At some time when I discovered that it goes quite low, I suggested using double BETA 12A in a 2.5-way ... but ofcourse it could with a combination of 12A/12LTA ... could be interesting, but breaking budget
I would think a single 12LTA in BR, with a fronthorn could be nice
Tweeter could be mounted in the same fronthorn
I would think a single 12LTA in BR, with a fronthorn could be nice
Tweeter could be mounted in the same fronthorn
Attachments
Variac could you repost those links from the top of the page? Every time I try and accessone it creates a blank bar on my tool bar and nothing shows up but a little box to the upper left corner.
I do know it's horn loaded though.
(Top of the last page )
P.S. Saturday was my bday. I turned 15.
I do know it's horn loaded though.
(Top of the last page )
P.S. Saturday was my bday. I turned 15.
Hi,
Birch ply is denser and stronger than Spruce ply for a given thickness,
but Spruce ply for the weight is stronger as it can be thicker section.
Spruce ply is cheaper and generally has a poorer surface finish.
I see he has still ended up with a pair of overgrown PA speakers .....
🙂/sreten.
Birch ply is denser and stronger than Spruce ply for a given thickness,
but Spruce ply for the weight is stronger as it can be thicker section.
Spruce ply is cheaper and generally has a poorer surface finish.
I see he has still ended up with a pair of overgrown PA speakers .....
🙂/sreten.
sreten:
Is there a decent, cheap spruce plywood without voids that he could use? IT would be tenpting to use a more construction oriented plywood for these if it were cheaper, but people always claim that the voids in the lower grades can cause resonances and/ or buzzing. IT seems to me that it would be quite likely that the speakers made from cheap ply would be OK, BUT if you got a buzz, you might have to throw the thing out and start over...
regarding your comments, I don't believe Punkr has any amp to speak of at all. Although there is much talk about how cheap power is these days, its not cheap for Punkrockr who has a very limited budget. So a "flea power" amp is a lot better for him.
We have proven that 18" subs were completely beyond his budget for quite a while since he simply had to have 4 , and a crossover and big separate amps, a midrange, etc.
I wouldn't call these overgrown PA speakers. I would call them overgrown single driver horn/transmission line speakers. 😉 I don't think you would call the other projects on that web page I linked to PA speakers- they are a different thing.. Sure, the driver was designed for a PA, but it is a concentric driver with a whizzer cone, like many Fostex, and Lowther type drivers. It has been successfully used for home audio in various designs- I have linked to them.
One of your objections to the PA schemes was that the sound would be poorly integrated in a small room and close up. Well, these drivers' bass and mids are concentric, which people choose for their coherent sound, so I don't see that as a valid critisism.
Finally, the tweeter I proposed is a Fostex, made for home use. It is a horn and very efficient, but not a PA driver.
Is there a decent, cheap spruce plywood without voids that he could use? IT would be tenpting to use a more construction oriented plywood for these if it were cheaper, but people always claim that the voids in the lower grades can cause resonances and/ or buzzing. IT seems to me that it would be quite likely that the speakers made from cheap ply would be OK, BUT if you got a buzz, you might have to throw the thing out and start over...
regarding your comments, I don't believe Punkr has any amp to speak of at all. Although there is much talk about how cheap power is these days, its not cheap for Punkrockr who has a very limited budget. So a "flea power" amp is a lot better for him.
We have proven that 18" subs were completely beyond his budget for quite a while since he simply had to have 4 , and a crossover and big separate amps, a midrange, etc.
I wouldn't call these overgrown PA speakers. I would call them overgrown single driver horn/transmission line speakers. 😉 I don't think you would call the other projects on that web page I linked to PA speakers- they are a different thing.. Sure, the driver was designed for a PA, but it is a concentric driver with a whizzer cone, like many Fostex, and Lowther type drivers. It has been successfully used for home audio in various designs- I have linked to them.
One of your objections to the PA schemes was that the sound would be poorly integrated in a small room and close up. Well, these drivers' bass and mids are concentric, which people choose for their coherent sound, so I don't see that as a valid critisism.
Finally, the tweeter I proposed is a Fostex, made for home use. It is a horn and very efficient, but not a PA driver.
I sure don't see this as a P.A. speaker, either. The only thing "P.A." about it is the pro driver, and it's not even a typical P.A. driver. How many full range driver P.A.s do you see?
Variac is right, it's more like some crazy overgrown Audiophile project.
What does the inside path of this box look like? Did I miss a diagram somewhere?
*note for non native English speakers. "P.A." means "Public Address."
An old, but still very current name for professional sound systems. As used in theaters, concerts, public venues, etc.
Variac is right, it's more like some crazy overgrown Audiophile project.
What does the inside path of this box look like? Did I miss a diagram somewhere?
*note for non native English speakers. "P.A." means "Public Address."
An old, but still very current name for professional sound systems. As used in theaters, concerts, public venues, etc.
Variac said:I have a job to deal with!
A whaaaat???
When you post the drawing, will it be the "Architect Sketch"?
"THE ARCHITECT SKETCH!!!"
(Gratuitous Python Reference)
this is completely off topic but what is the rep behind this so called "World's Most Powerful Subwoofer"?
