I just bought these to use with my Ncore monoblocks. Actually I use with my DAC also... One remote button switches all 3 on/off: https://energenie4u.co.uk/index.phpcatalogue/product/ENER002-4
Reminds me of the good old clapper! I might need to pick some up. But I wonder if it's smart enough to tell real claps from claps coming from the audio system?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ny8-G8EoWOw
Kind of a pity to have to duplicate the soft start that is already included in the smps. There has been a lot of discussion about power switching options earlier in this thread.
hypex ncore
Yeah but allows switching from that nice button, and powers the LED. It's the next best thing to the clapper.
Yeah but allows switching from that nice button, and powers the LED. It's the next best thing to the clapper.
Looking at that pic, I am a bit concerned by the output wiring. Seems it goes against Bruno's recommendation on the exit direction of the leads, and there is very little twisting in the critical first couple of centimetres (where the output leads run unnecessarily close to the modules).
It also looks like you are using a mains power socket with an in-line mains filter - again something Bruno recommended against.
Fully recognizing this was your first build, and you have probably changed those things in subsequent ones, but just wanted to make sure people didn't use those pics as an illustration of how to do it.
Can you elaborate on this? Why is lowering the gain increasing the feedback?
I have r141 removed for my HF amps, but not for my LF. And I have -12dB on LF channel now to get right relative level HF/LF.
Thinking about removing r141 for all amps...
When gain is lowered by increased feedback, the bandwidth increases and distorsion decreases. Your question is a bit strange - you control the gain by the amount of feedback - not the other way around.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Negative_feedback_amplifier
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Negative_feedback_amplifier
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Buy the nice machined stainless blue LED Bulgin push button off the Hypex webshop. But you'll need their soft start with it, or make your own supply. I used it with the soft start on my first build a couple years back and worked beautifully.
Very interesting but I would prefer to save a bit if possible by just using a mains switch on the front panel.
For a pair of modules in one box does anyone know what the amp rating should be for the switch on the front panel and mains cable amp rating from the wall socket.
BTW Bavmike what is the make and model of your case it looks very much like one I am thinking of using which is a Modu Pesante with 10mm front cover.
Because R141 forms part of the feedback loop - you lower the gain by increasing feedback.
And you specifically want to totally cut off the power (as opposed to using smps standby or nAmpon)?
For 230V, a 10 A one should be more than enough, for 110V I would go 15 A.
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Well it sounded perfectly fine. So your saying the wires are too short going to the XLR inputs?
No, not too short. But
- they should be more tightly twisted in the part that comes out of the modules
- they should exit the output terminals towards each other to minimize untwisted loop surface
- they should go out as far from the modules as possible before turning to run along the line of the back panel, instead of passing along the module.
Are you sure about that one?
I have never seen such an example, even in Hypex' own implementation.
It has been discussed a number of times in this thread, and I think it was originally stated in a posting by Bruno himself.
The point is that any untwisted part (so the segment from the actual output terminals to the first twisted section of your twisted pair) forms a loop that picks up noise.
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