A couple things I've read so far ... Baffle step compensation when going active is a non issue.
Don't concern yourself with it.
If you're going 3 way ... using a 1-1/4" CD is not required. I'd stick to a 1" CD/horn combination.
The "Monk" looks like a good system as all the work has been done. If you decide to go with a larger 2 way, be prepared to do some research/work in choosing the drivers. There are a dozen ways to skin the cat
Pick a "look" you can live with and work the design backward. It's a rabbit hole but it can/should be fun, too.
Don't concern yourself with it.
If you're going 3 way ... using a 1-1/4" CD is not required. I'd stick to a 1" CD/horn combination.
The "Monk" looks like a good system as all the work has been done. If you decide to go with a larger 2 way, be prepared to do some research/work in choosing the drivers. There are a dozen ways to skin the cat
Pick a "look" you can live with and work the design backward. It's a rabbit hole but it can/should be fun, too.
Good Advice, IMO a nice WaveGuide with a good 1" CD & 8" woofer would be a killer speaker, if mor ebass is needed add a pair of subwoofers.The "Monk" looks like a good system as all the work has been done. If you decide to go with a larger 2 way, be prepared to do some research/work in choosing the drivers. There are a dozen ways to skin the cat
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Umm, dont we have professional speaker designers right here in diyaudio? Who (perhaps) would love to get the employment at this time?
Maybe OP should ask - directly - he may end up better off than "a commercial speaker or documented DIY solution" for the $ he's planning on spending somewhere.
AllenB, I've found that this issue when using DSP is/can be approached in a different way. Shelve up the bass frequencies, which will be room dependent, and you're golden. The frequency response is most important after all.
Lol, every admin here is on that level and comments freely on a daily basis...
There are several if not dozens of high level loudspeaker engineers posting daily
This forum is literally the free consultation
This thread is what happens when you get many opinions, of various perspectives. Its usually the OP who directs the "meeting"...
Is where we are at...we just need more input from Flaxxer about the discussion hes generated so far...4000 dollars should build an impressive system...we as lovers of this trade, get excited at the idea of being apart of creating something beautiful.
I did neglect the part where the OP needs to be able to take measurements... we can guide him through that process as well. Does he understand that this is a requirement for him to build his system? This needs to be addressed by Flaxxer...
If he is not looking to be that involved, then a proven design is the answer
Ecowave, Monkey Coffin, Calpamos etc etc
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I am not sure where the "no measurements" thing came from. I was ALWAYS going to measure everything. I have a UMC1 mic already. Just have to learn.
I was NEVER just going to throw drivers in a random sized and shaped cabinet, without concerning myself with BSC.
It is true, I am ignorant on this. But I am in the stages of deciding WHAT I need to meet my goals. When I started, seeing an all Illuminator speaker at 93db efficiency seemed great. Then process eliminated that choice, and led me to a backup plan ( I did not have )
This is why I have covered so much ground, and changed plans along the way. This thread is exactly what I needed to help educate myself on how to get what I am after.
I now understand I am looking at Pro Audio, high efficiency, and great highs as my goals.
I could go horns IF I knew what I was doing. I have no clue about horns.
I MAY have a design to build. Just waiting to hear back from a member.
Lastly, someone mentioned paying a designer to help. I may not have that kind of money, but I was never going to allow anyone to help me much without compensation of some kind. Even if it were some audio gifts, if money wasn't their thing so much. I may be poor, but I'm not cheap! LOL
I was NEVER just going to throw drivers in a random sized and shaped cabinet, without concerning myself with BSC.
It is true, I am ignorant on this. But I am in the stages of deciding WHAT I need to meet my goals. When I started, seeing an all Illuminator speaker at 93db efficiency seemed great. Then process eliminated that choice, and led me to a backup plan ( I did not have )
This is why I have covered so much ground, and changed plans along the way. This thread is exactly what I needed to help educate myself on how to get what I am after.
I now understand I am looking at Pro Audio, high efficiency, and great highs as my goals.
