This is confusing. When I program the atmega in the arduino uno I measure +5v on pin 18 (D12). When I put the atmega in the amp control board I don't get any voltage on the pin even when measuring directly on the IC. What am I doing wrong?
On that control board, LED+ is constant 12V. Switching and current limiting is done on the negative side. The led is meant to be on dimly at all time, and get brighter when the negative connector is actuated by the microcontroller.
The extra D12 and D13 outputs are connected to the Darlington array. The Darlington array can only ground things, it can't have a positive output. To make things more confusing, the Darlington array needs a positive input signal, to get a negative output.
To keep things simple, you need a common anode led. Put a limiting resistor from 12V to the anode, and connect the two cathodes to D12 and D13. Write the LED outputs high to actuate the led.
The extra D12 and D13 outputs are connected to the Darlington array. The Darlington array can only ground things, it can't have a positive output. To make things more confusing, the Darlington array needs a positive input signal, to get a negative output.
To keep things simple, you need a common anode led. Put a limiting resistor from 12V to the anode, and connect the two cathodes to D12 and D13. Write the LED outputs high to actuate the led.
That explains alot. I'll order some leds with common anode, meanwhile I can play with the UNO to get the programming right. 😉
I had a very busy week, so I haven't had any time to do any wore testing on the I2C relay board. All else is working well.
I'll see what I have left when I'm at the office later today. What kind of amp are you building? Will it have a tube transformer?
no tube amp
for now building just the honey badger , later ( ostippers slew projects ). I Have torodial transformer 2*45ac 600va (from toroidy with synshield) and 2pcs 2 * 25ac 260va made in finland by muuntosähkö. So no tube amp . Thanks
for now building just the honey badger , later ( ostippers slew projects ). I Have torodial transformer 2*45ac 600va (from toroidy with synshield) and 2pcs 2 * 25ac 260va made in finland by muuntosähkö. So no tube amp . Thanks
Yes, but the question is - are you looking for:
- Gerber files so that you order the PCBs yourself, or
- Already manufactured PCBs that can be sent to you for further soldering?
- Already manufactured PCBs that can be sent to you for further soldering?
- Already manufactured PCBs that can be sent to you for further soldering would be ideal . Haven't done the second option ever.
- Already manufactured PCBs that can be sent to you for further soldering would be ideal . Haven't done the second option ever.
programming
I use linux mint 17.3 have the latest arduino 1.6.6 installed and a lsusb in terminal shows Bus 007 Device 004: ID 1a86:7523 QinHeng Electronics HL-340 USB-Serial adapter with orange blinking a while and then green light so this is a cheap china copy. the code you use can i get that, do i need todo libery imports. And yes i'm a beginner level at programming. I see that you now use the uno to code the atmel chip . why is this? I need to buy arduino uno board (yes).
I use linux mint 17.3 have the latest arduino 1.6.6 installed and a lsusb in terminal shows Bus 007 Device 004: ID 1a86:7523 QinHeng Electronics HL-340 USB-Serial adapter with orange blinking a while and then green light so this is a cheap china copy. the code you use can i get that, do i need todo libery imports. And yes i'm a beginner level at programming. I see that you now use the uno to code the atmel chip . why is this? I need to buy arduino uno board (yes).
On the older boards I used Arduino Nano as is. Later on, Jeff has moved to the standalone Atmel chip to save space and overall cost. The easiest way to program a standalone chip is to use Arduino Uno.
okay
I get the uno board then from reinhelt . and the other componets from mouser. I done some coding in past . begun with commadore 64 as kid jumped to amiga did the double clock prosessor in school some assemler but with pc stuck to basic. Need to explore and read more of course. Question do i need to understand the hole arduiano programming languge . Do i develop the code for i/o on my own? Understanding takes time and i got time i hope so.
I get the uno board then from reinhelt . and the other componets from mouser. I done some coding in past . begun with commadore 64 as kid jumped to amiga did the double clock prosessor in school some assemler but with pc stuck to basic. Need to explore and read more of course. Question do i need to understand the hole arduiano programming languge . Do i develop the code for i/o on my own? Understanding takes time and i got time i hope so.
No, of course you don't have to develop the code on your own 😀
Please PM me your email - I will send you the code. You will just upload it - that's it.
Please see the paper attached. It shows the older big board (don't pay attention to it, you will have the newer one), but gives the functionality overview and shows the key parameters you can adjust.
The latest version of the board can be programmed with a FTDI serial adapter cord. It's a great option if you do a lot of programming, but it costs as much as a UNO, so not worthwhile for a single use.
Which one 1:ARDUINO UNO :: Arduino Uno, Rev. 3, ATmega328, USB
2:ARDUINO UNO DIP2 :: Arduino Uno REV.3, DIP design, ATmega328, USB
dip2 is a little cheaper . please answer
2:ARDUINO UNO DIP2 :: Arduino Uno REV.3, DIP design, ATmega328, USB
dip2 is a little cheaper . please answer