last thing I sell if forced out of my home before the 'Grim Reaper' arrives.
I understand that you can get married with something other ;)


You also mentioned coaxial...

This W6-2313 is quite good. There's an XO I like towards the end of the thread. It will go down to pair with your subs.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/tb-new-line-of-coax-fr-drivers.324159/

Or, go full range but woofer assisted. Trouble with one driver is if you go big, you get more low end grunt, but the highs fall quickly. If you go small, the highs are nice, but the bass drops quickly.

One of the very good and easy to build is the 10F+RS225. Lots of great reviews. Especially the TL for low end support. But you might just go with the sealed version with your dual sub support.
yes i have mentioned coaxial, i have no experience with this, i have only listen a 12" coaxial alone in the APG sonorisation system but it's not a good memory, it was missing high frequency

For GM i don't understand what you want to tell, can you explain?
 
Agree with GM. Need big, high-sensitivity driver (pref coax if 1-driver required) to be dynamic in that large of a space (even with subs). In small rooms, the existing 4" could be fine. Depends on what you're used to and upon your expectations (ever lived with 100+dB speakers?). If you seek effortless & dynamic in 55m^2, the little single drivers will be straining and you will hear it. You could relax the criteria on driver choices or perhaps check smaller sizes of pro coaxes. When I cut corners, I remember that forever; when I spend extra for a good tool, I enjoy it every use--if you are only going to marry one driver, take your time to choose well.
 
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My W6-2313 do not miss anything in the highs. Very balanced once you hit the right XO.

I forgot to link the 10F&RS225
Here you go:

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/10f-8424-rs225-8-fast-waw-ref-monitor.273524/

ScanSpeak 10F/8424 and RS225-8 is still up there for best sound quality. You can make a variant with Visaton B80 that’s about as good. If you want a single driver with some bass, TangBand W5-2143 is excellent.

Also, 3FE22 or 3FE25 is also very good.
 
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Well totally different animals. The WAW has bass and sounds like a large 2 way speaker but the imaging of a full range.

The W5-2143 has enough bass in a reflex box that it can almost be as good as a WAW with woofer support.

The PA130-8 in a Karlsonator has some nice bass and is a single driver fullrange.
 
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Everyone has different expectations of what kind of driver is sufficient for a certain setup.

For example, my wife would be happy enough with some 3” drivers and some elevator music.
Myself, I love to listen to movies at near THX levels. But also some small venue jazz.

As previously mentioned, a FR is a compromise, either up high or down low.
You can talk about it all year, and still wonder if it is the right choice for you.

Pick one, build it, listen to it. Does it fulfill what you need?
Yes? You’re happy.
No, well, you now have learned something for yourself. Put that speaker in the bedroom, or sell it to your neighbor, and try another design.

Alors, bonne chance!
 
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Now for my new project i want to make a 55 sqm listening room…. 2 CHR70.3/ 7,2HD it’s not enough. I will be between 2,50 to 4 m at the listening point, the room is 5,5 m large. I want a depth in the sound image. the more realistic as possible, not boring really dynamic, nearest the of top of the line.
FIFTY FIVE sqm room for listening?????? o_O

You need some serious firepower!

I have built some simple MLTL boxes with various small FR drivers. Most of the time MLTL sound just amazing. they have everything you need for casual listening: crisp and nice voice zone, not so shouty highs and even some bass. But only up to 70-80dB listening levels. Then they start to distort badly, the size of those drivers is not made for serious volume when used without woofer assistance. in 55 sqm room there is even less chance you will enjoy listening in any box. There will be simply not enough SPL until unpleasant distortion.

Probably the best bet would be to split FR duties between drivers, that is subs or WAW/FAST. I have over 10 different fullrange drivers (no Markaudio... ) but I like only a few, PS95-5 is my favorite. FR drivers tend to show lower IMD distortion when paired with... Another drivers for bass duties.

DCX 2496 has EQ and active crossover functionality?
If the room and listening position is pretty much symmetric with some luck you can build simple 2-way with woofer going very very low and cross at pretty high range - 300+Hz or up to 1kHz. This way you will not need separate subwoofer(-s) and FR driver of your choice will be relieved from playing sub-bass and bass.

Luck is needed for the combination of the listening, speakers positions and room modes.

Another simple way is to go with bigger FR drivers.
 
But if you made a WAW with 8in woofer and 2143 as the top, it would be fine.
Trouble with most TB drivers over 4” is they beam a lot. Even some of their 4” beam quite early. It’s strange as the cone don’t look so deep, but it’s a fact.
I’d go smaller if paired with a good 8” that can be crossed high enough to keep the power on the bigger cone.
Or go with the TB W8-1772. That one, strangely enough beams less than their 5”. But that’s another level of budget, and the 1772 will need EQ to sound good, but as the OP has active XO and EQ, than that could be an avenue.
 
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Le mieux serait probablement de diviser les tâches FR entre les conducteurs, c'est-à-dire les sous-marins ou WAW/FAST. J'ai plus de 10 haut-parleurs large bande différents (pas de Markaudio... ) mais je n'en aime que quelques-uns, le PS95-5 est mon préféré. Les haut-parleurs FR ont tendance à présenter une distorsion IMD plus faible lorsqu'ils sont associés à... Un autre pilote pour les basses.

Le DCX 2496 dispose d'un égaliseur et d'une fonctionnalité de crossover actif ?
quels drivers as-tu ? ça me permet d'éliminer une partie du choix ?
yes the DCX have a equalizer and active cross over