I fully agree with that!
Now it would be nice if you would read the Hypex data sheets correctly and safe us your misconceptions; they are clear enough for anybody understanding Ohm's Law
Yes it's available now in our Purestream DAC. And shortly in our Purepower integrated amp. Compatible with any 990/2520 standard opamp. Including this DIY kit:
DOA-17 Discrete OpAmp, DIY OpAmp Kit for Microphone Preamp Upgrades - FiveFish Audio
I am not a DIY enthusiast so I really shouldn't be on this forum but I am hoping I can get some help regarding my Nord One Up stereo amp with the NCore NC500 chip.
I have a sticky power button problem (button refuses to pop back out to "off" position) which happens every few times I activate the power button. I eventually have to push the button back out from the inside. I have gone through 3 sets of power buttons and each one has the same problem. But once it is powered up, the amp works and sounds fine though.
Can anyone give me some feedback what the most likely reasons are that this is happening? Thanks in advance.
I have a sticky power button problem (button refuses to pop back out to "off" position) which happens every few times I activate the power button. I eventually have to push the button back out from the inside. I have gone through 3 sets of power buttons and each one has the same problem. But once it is powered up, the amp works and sounds fine though.
Can anyone give me some feedback what the most likely reasons are that this is happening? Thanks in advance.
Our latest DIY build. 2 channel in, 6 out. Preamp section has dual sets of balanced Bent Audio Slagleformer AVC volume controls (8 in total). The dual displays on the front go up and down simultaneously with the remote. The left indicates the level of the dual preouts that are connected to the 2nd set of Slagleformers. The right display is the level of the internal dual mono NC-500's. It's designed for a guy running an active tri-amped setup. If you press the right/left buttons on the remote, the output of the left (preouts) and right (internal amps) fades between each other. He will be connecting a pair of active subs up to one of the pre-outs, and a Nord amp up to the other to run his woofer section. So left turns up the mid/highs, and right turns up the woofers/subwoofers. Internally depending on the source driving the amp you can use the passive inputs and drive the NC-500's direct and buffer-less. For example when used with our Purestream DAC's with quad Weiss OP2-BP opamp gainstage with 10 ohm output impedance and 6V output. However if the source is weak, you can connect to the active inputs, press the button on the back to turn on the active stage, and our internal buffer with Quad Weiss OP2-BP's provides a buffer for the NC-500's beyond anything I've ever experienced
Attachments
Last edited:
I would contact Nord directly. I'm sure Colin will be able to help.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
That's a pretty expensive power button to be constantly failing. That's why I hate switching AC with a push button. Better to use low voltage and a relay if you want a front push button.
On Audioshark he claimed Colin has directly replaced the button 3 times. So this means he likely already tried that.
Thanks for your reply.
I have actually shipped my amp back to Colin at Nord. He says he cannot measure anything wrong and therefore thinks there is nothing to fix and is sending it back to me with the problem I am experiencing still there. So it has put me a fix since I really can't keep using the amp if I have to keep opening it to pull the power button back into position.
So far, some other DIY people have suggested that the amp puts out a surge at power on that fuses the button and to install something called a soft start circuit but Colin has said this already exists on the amp. So I am looking for other possible causes for it.
The SMPS1200A700 has a built in soft start, however it's still nice to use another soft start as it allows using a more reliable low voltage push button DC switch. Then all of the high voltage AC is handled by ultra reliable relays. That's the way we do it.
So it's alright to install another soft start on top of the built in one.
OK I will try to get my local technician to install one for me when I get my amp back. Thanks.
He supplied me a second switch and after it failed as well, I bought one on my own and used a different power cord just to be sure it wasn't something else causing it. When the third switch also failed, I sent it back to Colin to repair. With the third switch, it also tripped my ECB, so I thought it might be something more serious.
His reply to me was:
"Sorry been a while but apart from a sticky switch mechanical all is fine.
I have been testing it periodically and all is fine. DC offsets in tolerance. The resistors all look good also.
The slight pop you get sometimes on start up is we don't mute the amp module would of required further circuits and other manufactures don't do this either Acoustic Imagery etc."
So it sounds to me like he is able to duplicate the sticky switch but he did not confirm this when I asked him. But I think at this point, another switch is not going to help.
I think there are some misunderstandings about the hypex soft start. There is a built-in soft start/soft shutdown circuit, but it is activated by an external 3.3V-12V DC voltage signal that puts the power supply into standby.
That is what I use to power up/down my nc400/smps600's. I only use the physical mains switch when being away on a longer trip or in bad thunderstorms.
So no reason to install another soft start, just install a simple, low-power 6V DC supply (to start with, just try with a 4.5V battery to test it out).
The mute circuit is there on the SMPS. All that is needed is connecting the "Auto Amplifier Enable" output to the enable input on the amp. It should be part of the standard wiring harness.
What about the front button? What's going to allow it to function and power the LED? The Hypex soft start is only $40, it has a clean linear supply on board. It can power an LED for a nice Bulgin push button that would fit perfect in the existing cutout on the front. Much better option than putting a noisy Chinese SMPS in the box, and having a non functional front power button.
https://www.hypexshop.com/DetailServlet?detailID=1474
https://www.hypexshop.com/DetailServlet?detailID=1908