pfloydphan,
No you're fine on that neg terminal as far a using the screw , just shorten the wire as in directly to it.
Re-tighten the plate you need good contact with DC current.
I did find an excerpt on a Google search
". there are two power supplies in the Proxima DP 5800 Desktop Projector, one for the lamps and one for the fan. The problem could be a bad lamp power supply."
Not trying to steer you toward that just found it and figured I'd add it.
No you're fine on that neg terminal as far a using the screw , just shorten the wire as in directly to it.
Re-tighten the plate you need good contact with DC current.
I did find an excerpt on a Google search
". there are two power supplies in the Proxima DP 5800 Desktop Projector, one for the lamps and one for the fan. The problem could be a bad lamp power supply."
Not trying to steer you toward that just found it and figured I'd add it.
yeah i guess it could be that... because its doing the same ****. its making an arc sound. i shortened that wire too.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
LP5800 power supply/blinking
pfloydphan
On many of the LP350 power supplies that werebad the lamp would initially light but then just blink on & off with a sort of clicking or tapping sound. I immediately turned them off to preserve the lamp. The problem was def with the power supply though. It may help you out.
Jim
pfloydphan
On many of the LP350 power supplies that werebad the lamp would initially light but then just blink on & off with a sort of clicking or tapping sound. I immediately turned them off to preserve the lamp. The problem was def with the power supply though. It may help you out.
Jim
well my lamp has one large electrode and one small... i think that is DC. and the original lamp was the same way. i'm thinking the power supply died when i THOUGHT my lamp burned out, it made a loud popping sound and started to smoke. but before that i never had any problems... where can i get a new supply? and how would i install it. heh, i don't know crap about these things unfortunately so i'm guessing.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
lp350 Power Supplies
Dumbfounded ,
About 70 of the LP340 & a ton of 350 had bad power supplies mainly from poor design & overheating. I don't know the particulars as I am not an electronics Guru. I do have a repair man that does an excellent job at fixing them. I paid for parts which averaged about $6 each & he charged me for labor seperately bases on repairing about 70 or so. If anyone needs a power supply I can get theirs repaired or perhaps sell one, repaired & refurbished at $75 plus shipping.
Aside from LP340-350 lamp rebuilds my next project is LP500-530 lamp rebuilds. Any info out there is appreciated. I will write a complete report with pics on both rebuild processes along with any supplies & suppliers names & contact info if needed when completed.
Thanks,
Jim
Dumbfounded ,
About 70 of the LP340 & a ton of 350 had bad power supplies mainly from poor design & overheating. I don't know the particulars as I am not an electronics Guru. I do have a repair man that does an excellent job at fixing them. I paid for parts which averaged about $6 each & he charged me for labor seperately bases on repairing about 70 or so. If anyone needs a power supply I can get theirs repaired or perhaps sell one, repaired & refurbished at $75 plus shipping.
Aside from LP340-350 lamp rebuilds my next project is LP500-530 lamp rebuilds. Any info out there is appreciated. I will write a complete report with pics on both rebuild processes along with any supplies & suppliers names & contact info if needed when completed.
Thanks,
Jim
@pfloydphan....
It's still possible that you have the polarity wrong on the bulb. I'd guess that a DC bulb might still run for a short while if the polarity was wrong (as it is just an arc gap after all), but running it like this would seriously degrade the chemical processes that happen when the bulb is running (probably causing the bulb to go hazy and / or the arc to collapse / power supply to re-ignite etc.)
(The replacement bulbs don't always have prefectly clear glass, but it shouldn't go really cloudy either.)
If the positive connection on the original bulb was at the back, I personally wouldn't be confident that the ywh bulb would be the same unless I tested it with a multimeter AFTER the bulb is running. (btw, I already destroyed a multimeter by testing my X1 bulb 'cos I had the meter connected before the lamp ignited!).
Also, the JYd DC bulb I tried in an InFocus X1 worked for a few hours, but it didn't start when I tried it the next morning. This was probably because it was cracked right along the glass part! (most likely to do with me getting tons of plaster on the bulb - any contaminants on the glass part can cause a bulb to fail.)
So, I'm not sure if there is a specific problem with the life of the JYd DC bulbs on some ballasts, but this has been mentioned before.
Now, this may be a silly question, but are you hearing the arcing sound just before the lamp goes dark, or just before it re-ignites? If it's just before it re-ignites, then that would most likely be the spark gap in the power supply (which is normal for many projectors)?
Oh, and watch out for that "plastic" stuff used for lamp housings, 'cos it's usually that fairly conductive carbonized stuff that's great at causing unwanted arcs and short-circuits.
OzOnE.
Edit: A few other things I just thought of: @pfloydphan - are you sure that the Proxima definitely has a DC ballast? If you could find out a model number of the ballast or possibly post pictures of it, we might be able to discern which type it is.
Another silly question, but is the wire from the front of the bulb actually tightened under that screw? And does the ywh bulb have a similar arc gap length to the original bulb?
It's still possible that you have the polarity wrong on the bulb. I'd guess that a DC bulb might still run for a short while if the polarity was wrong (as it is just an arc gap after all), but running it like this would seriously degrade the chemical processes that happen when the bulb is running (probably causing the bulb to go hazy and / or the arc to collapse / power supply to re-ignite etc.)
(The replacement bulbs don't always have prefectly clear glass, but it shouldn't go really cloudy either.)
