How would you modify Sony DVP NS900

[DIAR]

I would like to modify my cd/sacd/dvd player. I just installed so called Auricap tweak and I liked the results. http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/DIY/auricap/

What else can I do with my very limited knowledge of electronics? I would like to have more transparent and 3D soundstage. The stereo image is very flat and in your face. The depht of the soundstage is pathetic.
Of cource other components and acoustics are the most important factor in imaging but I think that the CDP is the weakest link at the moment. Here's my gear:
http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/munht/munht.html
http://cgi.audioasylum.com/systems/5593.html

Should I change some caps or something else. And which parts exactly should I change (which make a notable difference).

Here's what I found on DIYAudio.com:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9433&highlight=

Many good hints but I need more specifid advice.

Do you know any other usefull cd player modifying internet sites.

Heres some pictures of Sony DVP NS900:
http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/nikkarointi/puhdistus/sisajohto.jpg
http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/nikkarointi/puhdistus/ennen.jpg

http://hso.keskipiste.com/hso_images/8dvd4_screwed.jpg
http://hso.keskipiste.com/hso_images/120NS900-1.jpg
http://hso.keskipiste.com/hso_images/120NS900-2.jpg

Can somebody tell what do these circuit boards do. I can only guess.

Thanks!

 

[jean-paul]

http://www.ultranalog.com

Look for the SACD enhancer. A nice challenge for designing a neat looking/working pcb for it !!!

 

[DIAR]

That's too complicated for me but there's great info about the player itself on that site. Thanks!!

 

[DIAR]

So far I've changed analog output OPA to AD8065 and ordered a few Black Gate caps for DC coupling.

I'm going to change one of the oscillators to Tent Labs XO.

There are two oscillators in the player. One 16.5 MHz (not 16.9443) and one 27 MHz oscillator. How do I know or find out which one of these oscillators is more important?

About the PSU for XO. I'm going to get a separate transformer for the clock. Is this wise or should I use the one feeding both digital and analog boards.

What kind of transformer is best for this application? Toroidal or some other?

Thanks for answers!

 

[Davet]

Translation??

Is there an link to an English translation of your website??

 

[DIAR]

The pages are in finnish only because I try to provide something to the Finnish hifi enthusiasts. WWW is full of great articles written in english but there are only a hand full of Finnish pages.

So far this is the only article I have translated:
http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/DIY/preamp1/

 

[Davet]

Thanks

Thank you for the response. I enjoyed reading about your passive preamp. I was trying to figure out what you had done to your Sony NS900. A picture does take the place of a 1,000 words, but it would help if you could summarize what you did to your CDP.

I have read the diyAudio posts (incliding your 2 threads) about the NS900. Are there any other English text postings regarding this CDP?

Are there any other details you want to provide above and beyond what you have in the archives?

Beautiful preamp! I really admire your craftsman ship.

 

[DIAR]

I haven't changed many parts in my DVP NS900 but here's what I've done so far

1. I added an IEC socket to it:

before:
http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/DIY/auricap/obj52pg1geo235p5.jpg

after:
http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/DIY/auricap/obj54pg1geo236p5.jpg

http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/DIY/auricap/obj84pg1geo239p5.jpg

(I've changed those abiko's to insulated connectors)

2. I added two caps between hot and neutral (so called Auricap tweak). I used these caps:
http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/DIY/auricap/obj29pg1geo29p5.jpg

I placed them to an external box (picture without the cover)
http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/DIY/auricap/obj63pg1geo202p5.jpg

3. I damped the player. I used 7.5 kg/m2 rubber sheets (made for damping)
http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/DIY/varahtelyt/obj231pg1geo154p5.jpg
http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/DIY/varahtelyt/obj139pg1geo153p5.jpg
http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/DIY/varahtelyt/obj263pg1geo167p5.jpg

4. I damped the oscillators using rope caulk (I covered the caulk with thin plastic folio.
http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/DIY/varahtelyt/salpakitti.jpg

5. I made DIY Rollerblocks for coupling and isolation (sounds better than Ceraballs but I hate the rocking motion when pushing buttons)
http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/DIY/rollerblock/proto.jpg

6. I made an insulation platform using inner tube
http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/DIY/varahtelyt/obj54pg1geo32p5.jpg
http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/DIY/varahtelyt/obj183pg1geo84p5.jpg

Platform issue needs a lot of experimenting. I'm not convinced that this is the best configuration.

