> EUVL, What are my options for reglators?
You can use the same one we are designing for the balanced F5 and just change the Zener diode to 27V.
Regarding PowerCon :
"* Not to be used in the wall of a building structure as a mains power connector."
only means that you should not use it as a in-wall mains socket because you will be plugging into live mains power, for which it is not designed. I have been using PowerCon as mains connector at the amplifier case for years and years now with no issue at all. And there is no reason to use the high current version. Even a dual-mono F5X with 8 FETs in total would not consume more than 300W, which is about 1.3A for Europe, and 2.7A for the US.
The only precaution you need to make is to unplug the wall mains plug first before connecting / disconnecting the PowerCon.
i.e. Never connect / disconnect the PowerCon live.
http://www.neutrik.com/content/technicalsupport/faq.aspx?faqId=205_140256725
"May I plug / unplug a powerCON cable connector under load?
No. The powerCON is approved as a power "connector" and not as "plug and socket device". Connectors: are components which in normal use (under live) are not be engaged ot disengaged under live. Plug and socket devices: are components which in normal use (under live or load) may be engaged or disengaged when live or under load."
Patrick
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You can use the same one we are designing for the balanced F5 and just change the Zener diode to 27V.
Regarding PowerCon :
"* Not to be used in the wall of a building structure as a mains power connector."
only means that you should not use it as a in-wall mains socket because you will be plugging into live mains power, for which it is not designed. I have been using PowerCon as mains connector at the amplifier case for years and years now with no issue at all. And there is no reason to use the high current version. Even a dual-mono F5X with 8 FETs in total would not consume more than 300W, which is about 1.3A for Europe, and 2.7A for the US.
The only precaution you need to make is to unplug the wall mains plug first before connecting / disconnecting the PowerCon.
i.e. Never connect / disconnect the PowerCon live.
http://www.neutrik.com/content/technicalsupport/faq.aspx?faqId=205_140256725
"May I plug / unplug a powerCON cable connector under load?
No. The powerCON is approved as a power "connector" and not as "plug and socket device". Connectors: are components which in normal use (under live) are not be engaged ot disengaged under live. Plug and socket devices: are components which in normal use (under live or load) may be engaged or disengaged when live or under load."
Patrick
.
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The good news is that you can still use that heatsink. Nothing I see should get in the way of a new set of holes.
Still, they should have sent you a new heatsink...
Still, they should have sent you a new heatsink...
I suppose its been ordered with tapped holes for transistors
might be a case of poor custom work
done with hand tool, which they obviously cant handle very well
their standard cases are probably solely machine work
maybe less issues with those
but if they offer that kind of custom work, they should do it properly, or refuse
are the tapped holes for covers, back and front ok ?
A whopping 15 euro refund. That won't cover a new custom tapped heatsink...what crappy policy for a company with so many customers in the diy comunity. hope they see this thread.
I won't be ordering from them any time soon. Front Panel Express it is....
I won't be ordering from them any time soon. Front Panel Express it is....
raise a dispute with PayPal immediately.
Raise a dispute with the retailer immediately.
Raise a dispute with the credit card issuer that pays your paypal account. Debit card issuer is not so protective, but may be able to help.
When all three disputes arrive at the door of the manufacturer they usually do the right thing.
In your dispute with the retailer, send a link to this thread. and send links to all the other threads/post in this Forum that recommend their product.
It should make them sit up and listen!!!
Raise a dispute with the retailer immediately.
Raise a dispute with the credit card issuer that pays your paypal account. Debit card issuer is not so protective, but may be able to help.
When all three disputes arrive at the door of the manufacturer they usually do the right thing.
In your dispute with the retailer, send a link to this thread. and send links to all the other threads/post in this Forum that recommend their product.
It should make them sit up and listen!!!
amen brother, its totally lopsided towards the buyer, there is something they call seller protection, but it is worthless even though you are the one paying them. in this case i'm with melon head, you should definitely file a complaint and return the item after documenting it and your email conversations with them refusing to do the right thing when given the chance.
i do wish they (paypal) were more even handed though, as there are loopholes that allow the buyer to claim item didnt arrive and get refund without any investigation, so you must send with tracking or delivery confirmation to be covered even if the buyer wont pay for it. a friend of mine has recently been ripped off for a few thousand even though the buyer has posted pictures of the item that 'he got somewhere else' when it (a VERY rare nos item) isnt available anywhere else, but they still sided with the buyer. i have also had a smaller incident with the same trick
/rant
you got a raw deal here though, i sure wont be buying anything from them, especially when conrad is so close and great to deal with.
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I've opened up a dispute with paypal, for a total refund ( minus the $15 they've already credited me).
I'll see how it goes from here.
I'll see how it goes from here.
What really bothers me is I provided nice detailed drawings created using front panel express, and they go and mess things up.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
If you look at the construction of their housing, most parts are simple sheet metal work, that requires maybe a CNC punch, and a shop for brushing and anodising. This place does not seem big enough to draw their own extrusions, so these are most likely supplied by a heatsink manufacturer. It is then also possible that the heatsinks come already fully machined and tapped for the standard mounting holes.
If that would be the case, the only way they would be able to provide extra drilled and tapped holes are by hand (and not CNC mill, e.g.). Standard European rate of skilled tool maker is in the region of 50Euro+ an hour, and I estimate drilling and tapping 2 heatsinks as a one-off job according to drawing would be about half an hour, including set-up time.
