Hi 6L6
tanks for the offer.
couple of pictures of my DIY progress
nothing much and rough and ready.
But this is what could be done with a Dremmel and few hand tools.
tanks for the offer.
couple of pictures of my DIY progress
nothing much and rough and ready.
But this is what could be done with a Dremmel and few hand tools.
Wow! That looks fantastic! -- I very much like the 'vertical tower' style.
Are your transformers on the bottom of the PSU stack? It's hard to see... Also, are you using lengths of threaded rod to support the boards?
Please keep showing your pictures of your build, I am very interested in seeing your progress. Thanks for posting!! 🙂
Are your transformers on the bottom of the PSU stack? It's hard to see... Also, are you using lengths of threaded rod to support the boards?
Please keep showing your pictures of your build, I am very interested in seeing your progress. Thanks for posting!! 🙂
Hi 6L6
Tanks for the kind words.
Trafo / trafos will be on top of the capacitor banks the back is practically a separate enclosure
I am using at the moment aluminium sheet (500 x 320 Sorry for metric measures and aluminium bar 13 mm (1/2 in)
Yes it is treaded bar 4 mm to support the boards
There are 2 more PCB to go there auxiliary PSU and soft start and speaker protection.
At the moment width is 320 mm I would like to get that down a bit.
I am also planning on fitting 2 more banks of capacitors 1 for each channel on the space under the heat sinks.
Trafo is 1000 VA 24 V with a tap at 20 V (got 28V out of the 20 V tap)
Heat sink 300 X 400 X 83 bit on the big side for the stock F5 but should be enough for a triple balanced F5 or eventually B2 and maybe woodblock A75.
PCB again rough and ready home made (best thing I ever did was build a light box for the developing cost me about £50 but no more press and peal or toner transfer for me)
Once the case is ready apart from a lick of paint I fell it should be safe enough to give it same juice and start with the amplifiers PCB.
Tanks for the kind words.
Trafo / trafos will be on top of the capacitor banks the back is practically a separate enclosure
I am using at the moment aluminium sheet (500 x 320 Sorry for metric measures and aluminium bar 13 mm (1/2 in)
Yes it is treaded bar 4 mm to support the boards
There are 2 more PCB to go there auxiliary PSU and soft start and speaker protection.
At the moment width is 320 mm I would like to get that down a bit.
I am also planning on fitting 2 more banks of capacitors 1 for each channel on the space under the heat sinks.
Trafo is 1000 VA 24 V with a tap at 20 V (got 28V out of the 20 V tap)
Heat sink 300 X 400 X 83 bit on the big side for the stock F5 but should be enough for a triple balanced F5 or eventually B2 and maybe woodblock A75.
PCB again rough and ready home made (best thing I ever did was build a light box for the developing cost me about £50 but no more press and peal or toner transfer for me)
Once the case is ready apart from a lick of paint I fell it should be safe enough to give it same juice and start with the amplifiers PCB.
Ok, how much hookup wire and gauge size is roughly need for the F5 build?
I've got to place an order soon.
Is an insulator a requirement between the mosfet and heatsink? (just double checking).
I've got to place an order soon.
Is an insulator a requirement between the mosfet and heatsink? (just double checking).
mica & goop is what you need ....
you can even find a thread with same name ; worth reading
from Wire ? great source for wire and other stuff . you can buy by the foot and it's about 25% the cost of retail on spools . check out his other stuff for your build such as binding posts , rca connectors , iec connector etc . quality merchandise , great prices and great service .
Yeah, I got some stuff from Apexjr. Some from elsewhere on ebay etc. The Mil Spec. wire isn't necessary but gives it a nice touch.
Here it is -- http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/37262-mica-goop.html
Worth reading! Good stuff. 🙂
Here's a dry fitting of one of my channels (no goop, no solder);
I'm hoping crazy glue will hole one of the standoffs on the other heat sink.
I'm hoping crazy glue will hole one of the standoffs on the other heat sink.
Merlin, 6L6 and all......
I found it worthwhile to NOT solder the MOSFETs to the PCB while stuffing the board. I waited until I had the MOSFET test-mounted on the heatsink, and allowed the heatsink to "position" the MOSFET while I soldered it to the PCB. In doing this, it made certain the MOSFET had best possible alignment on the heatsink, without its soldered leads and the PCB "tugging" at it. For longevity, it also minimized the stress on the MOSFET leads and the PCB pads.
I found it worthwhile to NOT solder the MOSFETs to the PCB while stuffing the board. I waited until I had the MOSFET test-mounted on the heatsink, and allowed the heatsink to "position" the MOSFET while I soldered it to the PCB. In doing this, it made certain the MOSFET had best possible alignment on the heatsink, without its soldered leads and the PCB "tugging" at it. For longevity, it also minimized the stress on the MOSFET leads and the PCB pads.
By the way, 6L6, you convinced me to post my own thread for my build.
Check out: another-f5-build-beautiful-music-different-drummer
Enjoy the skiing--you must be up to your armpits in new powder.....!
Check out: another-f5-build-beautiful-music-different-drummer
Enjoy the skiing--you must be up to your armpits in new powder.....!
yes, that's what I heard... My mosfets are not soldered into the pc board yet.
What's the best way to position the thermistors?
What's the best way to position the thermistors?
Hhhhmmmm...... I'm uncertain if crazy glue will work, considering the thermal cycling the heatsink will be enduring over time.....
Carefully, very carfully..... (ta-da-boom....!) 😀
I positioned mine directly above the MOSFET, almost in contact with the heatsink.
hmm, I'm aware about how close the thermistors are to the 3 contact pads of the mosfet on the board. Should I cover these with some sort of insulator?
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