7. I changed the OPA in analog output NJM4580 >> AD8065
http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/DIY/cdout/obj68pg1geo14p5.jpg
http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/DIY/cdout/obj87pg1geo53p5.jpg

These tweaks have been very good and I strongly recommend trying those as they cost nothing or atleast very little. The sound has changed radically. I longed for a new player for a long time but now I'm very satisfied with this one. I had ROTEL, REGA and Cambridge Audio for a few days for testing and they couldn't beat my Sony (partly because of the demanding preamp of mine).

 

[Davet]

NS900 Tweaks

Thank you so much for taking the time and putting forth the effort to address my inquiry. I have a SACD player whose sound that I don't particularly like. Your efforts have given me a number of things I can pursue to, possibly, improve the sound.

I have used roller blocks and inner tubes under digital sources and I must agree they better the sound in my system. I will be trying a number of your successes. I will post my findings.

Again thank you.

 

[DIAR]

No need to thank me. I'm just trying to give something back to this Forum as it has helped me in several questions (many has been answered using the search button 😉 )

I forgot to mention my DIY power cord. I haven't been experimenting much with different power cords because I don't believe in them. If someone knows an internet site with convinsing explanation why I should believe in different sounds between power cords, I would gladly read it.

Well anyway. I've made a few power cords of my own. The other one is Supra Lorad (nothing special) and the other one is self braided.
http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/DIY/virtakaapeli/
I also made an extension cord using shielded Ölflex cable.
http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/nikkarointi/virtakaapeli/virtakaapeli.html
(check out the links (pics) to other diy projects! )

The idea is borrowed from several places. If you are interested in these, you should klick on the internet links shown on the page which were the most essential.

I noticed changes in sound when changing the cables but I think that it was due to changing the position of the plug in the socket (didn't bother to check the "polarity"). Changing between hot and neutral has an effect to sound as everyone knows.

In spite of all I have a hint of suspicion that the braided cord really inproved the sound (but don't tell anyone 😉 )

Summa summarum
Lorad - indifferent, nothing special
Ölflex - not recommended
Braided - recommended

 

[Davet]

Power Cords

I was skeptical about the effect of power cords (PCs) on the resultant sound. I can't count the number of PCs I have constructed. I have read about all kind of various topologies and came to some basic conclusions based on the postings on Audio Asylum Cable Forum by Bob Crump and Chris VenHaus.

I started my DIY mains cable quest based on information posted on the TNT website. In addition I gained knowledge from reading John Risch cable info.

I found PC experimentaion to be relatively cheap, and results for the most part were immediate. In my system I have limited my DIY PC implementaion to The Crump Recipe for my tube preamp, a waterproof 14-gauge PC from Home depot for my SS power amp, and a variation of the shielded VenHaus cable for my digital source. I had used cable as large as 6-guage on my power amp and didn't like the sound. Experimentation is what got me to what I have and like.

The Cord referenced in the Crump recipe, I have, found to be the same cord commonly used for computer monitor PCs. The SJT info is embedded in the rubber sheathing. These cable are much heavier (fatter) than regular computer PCs and can be found or purchased for next to nothing.

Try PCs. They may work for you or they may not. If there is interest I can start a new thread regarding my experiments.

 

[DIAR]

Thanks for the links. I'll definitely read them. I was familiar with most of them but I just haven't had time to read them 🙁 . This was the first one I made (I allready forgot it). It is a bit modified version of the TNT cable. It sucked *** big time (I disassembled it after while) . Placebo Power Cord V1.0 😉

http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/DIY/plasebo/plasebo_v1.jpg

Here are some links from my favourites folder:

a lot of articles on cables:
http://www.ecoustics.com/Home/Accessories/Cables/Cable_Articles/alpha.html

Bob Crump DIY power cable and some others
http://www.audiotweaks.com/diy.htm

Commercial power cords but also lot of ideas to borrow:
http://www.russandrews.com/category...&customer_id=PAA1548095204716MCJJLUSBJDMRTIHP

In case that link doesn't work:
www.russandrews.com

I once tried braiding this but braiding was so time consuming that I gave up

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

I once tried braiding shunyata style. Maybe I'll get back to that project when I'm retired...
http://www.shunyata.com/modeldriver.aspx?navitemid=2342
Shunyata patent papers:
klick on IMAGES
http://164.195.100.11/netacgi/nph-P...=1&f=G&l=50&s1=6,242,689.WKU.&OS=PN/6,242,689

By the way. I just received Black Gate NX Hi-Q 47 uF 6.3 V for my CDP analog output. Looks deceive (i hope):

Once again I have to thank LCAudio for their service. I ordered the parts on friday afternoon and they arrived today. 😀

 

[DIAR]

An hour later:

Original and modified output side by side.