There is no easy way round, unless you go to countries with low labour cost. Even China is getting very expensive these days.
Patrick
If that would be the case, the only way they would be able to provide extra drilled and tapped holes are by hand (and not CNC mill, e.g.). Standard European rate of skilled tool maker is in the region of 50Euro+ an hour, and I estimate drilling and tapping 2 heatsinks as a one-off job according to drawing would be about half an hour, including set-up time.
There is no easy way round, unless you go to countries with low labour cost. Even China is getting very expensive these days.
Patrick
hey, in line with what EUVL says above, I asked this, because...
well, if the rest of the box is ok, I wouldnt worry more about it
you got a small refund
maybe only symbolic value
but at least some kind of response
better learn to drill and tap those holes for transistors yourself
I guess you would need it anyway, with any other box
I dont think its good custom work, ofcourse not
but sending back the box etc, maybe it only causes even more trouble for yourself
new box, same thing, holes for transistors still missing
a lot of trouble
a matter of principles ?
may be so, but only if it makes sense
now, it is important for the rest of us to know if the box as such is ok, in general ?????
Removing a broken tap from a blind hole requires a lot of mechanical fitting skill that should not be attempted by a novice.
Only my 2 cents,
Patrick
Only my 2 cents,
Patrick
yeah, a bit more than the skills of the one who broke it
well, why remove the broke bit
much easier to move the hole a bit, and make a new one
its a pain to think of, sure thing
I hate those things too, really
but it does happen
best to put the lid on, and try to forget about it
and move on
the trouble from trying to get new box etc, and start all over
thats just as exhausting, or even more
but I do know how you feel
I hate it too
but if rest of box is ok, well
could have been worse
things like scratches, for one
or wrong angled holes for the visible screws
shipping damage
or a lost package
etc
hey, this is DIY, with all it takes, right ?
a simple small hole ?
well, why remove the broke bit
much easier to move the hole a bit, and make a new one
its a pain to think of, sure thing
I hate those things too, really
but it does happen
best to put the lid on, and try to forget about it
and move on
the trouble from trying to get new box etc, and start all over
thats just as exhausting, or even more
but I do know how you feel
I hate it too
but if rest of box is ok, well
could have been worse
things like scratches, for one
or wrong angled holes for the visible screws
shipping damage
or a lost package
etc
hey, this is DIY, with all it takes, right ?
a simple small hole ?
The box is ok in general, the back panel is fine.
The heat sinks are split, so they punched 2 holes on each. They made an error on one of the heat sinks, rotated it, drilled out two hole, and I guess the tapping big got stuck (and they said f*ck it), ship it.
The heat sinks are split, so they punched 2 holes on each. They made an error on one of the heat sinks, rotated it, drilled out two hole, and I guess the tapping big got stuck (and they said f*ck it), ship it.
dealing with their attitude is one thing , but already having case at home - needing just few holes in different place ..... is more important one , from my point of view
I considered myself quite skilled with fitting and machining, and I do break the odd tap every now and then when tapping with a battery drill.
But the point is, I guess, that a responsible company would recognise that mistake, absorb the costs as a loss, and provide a new heatsink properly done, in the interest of their own reputation and customer satisfaction. So in this case, reputation and satisfaction come after profit.
That is really the point, IMHO.
Patrick
But the point is, I guess, that a responsible company would recognise that mistake, absorb the costs as a loss, and provide a new heatsink properly done, in the interest of their own reputation and customer satisfaction. So in this case, reputation and satisfaction come after profit.
That is really the point, IMHO.
Patrick
without doubt ;
but I have feeling that only merlin2069er know what's more practical solution now - yelling at them , and waiting ...... or tap these few holes in first local metal shop ;
frustration guaranteed in both cases .
but I have feeling that only merlin2069er know what's more practical solution now - yelling at them , and waiting ...... or tap these few holes in first local metal shop ;
frustration guaranteed in both cases .
there could be lots of different 'routines' involved
might not be so simple like just grapping a new heatsink from the shelf
maybe someone else did the custom tap holes, and shipped
could be the well known case of one hand not knowing what the other one does
maybe someone got fired as we speak
you say the rest of the box is ok, in general
good, thats something, at least
I consider this issue 'sorted'
can we get back to topic, bulding F5 amps, somehow ?
just a few 'silly' on topic posts might help a lot, thanks
moderation
can we get back to topic, bulding F5 amps, somehow ?
just a few 'silly' on topic posts might help a lot, thanks
moderation
Heatsinks Sources
For some, but not all, other potential heat sink vendors...in no particular order for your consumption...
10.080 inch profile custom cut aluminum heatsink
Advanced Thermal Solutions - ATS-EXL31-300-R0
Conrad Heatsinks - Products
Par-Metal
as well as Gene Gene the dancin' machine (DIYgene) and others on ebay...
For some, but not all, other potential heat sink vendors...in no particular order for your consumption...
10.080 inch profile custom cut aluminum heatsink
Advanced Thermal Solutions - ATS-EXL31-300-R0
Conrad Heatsinks - Products
Par-Metal
as well as Gene Gene the dancin' machine (DIYgene) and others on ebay...
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Thank You! I wholeheartedly agree.
If I were home there would be progress, I will not be there for another 6 days.
Hopefully people can have a bit of focus.
As the Original Poster I wholeheartedly welcome and encourage posts about building an F5. If you have any photos of yours, at any stage, please post them here. If you have any insight into how to do this, or questions about the 'normal' F5 you might want to ask, please post them here.