I could go horns IF I knew what I was doing. I have no clue about horns.
I MAY have a design to build. Just waiting to hear back from a member.
Lastly, someone mentioned paying a designer to help. I may not have that kind of money, but I was never going to allow anyone to help me much without compensation of some kind. Even if it were some audio gifts, if money wasn't their thing so much. I may be poor, but I'm not cheap! LOL
This is as wrong as it gets. Baffle step has nothing to do with how the filter is done. Compensating baffle step in the filter works the same for passive and active filters.
Oh, you meant building a baffle step circuit for an active system, which already has the capability of compensating for any baffle step loss, would be easier.Oh, you meant putting a filter in place could be easy work. My bad
What is the difference between shelving the bass frequencies a few db vs attenuating the lower mid range on up a few db? I get the same result,without a few db of sensitivity loss, using DSP.
I don't think there is a difference. When I think how the BSC would usually be implemented in Hypex Filter Designer software, I do not think it would matter which way you go... it WILL effect the gain value you need to get the woofer and mid-driver matched up, but that is set by measurement anyway.
j.
I read somewhere that you assume that 100% signal strength before distortion happens is used as the baseline, so shelving makes sure that you don't go over the limit and in to distortion.
I guess it doesn't matter much in the end as long as you know where you are at in regards to every components limit.
But I do try to use the same idea when I use equalizer, I turn things down instead of up.
I guess it doesn't matter much in the end as long as you know where you are at in regards to every components limit.
But I do try to use the same idea when I use equalizer, I turn things down instead of up.
What "frangus" said about not encouraging the inexperienced to waste their money was the best advice anyone could have given. If OP decided on pro drivers and a relatively large mid he might want to consider The Loudspeaker by Troels G. There are other threads here which deal with large drivers (Beyond the Ariel, Geddes, etc.) which were championed by people proficient in speaker design and had a certain following which provided critical feedback. If wanted to experiment on top of that the OP might undertake to set up such a design as active multi-amped to try changes but at least they would always have the option to fall back onto the tried and true recommended Xover.
Everything else like sharing opinions about this driver and that driver and this Xover point and that Xover point etc is just rambling with little merit without designing in Vituix or similar sftw while guided by target design criteria which will always be a compromise. There is no perfect speaker design. There is only a design good for a particular application and personal preference, and then there may be drivers and enclosures which are a good fit for the job.
I often get an impression though that some just want to have a thread as a social platform that gathers people who ramble and take pleasure in "designing a speaker" by proxy. Actually designing one is a lot of work and costs quite a bit (especially if iterations of passive Xover parts and passive EQ are to be tried).
Everything else like sharing opinions about this driver and that driver and this Xover point and that Xover point etc is just rambling with little merit without designing in Vituix or similar sftw while guided by target design criteria which will always be a compromise. There is no perfect speaker design. There is only a design good for a particular application and personal preference, and then there may be drivers and enclosures which are a good fit for the job.
I often get an impression though that some just want to have a thread as a social platform that gathers people who ramble and take pleasure in "designing a speaker" by proxy. Actually designing one is a lot of work and costs quite a bit (especially if iterations of passive Xover parts and passive EQ are to be tried).
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Flaxxer, if you already have (or decided) four 3012LF for bass (2 per side), then I visualize a TMWW or MTWW (depending on box and main listening position height) with a 8" mid (the mentioned 8PR155 would be a good choice for example IMO) and an 1" CD+horn.
This is exactly what I am thinking about as an upgrade from a TMW with the same woofer and a 6" mid + 1"CD+horn using right now.
But I’m not in a hurry because that TMW already sounds very good and very loud to me, especially for home useage.
My advice would be to build a good box and let the fun part (and learning) begins with the xo.
This is exactly what I am thinking about as an upgrade from a TMW with the same woofer and a 6" mid + 1"CD+horn using right now.
But I’m not in a hurry because that TMW already sounds very good and very loud to me, especially for home useage.
My advice would be to build a good box and let the fun part (and learning) begins with the xo.
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