Those caps are connected like this:
http://www.blackgate.jp/ebg6.htm

 

[DIAR]

I'm going to change diodes from CDP power supply and I need the best possible rectifier for the job (price should be less than 4 euro/each)

Does anyone have a justified opinion on what is the best rectifiernowadays ? (I know that people prefer MUR rectifier but I believe there are much better rectifiers easily available)

I'm going to change diodes from CDP power supply and I need the best possible rectifier for the job (price should be less than 4 euro/each)

There is a huge selection in RS and Farnell but I can't figure out which one to choose.

What are the qualities of a good rectifier?

 

[montreal]

DIAR,

I have a SONY DVP-NS755V SACD player.

I have purchased some AD8066 to replace my BA4558 OPA's. Both are SMT and have identical pinouts. My output circuit board is called the AV-64 model board.

From your photo, it appears that you have removed the original OPA and inserted a DIP 8pin socket.

How difficult was it for you to remove the old chips and make holes without damaging the circuit etches?

I see that you have purchased a carrier board for the two AD8065 chips. There are two silver mica brown coloured capacitors on that carrier. Are there any other components besides the OPA's?

Can you tell me the value of each capacitor on the carrier and to which pins of the op-amps are the capicators connected?

Did you have any instability problems with these new opamps?

What difference have they made to the sound quality?

Thank you for any answers.

Lewis

 

[DIAR]

From your photo, it appears that you have removed the original OPA and inserted a DIP 8pin socket.

How difficult was it for you to remove the old chips and make holes without damaging the circuit etches?

Peace of cake. Although I did practice desoldering before I started messing with the player pcb.

I used desoldering braid to remove the solder. The OPA came loose and dropped after removing all solder. I removed capacitors later and it was much more difficult because the leads are bent and the caps won't come loose so easily. If you use any force when pulling out a component you can be quite sure that your bcp will get ruined.

I used the socket so that I can change the opa when needed without soldering and to rise the opa above the caps.

Here's more photos:
http://kotiweb.kotiportti.fi/audiovideo/DIY/cdout/

I see that you have purchased a carrier board for the two AD8065 chips. There are two silver mica brown coloured capacitors on that carrier. Are there any other components besides the OPA's?

Can you tell me the value of each capacitor on the carrier and to which pins of the op-amps are the capicators connected?

I bought the board from LC Audio:
http://www.lcaudio.dk/com/index.php?page=5

I have ordered stuff from LCAudio twice and they have delivered the goods in three or four days both times.

There are nothing else on the board besides the caps and AD8065 chips.

The value of the caps is
Silver MICA cap 470pF 300V

Here's more info about them:
http://www.lcaudio.dk/com/index.php?page=6

I will find out about the configuration and make a decent picture of it. You'll just have to wait a few days...

Did you have any instability problems with these new opamps?

Haven't noticed any but I believe these problems are avoided by using those Silver Micas.

Originally posted by montreal
What difference have they made to the sound quality?

Soundstaging didn't change at all but sound became more dynamic and accurate and realístic. The sound of the player with NJM4580 is quite dull but this AD8065 helped much.

Hopefully this helped. Sorry about the poor language. It's 1:30 AM here and I'm dead tired...

 

[montreal]

DIAR,

Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions.

I wish to ask you one more question about the silver mica capacitors on the carrier board.

I believe the 8 pin socket on the SONY module provides you with a single Vs+ and Vs- voltage (pins 4 and 8 on the socket) to operate both AD8065's (via pins 4 and 7 of each chip).

Is each capacitor connected across pin 4 and pin 7 of each AD8065?

Thank you,

Lewis

 

[DIAR]

DIAR,


Is each capacitor connected across pin 4 and pin 7 of each AD8065?

Caps are connected to pins 4 and 7 but I'll find out the rest as soon as I open the player the next time (soon).

 

[montreal]

Caps are connected to pins 4 and 7 but I'll find out the rest as soon as I open the player the next time (soon).

DIAR,

Thanks for the info.

I will be using only one AD8066 so I should only require one cap which I will connect across the power supply pins.

I will use the exact same size and type cap that is used for the AD8065.

Lewis

 

[DIAR]

Not the prettiest pic I've drawn but hopefully good enough to clone the module.


The letters are connected to each other.