It has been discussed a number of times in this thread, and I think it was originally stated in a posting by Bruno himself.
The point is that any untwisted part (so the segment from the actual output terminals to the first twisted section of your twisted pair) forms a loop that picks up noise.
In all the "good" examples I have seen the wires were exiting from the same side of the terminals.
eg: [Review] Hypex DLCP and NC400 listening test
hypex ncore
That build was done by Hypex themselves, and looks like the gap in the twists were about the same as mine at the output terminals.
Look at the one on the upper right.
In all the "good" examples I have seen the wires were exiting from the same side of the terminals.
eg: [Review] Hypex DLCP and NC400 listening test
That build was done by Hypex themselves, and looks like the gap in the twists were about the same as mine at the output terminals.
Look at the one on the upper right.

Indeed. A great example of how it *should* be done.
It's very tough to squeeze the wires "In between", more important is that they couple together very quickly upon leaving the terminals (though that's improved by mounting as shown) and go "up and over" in routing. If the output wire twist begins <1cm from the midpoint of the terminals (and is immediately next to them prior to that) it won't make a big difference to loop area IMO.
There's optimal but optimal is sometimes constrained by realities of cramming wires into that tight a space without a strand escaping or the like.
Power Switching
I have come accross a 12 amp switch by Schurter MSM19 which also has illumination either the point or ring. The illumination is 24dc so I assume that it could be energised by the aux.output on the SMPS600.
the only questions I have are this I will be switching both power supplies on/off but I only need to connect to one of the aux outputs of one supply will this unbalance things sound wise.
Also in the Schurter data sheet it says that a resistor is required if you use the ring illuminated switch but not required if it is point illuminated and I don't understand why.
I have come accross a 12 amp switch by Schurter MSM19 which also has illumination either the point or ring. The illumination is 24dc so I assume that it could be energised by the aux.output on the SMPS600.
the only questions I have are this I will be switching both power supplies on/off but I only need to connect to one of the aux outputs of one supply will this unbalance things sound wise.
Also in the Schurter data sheet it says that a resistor is required if you use the ring illuminated switch but not required if it is point illuminated and I don't understand why.
the only questions I have are this I will be switching both power supplies on/off but I only need to connect to one of the aux outputs of one supply will this unbalance things sound wise.
No - the additional load on the aux output should be minimal, and won't affect the sound.
Also in the Schurter data sheet it says that a resistor is required if you use the ring illuminated switch but not required if it is point illuminated and I don't understand why.
I think it is the other way around. The point illuminated models only have a simple led (and thus need a series resistor) but the ring illuminated models have a voltage regulator for 24, 12 or 5 volt (depending on model) for the light.
It's very tough to squeeze the wires "In between", more important is that they couple together very quickly upon leaving the terminals (though that's improved by mounting as shown) and go "up and over" in routing. If the output wire twist begins <1cm from the midpoint of the terminals (and is immediately next to them prior to that) it won't make a big difference to loop area IMO.
There's optimal but optimal is sometimes constrained by realities of cramming wires into that tight a space without a strand escaping or the like.
Indeed. And I admit it is something I have been rather OC about.
A quick search only found this posting where Bruno doesn't say the leads have to go out towards each other, only that having them going in opposite directions is a definite no-no:
do twist the speaker wiring and PLEASE do not have them come out of the opposing sides of the screw lugs. This makes a big pickup loop right next to the output inductor.
He does make the point about minimizing the untwisted loop.
I do remember there was another message clarifying the issue, but I can't find it now.
Anyway, this is a rather small detail, and as long as you don't have noise, hum or HF oscillation, there is no reason to worry.
If I was a commercial vendor, turning out a larger number of boxes, I would not go through the extra hassle (as it will slow down assembly and have a high risk of one or more strands of wire going astray and causing a short). An one-off DIY thing is another matter - I am surprised at the number of people who go through the trouble of using exotic wiring and even exchanging capacitors while ignoring this simple and cheap step in ensuring optimal performance, especially as this one isn't based on audiophile voodoo but sound engineering principles.
Have we obsessed enough about this one now? 🙂
Haha well we could always peel apart Cat5e Ethernet cable and plait multi strand wires for the ultimate noise rejection.
I made DIY Cat5e speaker cable once...took me a week of evenings to braid this stuff and crimp to QED connectors, bleeding fingers...I couldn't hear one iota of difference compared to my Blue Jeans cheap cable ...gave my efforts to a friend who thought he could hear a difference
I made DIY Cat5e speaker cable once...took me a week of evenings to braid this stuff and crimp to QED connectors, bleeding fingers...I couldn't hear one iota of difference compared to my Blue Jeans cheap cable ...gave my efforts to a friend who thought he could hear a difference
Why would anyone think that either cable would be better that just connecting all the solids to one terminal and all the strips to the other?Haha well we could always peel apart Cat5e Ethernet cable and plait multi strand wires for the ultimate noise rejection.
I made DIY Cat5e speaker cable once...took me a week of evenings to braid this stuff and crimp to QED connectors, bleeding fingers...I couldn't hear one iota of difference compared to my Blue Jeans cheap cable ...gave my efforts to a friend who thought he could hear a difference
Haha well we could always peel apart Cat5e Ethernet cable and plait multi strand wires for the ultimate noise rejection.
Even better, get some good, old landline telephone cable.