That's Tom Danley's stuff, I think.
I don't know how the servo drivers work.
Tom Danley is also behind the very interesting Unity Horns which you will see on that site as well.
I don't know how the servo drivers work.
Tom Danley is also behind the very interesting Unity Horns which you will see on that site as well.
They have a toothed belt hooked to the cones powered by a servo motor that rotates back and forth. They do what he says. I've hear they require some maintanance. Note he compares them to vented direct radiator speakers , not horns...
There are some killer horns out there.... In your own way you will be joining that club: The Killer Horn Club..
There are some killer horns out there.... In your own way you will be joining that club: The Killer Horn Club..
punkrokr1701 said:this is completely off topic but what is the rep behind this so called "World's Most Powerful Subwoofer"?
That stuff is for real. When I told you to consider building Lab horns, they're sort of similar to this. That is, they're horn loaded subwoofers. It takes a small group of them (for example, four of them) for them to work at their potential, but they get really really loud.
Yes, Labhorns are what I was referring to. But Punkr, don't go down that route yet. I'm afraid they would be stupid to use in your house.
They are also tricky to make, but when you google them, note how they use a 12" driver.
When you are done with that, here is how the horns you are going to make will be:
http://www.zillaspeak.com/bib-howtobuild.asp
Note how the box is completely open at the top. That's where the bass comes out.
They are also tricky to make, but when you google them, note how they use a 12" driver.
When you are done with that, here is how the horns you are going to make will be:
http://www.zillaspeak.com/bib-howtobuild.asp
Note how the box is completely open at the top. That's where the bass comes out.
Regarding the servodrive mechanism, I assume the BT-7 is similar to the Contrabass. In the Contrabass the belts are smooth, made from what is probably kevlar-reinforced neoprene.
Hi,
if the horn is conical, is there a method of estimating the flare rate?
Once the flare rate is known, then one can estimate the lower frequency cut off of the horn.
This can be compared to the mouth area cut off to see if the horn size has been optimised in any way.
Punk is, I guess, looking for about 30 to 35 Hz cut-off for his music type sources.
A floor loaded 35Hz horn will need about 3.8sqm of mouth area. Floor and wall loading will reduce this to about 1.9sqm.
Horns can be truncated and still produce output but with a very uneven response. I have seen suggested truncations between 50% and 70%.
Combining these, the minimum mouth area for a 35Hz floor and wall loaded horn truncated by 50% would be about 1sqm. That is going to be a mighty big hole if it is only half a metre wide. (6ft6in by 20in)
if the horn is conical, is there a method of estimating the flare rate?
Once the flare rate is known, then one can estimate the lower frequency cut off of the horn.
This can be compared to the mouth area cut off to see if the horn size has been optimised in any way.
Punk is, I guess, looking for about 30 to 35 Hz cut-off for his music type sources.
A floor loaded 35Hz horn will need about 3.8sqm of mouth area. Floor and wall loading will reduce this to about 1.9sqm.
Horns can be truncated and still produce output but with a very uneven response. I have seen suggested truncations between 50% and 70%.
Combining these, the minimum mouth area for a 35Hz floor and wall loaded horn truncated by 50% would be about 1sqm. That is going to be a mighty big hole if it is only half a metre wide. (6ft6in by 20in)
Please Don"t Post Bib Info Here Anymore
OK, Since we now have a design for Punkrockr: the BIB, I split off the BIB posts to this new thread so we ccan work out the details.
PLEASE POST BIB DISCUSSION THERE!! :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=88104
It will be a lot easier for others to find in the future if they want to make one!
This thread can continue to discuss the bass issues that Punkr and others find interesting, and suggestions for other designs that people on Punkrockrs situation might find appealing.
OK, Since we now have a design for Punkrockr: the BIB, I split off the BIB posts to this new thread so we ccan work out the details.
PLEASE POST BIB DISCUSSION THERE!! :
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=88104
It will be a lot easier for others to find in the future if they want to make one!
This thread can continue to discuss the bass issues that Punkr and others find interesting, and suggestions for other designs that people on Punkrockrs situation might find appealing.
ok. well if you guys wanna post the bib discusion there I'm free to talk of things like the 18/12 right?
Well I don't think anyone will mind me askin being that you've moved my BIB project to another thread.
I have posted the drivers that I find most appealing (that you can buy alone ). Now which one of these will push the most air and still be deafingly loud?
And I know there are probably others out there so if anyone knows of a massively powerful driver let me know.
Telex 18"
Dayton Pro 18"
B-52 18-200SL
18 Sound 21"
18 Sound 18"
Mach 5 MJ-18
RCF 18"
JBL 2245
I have posted the drivers that I find most appealing (that you can buy alone ). Now which one of these will push the most air and still be deafingly loud?
And I know there are probably others out there so if anyone knows of a massively powerful driver let me know.
Telex 18"
Dayton Pro 18"
B-52 18-200SL
18 Sound 21"
18 Sound 18"
Mach 5 MJ-18
RCF 18"
JBL 2245
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
- Home
- Loudspeakers
- Multi-Way
- How should I wire my 1500 watt speakers?