If they were twisted any tighter they would pull right out of the sockets
Not according to the picture you posted - and that is where it helps to have them come out of the output terminals heading towards each other.
Not according to the picture you posted - and that is where it helps to have them come out of the output terminals heading towards each other.
You obviously don't realize how stiff that wire is. I oriented the modules like this to keep both the speaker wires and input wires as short as possible. The amp had absolutely no noise. Could put my ear up to the tweeter full blast and hear silence. So good enough for me.
You obviously don't realize how stiff that wire is.
Obviously? Do you think I am using wire that is any thinner?
But proper twisting (and routing) is even more important than length.I oriented the modules like this to keep both the speaker wires and input wires as short as possible.
Have you checked with an oscilloscope that you don't have any oscillation?The amp had absolutely no noise. Could put my ear up to the tweeter full blast and hear silence.
We have been here before. Of course it is. As I wrote, the only reason I pointed out the issues was for the benefit of others. At least they can make an informed decision.So good enough for me.
Obviously? Do you think I am using wire that is any thinner?
But proper twisting (and routing) is even more important than length.
Have you checked with an oscilloscope that you don't have any oscillation?
We have been here before. Of course it is. As I wrote, the only reason I pointed out the issues was for the benefit of others. At least they can make an informed decision.
That wire isn't just thick it's extremely stiff. It's silver plated and it was twisted as tight as I could get it.
No didn't check with a scope but I'm not concerned. If the guy I sold it to is reading this, he can redo it if he's concerned.
That wire isn't just thick it's extremely stiff. It's silver plated and it was twisted as tight as I could get it.
I am sure you have good reasons to use that specific wire - I just think a tight, symmetrical twist is more important than any silver plating - but then again, I have worked far too much with high-speed, high-frequency transmission systems. Yes, it is hard to twist a stiff wire well, but, as I pointed out, having it come out the right way from the output terminals helps minimize the critical first loop.
I view checking for oscillation (all it takes is just hooking up a scope to the output pins) as a pretty essential piece of testing.No didn't check with a scope but I'm not concerned.
I guess that's where the "informed decision" comes in.If the guy I sold it to is reading this, he can redo it if he's concerned.
I am sure you have good reasons to use that specific wire - I just think a tight, symmetrical twist is more important than any silver plating - but then again, I have worked far too much with high-speed, high-frequency transmission systems. Yes, it is hard to twist a stiff wire well, but, as I pointed out, having it come out the right way from the output terminals helps minimize the critical first loop.
I view checking for oscillation (all it takes is just hooking up a scope to the output pins) as a pretty essential piece of testing.
I guess that's where the "informed decision" comes in.
Yeah well this was a DIY build. My new amps will have gold plated copper faston's, and the wire will be twisted tight right to the last MM. I didn't have all the latest state of the art AP measurement gear at my disposal then like the QC department I'll be using has today. If you want to do things at a professional level, you need the right tools.
While Juff is a little Obsessive Compulsive about twisting wires, but all unshielded pairs should be twisted. It reduces interference pickup. Jim Brown, the EMI/RFI expert is big on twisted pairs.
hypex ncore
I wonder if this is acceptable? I see a gap near the connection. 🙂
While Juff is a little Obsessive Compulsive about twisting wires, but all unshielded pairs should be twisted. It reduces interference pickup. Jim Brown, the EMI/RFI expert is big on twisted pairs.
I wonder if this is acceptable? I see a gap near the connection. 🙂

Here's my wiring in a Ghent monoblock case. I used 3.0mm2 silver-plated teflon-coated copper speaker wire and I have to admit it was a real nightmare to twist it tightly - took me a few goes with the help of a friend (having someone else helped a lot actually) and some needlenose pliers. The hardest part was fitting the ends into the terminals. Pix # 2 & 3 show how the wires should enter the terminals from the inside to avoid loops....
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here's my wiring in a Ghent monoblock case. I used 3.0mm2 silver-plated teflon-coated copper speaker wire and I have to admit it was a real nightmare to twist it tightly - took me a few goes with the help of a friend (having someone else helped a lot actually) and some needlenose pliers. Pix # 2 & 3 show how the wires should enter the terminals from the inside to avoid loops....
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Looks good. If I recall, I only had a couple short pieces of scraps to work with and no help.
If I was to do again, and had longer lengths, I'd put 1 end in a vice, and the other in a drill, pull tight and twist until as tight as can be. Then I would cut into appropriate lengths, and connect from the centre out like you did.
Thanks seems about rightAnd you specifically want to totally cut off the power (as opposed to using smps standby or nAmpon)?
Yes I do want to switch off completely not leave it in standby when not being used.
For 230V, a 10 A one should be more than enough, for 110V I would go 15 A.
If I was to do again, and had longer lengths, I'd put 1 end in a vice, and the other in a drill, pull tight and twist until as tight as can be. Then I would cut into appropriate lengths, and connect from the centre out like you did.
"If you want to do things at a professional level, you need the right tools."
The hardest part was fitting the ends into the terminals. Pix # 2 & 3 show how the wires should enter the terminals from the inside to avoid loops....
Indeed. A great example of how it *should* be done.
As a closure to my NCore quest, I ended up buying the Bel Canto Ref600m. I think it is overall better than than NC400 in this setup.
As a closure to my NCore quest, I ended up buying the Bel Canto Ref600m. I think it is overall better than than NC400 in this setup.
Awesome! Which areas in particular did you find better?
My other gear is much about sound stageing (MSB and Marten), and i think that part is better with BC than with NC400. NC400 is already quite good in that aspect. However with NC400 the sound stage is kinda smaller in the middle where the singer is. Hard to explain, but I like the BC better. Bass and slam are pretty much the same, maybe BC is just a notch darker sounding, but that can be tuned with cables.
Ah, one thing more. MSB Analoc DAC+NC400 caused some 50hz hum at certain volume levels (-35) while the combination was silent in others (like -34). Which I did not notice at first, since it was kinda discrete phenomena and could only be heard ear near the speaker. This feature was unpresent with both NAD M22 and BC 600. Could be just my NC400 build tho...I kept mine class 2.
Ah, one thing more. MSB Analoc DAC+NC400 caused some 50hz hum at certain volume levels (-35) while the combination was silent in others (like -34). Which I did not notice at first, since it was kinda discrete phenomena and could only be heard ear near the speaker. This feature was unpresent with both NAD M22 and BC 600. Could be just my NC400 build tho...I kept mine class 2.
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My other gear is much about sound stageing (MSB and Marten), and i think that part is better than with NC400. NC400 is already quite good in that aspect. However with NC400 the sound stage is kinda smaller in the middle where the singer is. Bass and slam are pretty much the same, maybe BC is just a notch darker sounding, but that can be tuned with cables.
Ah, one thing more. MSB Analoc DAC+NC400 caused some 50hz hum at certain volume levels (-35) while the combination was silent in others (like -34). This feature was unpresent with both NAD M22 and BC 600. Could be just my NC400 build tho...
Awesome stuff. Do you know anything about their input buffer implementation?
Nope. It has been advertised: "By using Bel Canto's custom Impedance Optimized Input Stage, the REF600M uses low noise and distortion amplifiers, precision film resistors, and audio grade power supply capacitors.". I suppose they have put some effort to it.
Nope. It has been advertised: "By using Bel Canto's custom Impedance Optimized Input Stage, the REF600M uses low noise and distortion amplifiers, precision film resistors, and audio grade power supply capacitors.". I suppose they have put some effort to it.
Excellent! Looks like a great design to me. Wish I could have a peek under the hood.
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