Source of filter caps
I just found a source for the MKP479 remembering that Matjans
purchased them from Ecomal. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Check out www.ecomal.com for local Vishay reps. I e-mailed
them just now but do not expect a reply before Monday.
Let's see what happens...
Good luck,
Mike
I just found a source for the MKP479 remembering that Matjans
purchased them from Ecomal. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Check out www.ecomal.com for local Vishay reps. I e-mailed
them just now but do not expect a reply before Monday.
Let's see what happens...
Good luck,
Mike
Re: Source of filter caps
Nice one Mike😎
I wouldn't mind trying a couple of those too, should be interesting to see how they compare against the Auricaps
mlihl said:I just found a source for the MKP479 remembering that Matjans
purchased them from Ecomal. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Check out www.ecomal.com for local Vishay reps. I e-mailed
them just now but do not expect a reply before Monday.
Let's see what happens...
Good luck,
Mike
Nice one Mike😎
I wouldn't mind trying a couple of those too, should be interesting to see how they compare against the Auricaps
Re: My UCD tweaks
What was the more than noticible affect?
Where did you buy the diodes?
I had a good talk a few months back with Mikail at gold point. He told me that don't listen to people who say surface mount resistors sound good, they just don't cut it. Except for a rather bizzare type he mentioned, there are no such things as good sounding smt resistors. Even metal films he said were found lacking. Its not pretty, but I don't see putting in RN55's would be that tough. My experience is it adds detail, which I find the amps do lack a bit.
Free advice. You might try mechanically decouple them. I noticed parts connect had rubber pads for toriods. I suspect you could also use nioprene, which you can get cheap from McMast Carr.
t. said:0.68uf Auricaps finally arrived (not the new ones)
Should hopefully get them in tonight and give them a good run in
BTW I found the rectifier diodes to have more than a noticeable effect, MBR10100 are my current favourite, some may find these bass light, I've got some MBR1560 to try next
What was the more than noticible affect?
Where did you buy the diodes?
They look to be plan old surface mount films.classd4sure said:
My pleasure, glad to have helped
Do you know what variety of resistors are currently in use?
Regards,
Chris
I had a good talk a few months back with Mikail at gold point. He told me that don't listen to people who say surface mount resistors sound good, they just don't cut it. Except for a rather bizzare type he mentioned, there are no such things as good sounding smt resistors. Even metal films he said were found lacking. Its not pretty, but I don't see putting in RN55's would be that tough. My experience is it adds detail, which I find the amps do lack a bit.
mlihl said:Hi fellows,
Ah...and I will move my terrible 800VA "hummers" from the
amplifier enclosure to an external MDF box. These no-name
torodials are driving me crazy.
Regards,
Mike
Free advice. You might try mechanically decouple them. I noticed parts connect had rubber pads for toriods. I suspect you could also use nioprene, which you can get cheap from McMast Carr.
Re: Re: My UCD tweaks
In my system they sounded clearer with tighter bass than the others, some people may find them bass light but they was the most natural to my ears.
I got mine from Farnell, the only thing with these Schottky diodes is that they are 100v 10a so the MBR20200 would probably be more suitable for the UCD400, problem with these is that they are twice as expensive and are three pin rather than the standard two pin, they have two diodes built into a single package to double the voltage and current rating.
You could try getting some free samples from Onsemi, I thought all the faster types was better than those square metal silver ones
Portlandmike said:
What was the more than noticible affect?
Where did you buy the diodes?
In my system they sounded clearer with tighter bass than the others, some people may find them bass light but they was the most natural to my ears.
I got mine from Farnell, the only thing with these Schottky diodes is that they are 100v 10a so the MBR20200 would probably be more suitable for the UCD400, problem with these is that they are twice as expensive and are three pin rather than the standard two pin, they have two diodes built into a single package to double the voltage and current rating.
You could try getting some free samples from Onsemi, I thought all the faster types was better than those square metal silver ones
Re: Re: Re: My UCD tweaks
So, how do you like the sound of your auricap in the filter, and has it let you come to terms with the FC decoupling caps?
I've been wanting to change mine back to the stock caps for now but haven't been able to bring myself to do it I like the extra bass extension too much and it's growing on me more and more. Wanted to see what you think with the filter cap changed?
t. said:
In my system they sounded clearer with tighter bass than the others, some people may find them bass light but they was the most natural to my ears.
I got mine from Farnell, the only thing with these Schottky diodes is that they are 100v 10a so the MBR20200 would probably be more suitable for the UCD400, problem with these is that they are twice as expensive and are three pin rather than the standard two pin, they have two diodes built into a single package to double the voltage and current rating.
You could try getting some free samples from Onsemi, I thought all the faster types was better than those square metal silver ones
So, how do you like the sound of your auricap in the filter, and has it let you come to terms with the FC decoupling caps?
I've been wanting to change mine back to the stock caps for now but haven't been able to bring myself to do it I like the extra bass extension too much and it's growing on me more and more. Wanted to see what you think with the filter cap changed?
Hi Chris,
Sorry, I've not had much time to listen to it properly yet, I've been finishing off a pre-amp
The Auricapped UCD has been on most of the day running into 8R loading resistors, the output chokes have been getting seriously hot
I promise to have a good listen tomorrow after work and let you know, I thought people didn't seem to be interested to be honest🙂
Sorry, I've not had much time to listen to it properly yet, I've been finishing off a pre-amp
The Auricapped UCD has been on most of the day running into 8R loading resistors, the output chokes have been getting seriously hot