As a nice historical detail, balanced, symmetric twisted wire systems were introduced in the 1880's, as electrical trams started to cause interference and noise in the unbalanced, earth return telegraph lines in use at the time... 🙂
Why would anyone think that either cable would be better that just connecting all the solids to one terminal and all the strips to the other?
The idea is to keep the pvc jacket out of the mix- I think a 4 wire braid of 4 cat 5 de-jacketed would hold the assembly together just as well without all the work.
Good Monday Everyone!
Anyone else compared the nc400 to nc500 yet...thoughts? 🙂
(I don't mind if it's subjective/objective/blind/humid/tepid...good to get a general consensus going).
--Quite interested in the treble area; been reading things like rolled off so far for the nc500
Many thanks
Anyone else compared the nc400 to nc500 yet...thoughts? 🙂
(I don't mind if it's subjective/objective/blind/humid/tepid...good to get a general consensus going).
--Quite interested in the treble area; been reading things like rolled off so far for the nc500
Many thanks
The price tells you everything you need to know.
NC400 is still €325, NC500 OEM is €89.
The NC500 OEM is not an upgrade to the NC400, it's a different product for a different market.
NC400 is still €325, NC500 OEM is €89.
The NC500 OEM is not an upgrade to the NC400, it's a different product for a different market.
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€89!!! We are really being shafted ;-)
I bet the nc400 probably doesn't cost more than around €50 to make, including the Input Buffer (probably even less as in bulk)!
I bet the nc400 probably doesn't cost more than around €50 to make, including the Input Buffer (probably even less as in bulk)!
€89!!! We are really being shafted ;-)
I bet the nc400 probably doesn't cost more than around €50 to make, including the Input Buffer (probably even less as in bulk)!
And how much does it cost to make the $10,000 Audioquest Diamond Ethernet cable? 🙂
I have just received this email of censorship from the head man at Hypex.
"I don't know who you are. But I assume you have access to the OEM prices from Hypex. I would appreciate if you would respect our OEM business to not disclose the OEM prices in this open forum.
Please delete the posting with the prices!
Regards,
Jan-Peter van Amerongen
Director
Hypex Electronics BV"
The funny thing is that I only have the OEM prices because I sent an enquiry to Hypex about buying some connectors, and rather than taking the time to answer my question the support agent at Hypex HQ altered my webstore account giving me full OEM access, telling me to look it up myself. What great customer service.
Unlike other forums, here on DIYA I cannot delete my previous posts so have posted this to bring it to the attention of mods.
Both of my nCore 400 modules have failed well within their 2 year warranty period and required replacement. Hypex did this free of charge in both instances, with no quibble about the nature of the fault so I wonder how many times this is happening.
Hypex did not send me a single email informing me of any stage of either warranty return process, I had to keep checking the website every day to see if the RMA status had changed.
They were, however, extremely quick to jump on and respond to this. Maybe the mods will take care of it, I am not going to lose much sleep over failing to protect the exorbitant profit margins of corporations.
"I don't know who you are. But I assume you have access to the OEM prices from Hypex. I would appreciate if you would respect our OEM business to not disclose the OEM prices in this open forum.
Please delete the posting with the prices!
Regards,
Jan-Peter van Amerongen
Director
Hypex Electronics BV"
The funny thing is that I only have the OEM prices because I sent an enquiry to Hypex about buying some connectors, and rather than taking the time to answer my question the support agent at Hypex HQ altered my webstore account giving me full OEM access, telling me to look it up myself. What great customer service.
Unlike other forums, here on DIYA I cannot delete my previous posts so have posted this to bring it to the attention of mods.
Both of my nCore 400 modules have failed well within their 2 year warranty period and required replacement. Hypex did this free of charge in both instances, with no quibble about the nature of the fault so I wonder how many times this is happening.
Hypex did not send me a single email informing me of any stage of either warranty return process, I had to keep checking the website every day to see if the RMA status had changed.
They were, however, extremely quick to jump on and respond to this. Maybe the mods will take care of it, I am not going to lose much sleep over failing to protect the exorbitant profit margins of corporations.
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Lol I think we would all be very interested to know what the nc1200 costs!
'Doh' in the Homer Simpson style of headsmack to whomever let that price list out to a User
'Doh' in the Homer Simpson style of headsmack to whomever let that price list out to a User
Well I am not going to share that!
I clearly made a mistake by sharing that information, and would have edited the post myself to say something like "The NC500 costs considerably less than the NC400, so I doubt they are comparable in terms of performance", had I been informed before the edit timer ran out.
I clearly made a mistake by sharing that information, and would have edited the post myself to say something like "The NC500 costs considerably less than the NC400, so I doubt they are comparable in terms of performance", had I been informed before the edit timer ran out.
He he well appears we have a Whistle Blower on this thread or else the response would have been days....I wonder ;-)
The price tells you everything you need to know.
NC400 is still €325, NC500 OEM is €89.
The NC500 OEM is not an upgrade to the NC400, it's a different product for a different market.
For 1 you are comparing wholesale OEM pricing to retail pricing. And for 2, the NC500 has no input stage. My input stages for example cost more than the amp modules.
This is almost like saying a DAC chip in a $2000 DAC only costs $20. We are being ripped off.
Good Monday Everyone!
Anyone else compared the nc400 to nc500 yet...thoughts? 🙂
(I don't mind if it's subjective/objective/blind/humid/tepid...good to get a general consensus going).
--Quite interested in the treble area; been reading things like rolled off so far for the nc500
Many thanks
Did you catch 3LVIZ's comparison of the Bel Canto REF 600M with the NC400's?
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