If the positive connection on the original bulb was at the back, I personally wouldn't be confident that the ywh bulb would be the same unless I tested it with a multimeter AFTER the bulb is running. (btw, I already destroyed a multimeter by testing my X1 bulb 'cos I had the meter connected before the lamp ignited!).
Also, the JYd DC bulb I tried in an InFocus X1 worked for a few hours, but it didn't start when I tried it the next morning. This was probably because it was cracked right along the glass part! (most likely to do with me getting tons of plaster on the bulb - any contaminants on the glass part can cause a bulb to fail.)
So, I'm not sure if there is a specific problem with the life of the JYd DC bulbs on some ballasts, but this has been mentioned before.
Now, this may be a silly question, but are you hearing the arcing sound just before the lamp goes dark, or just before it re-ignites? If it's just before it re-ignites, then that would most likely be the spark gap in the power supply (which is normal for many projectors)?
Oh, and watch out for that "plastic" stuff used for lamp housings, 'cos it's usually that fairly conductive carbonized stuff that's great at causing unwanted arcs and short-circuits.
OzOnE.
Edit: A few other things I just thought of: @pfloydphan - are you sure that the Proxima definitely has a DC ballast? If you could find out a model number of the ballast or possibly post pictures of it, we might be able to discern which type it is.
Another silly question, but is the wire from the front of the bulb actually tightened under that screw? And does the ywh bulb have a similar arc gap length to the original bulb?
i hear the arcing sound just before it goes out. then i shut it down quick before i can do any damage to my lamp... hopefully i guess.
my lamp housing is metal, i don't know if you saw the photos i had, i don't know if they can tell you anything about the polarity. but i emailed YMH with photos of my installation, maybe he can tell me if i have the + and - terminals wired up correctly.
but, i haven't tried the multimeter thing... just what setting does it need to be on to test?
my lamp housing is metal, i don't know if you saw the photos i had, i don't know if they can tell you anything about the polarity. but i emailed YMH with photos of my installation, maybe he can tell me if i have the + and - terminals wired up correctly.
but, i haven't tried the multimeter thing... just what setting does it need to be on to test?
Hi again,
Most digital multimeters have 20, 200, 2000 volt ranges, and most projector bulbs run at around 65 to 85 volts, so you should start with the meter on 2000 DC at first, just to be on the ever-so-slightly-safer-side!
Then, you need to be sure that the projector won't try to re-ignite the bulb while the meter is connected, 'cos it will FRY the multimeter, and is obviously more dangerous. So, if you're confident that the bulb runs for a fair few seconds before going out, you should be able to touch the meter probes onto the bulb connections AFTER it has ignited.
If you feel like trying this, and get a reading on the meter, you might find that the minus sign "-" appears on the meter, which means that the polarity of the bulb connections are reversed to what the colours of the probes suggest (ie. red = negative / black = positive).
Hopefully, you should also get a voltage reading, which might be helpful. If you don't get a voltage reading when holding the probes on the bulb for a few seconds, or only get a quick "burst" of reading when the probes are first connected, then the ballast might even be AC. If this happens, just switch the meter to AC instead and try again.
It does look like the ballast is probably DC though (judging by your previous posts about the original lamp).
Just a quick tip: please remember NOT to plug the probes into the current (AMPs) holes on the meter then try to measure the bulb again, 'cos this will cause a complete short circuit, or blow the meter up. Current measurements must always be done in series!!
OzOnE.
Most digital multimeters have 20, 200, 2000 volt ranges, and most projector bulbs run at around 65 to 85 volts, so you should start with the meter on 2000 DC at first, just to be on the ever-so-slightly-safer-side!
Then, you need to be sure that the projector won't try to re-ignite the bulb while the meter is connected, 'cos it will FRY the multimeter, and is obviously more dangerous. So, if you're confident that the bulb runs for a fair few seconds before going out, you should be able to touch the meter probes onto the bulb connections AFTER it has ignited.
If you feel like trying this, and get a reading on the meter, you might find that the minus sign "-" appears on the meter, which means that the polarity of the bulb connections are reversed to what the colours of the probes suggest (ie. red = negative / black = positive).
Hopefully, you should also get a voltage reading, which might be helpful. If you don't get a voltage reading when holding the probes on the bulb for a few seconds, or only get a quick "burst" of reading when the probes are first connected, then the ballast might even be AC. If this happens, just switch the meter to AC instead and try again.
It does look like the ballast is probably DC though (judging by your previous posts about the original lamp).
Just a quick tip: please remember NOT to plug the probes into the current (AMPs) holes on the meter then try to measure the bulb again, 'cos this will cause a complete short circuit, or blow the meter up. Current measurements must always be done in series!!
OzOnE.
what about those paper things that were in the housing originally? should i put them in? what do they do?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
5800
Hi,
You can check Ebay for a 5800 unit that justneeds a lamp or a parts machine (no guarantee on those though). Ask here if anyone has a source for a cheap used supply or a good unit without a lamp. I bought many parts & machines on Ebay. I may have one in stock, not sure, have to check. If I do I could lend you my lamp to find out what the trouble is. I'll let you know.
Heres a lamp on Ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/NIB-PROXIMA-PRO...ryZ15251QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Hi,
You can check Ebay for a 5800 unit that justneeds a lamp or a parts machine (no guarantee on those though). Ask here if anyone has a source for a cheap used supply or a good unit without a lamp. I bought many parts & machines on Ebay. I may have one in stock, not sure, have to check. If I do I could lend you my lamp to find out what the trouble is. I'll let you know.
Heres a lamp on Ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/NIB-PROXIMA-PRO...ryZ15251QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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