I know they aren't NCore, but does anyone know what the data format is for the DSP control software to run the Hypex AS2.100? I have several driver measurements in FRD format, not sure how or if I can convert this. Any help would be appreciated.
I believe I read they take impulse response data, but no idea how to get it formatted correctly for the AS2.
Best,
Erik
I believe I read they take impulse response data, but no idea how to get it formatted correctly for the AS2.
Best,
Erik
Best to use those calibrated measurement microphones on each side of your head. If they are out of calibration, I wouldn't expect selling too many amps
I use a Leben preamp (phono 12AT7, line 6CG7) in front of my NC400s. Sounds great and has almost cured me from loving tube poweramp distortion...
Yesterday put a very high quality 12AT7 buffer on the input of the NC400, it was very nice indeed. Maybe not accurate, but it worked nicely. I have seen measurements where one stage's spectral distortion was measured and it went through another stage (line stage) and made changes to the same measurement that made it look different but did not actually add distortion in THD terms (already low), which is crazy because it was the line stage that was being measured. Yes, the distortion of the line stage was changed by the input/source. This was done by the late Allen Wright many years ago. So what is accurate? Good question.
But most people have to put a source before the NC400, so it will always be seeing something and people choose sources (and sauces too
Only issue is that I have faar to much gain for my effective Altec 604 speakers and I lose a fair amount of resolution/detail if I use the attenuated output on my Leben.
I use a Leben preamp (phono 12AT7, line 6CG7) in front of my NC400s. Sounds great and has almost cured me from loving tube poweramp distortion
Sounds like you need a NC500 based amp and just bypass the buffer. The best buffer is no buffer if you don't need it. I find a straight PCB trace is quite transparent
Best to use those calibrated measurement microphones on each side of your head. If they are out of calibration, I wouldn't expect selling too many amps
Well, as we know, I am just a robot, so fro me it is easy to ensure proper calibration. Too bad that is less easy to do for flesh-and-blood humans. The irony is that the imperfections of the human brain actually creates the illusion of a well calibrated system (despite reality).
OK, how about getting back on topic (hypex ncore, in case nobody remembers any more)?
Yes Ncore, and how the only way it will have a chance of taking over the world is by allowing it to sound like people want it to.
I use a Leben preamp (phono 12AT7, line 6CG7) in front of my NC400s. Sounds great and has almost cured me from loving tube poweramp distortion
Have you considered lowering the gain of the nc400's by changing or removing R141?
Yes I have. The thing is I dont like fiddling with the surface mount components. I might have to revert to original gain at a later date. bavmikes suggestion of getting a NC500 and bypassing the buffer or use buffer with 0 gain could be an option.
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Fair enough - the SMD resistor can be a bit fiddly to solder.
That does sound like a somewhat drastic solution to a simple gain issue.
Yes it is, that why I have lived with the gain issue for some years now
Still thinking taking a risk with maybe not being able to restore R141 on your existing nc400's is a smaller step than completely replacing them with nc500's.
This has been covered... but....
The 600 has a secondary supply that allows lower heat dissipation on the NC400 board, where the 1200 lacks this. Beyond that there's not a ton of reason, besides some very slight possible advantages of the dual 600 setup for noise/crosstalk/dynamic performance.
Don't remove just jumper it. Cut the jumper to normalize.
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remove R141 to get infinity resistance and lower gain
short? (jump) R141 to get zero resistance and ?
I actually wanted a bit more gain and tried 1K in parallel with R141 and left it like that before I sent the NC400 back to the client today.
I agree with Julf and others, removing R141 is the way to go. I am sure that you could find a competent tech to do it - it is actually even easier to remove an SMD resistor than fitting it back.
Cheers.
PS: Noted the Norsk flag - I have a brother in Kongsvinger.
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