I promise to have a good listen tomorrow after work and let you know, I thought people didn't seem to be interested to be honest🙂
Modded UcD400 with Panasonic FC 680uf/100V as main caps, 82uf/35V Panasonic FC for low voltage decoupling, WIMA MKS4 680nf for output cap, (removed 560ohm opamp gain resistor) setting the opamp to unity gain. Still burning in, good results so far 😀 Rest is 1000VA/45VAC trafo going to 30.000 uf per rail.
Thanks Hypex for the great amps, and everyone else for this thread.
Thanks Hypex for the great amps, and everyone else for this thread.
mlihl said:How did you mount the MKS4? Underneath the board?
Regards,
Mike
It's underneath the board, one leg right on the coil output pad, and the other on the ground pad of the existing cap (which is removed, of course).
Ok, been listening to the amp with the Auricaps and Panasonic FC's.
The Highs have deffinately improved, the mids have improved a bit but it still sounds artificial to my ears compared to how it was with the brown caps in, the bottom end seems to have tightened up.
I'm not sure what to do now, some people would probably love how it sounds at the minute but I can't help but think something is missing😕
I may try putting the brown caps back in and see how they sound with the Auricaps, only other thing is that the bass will probably lose the clout its now got
The Highs have deffinately improved, the mids have improved a bit but it still sounds artificial to my ears compared to how it was with the brown caps in, the bottom end seems to have tightened up.
I'm not sure what to do now, some people would probably love how it sounds at the minute but I can't help but think something is missing😕
I may try putting the brown caps back in and see how they sound with the Auricaps, only other thing is that the bass will probably lose the clout its now got

Heh heh.... welcome to my dilema. Still deliberating... I can't lose that bass! That's why I was thinking smaller FC's may help speed things up a little.. hmmmm.
classd4sure said:Heh heh.... welcome to my dilema. Still deliberating... I can't lose that bass! That's why I was thinking smaller FC's may help speed things up a little.. hmmmm.
I've got to do something mate, the mids are rubbing me up the wrong way

Come on, theres got to be something we can try!
Wheres Bruno, I wonder if he has any idea's😀
I think the extra height of the higher value FC's is adding to the inductance, also the snubbers were likely designed for the lower value caps. Possibly staying in the 470uF region but switching to FC's could make the difference... just a theory.
We don't need such a high ripple capability. Just look at what the stock caps are rated for.. Bruno had said it's the ripple they should be sized for, at 20% of the max RMS output current.
Perhaps we've gone overkill. If I'm wrong in that theory we're back to the hunt for the perfect cap
I think smaller is the way to go though to regain the speed=air.
We don't need such a high ripple capability. Just look at what the stock caps are rated for.. Bruno had said it's the ripple they should be sized for, at 20% of the max RMS output current.
Perhaps we've gone overkill. If I'm wrong in that theory we're back to the hunt for the perfect cap

classd4sure said:I think the extra height of the higher value FC's is adding to the inductance, also the snubbers were likely designed for the lower value caps. Possibly staying in the 470uF region but switching to FC's could make the difference... just a theory.
We don't need such a high ripple capability. Just look at what the stock caps are rated for.. Bruno had said it's the ripple they should be sized for, at 20% of the max RMS output current.
Perhaps we've gone overkill. If I'm wrong in that theory we're back to the hunt for the perfect capI think smaller is the way to go though to regain the speed=air.
Yor probably right Chris, its easy to do too much and go the wrong way.
To be honest I've never had much luck when using FC's, they always add this sort of colouration to the mids but we can try the lower value to be 100% sure.
I've tried the BC136 too so I wonder what else there is that may be suitable
Nichicon HE or something, I'd have to look it up again but I think that was it.. was actually the stock cap on the modules for a little while, on the 400's perhaps.
classd4sure said:Nichicon HE or something, I'd have to look it up again but I think that was it.. was actually the stock cap on the modules for a little while, on the 400's perhaps.
I hope those HE ones are better than the Muse series

Was there any reason why they changed those caps used on the original modules
Found a better deal? I don't know. Just need a low impedance/high ripple cap of some sort. I'm most interested to see if a lower valued FC would retain the extra slam though. Personally I'm not placing an order anytime soon...
classd4sure said:Found a better deal? I don't know. Just need a low impedance/high ripple cap of some sort. I'm most interested to see if a lower valued FC would retain the extra slam though. Personally I'm not placing an order anytime soon...
Well I'll try the 470uf FC's, these will be the last time I use these caps if I'm not happy with the results, I've already given a load of these FC's away out of another project I tried them in

Its fairly easy to add a bit of extra resistance on the caps if the ESR is too low, its a shame the Rubycon ZL's don't go up to 63v, I do like those caps
Only Nichicons I tried was the Muse KZ's in my AvondaleNCC200, after two days I ripped them out, bloody awful to be honest🙂
Its crazy how much of an effect capacitors can have
Very interesting. Go on please. 😀
Yeah, it's a shame. Are there other classes of Rubycon that go up and still sound good?
Have you noticed this science fiction thread before?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=64748&highlight=
Look at post nº17 and at all Jneutron's replies.
I have tried it and it worked for me.
Good luck with your mods
Mauricio
it's a shame the Rubycon ZL's don't go up to 63v, I do like those caps
Yeah, it's a shame. Are there other classes of Rubycon that go up and still sound good?
I think the extra height of the higher value FC's is adding to the inductance,
Have you noticed this science fiction thread before?
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=64748&highlight=
Look at post nº17 and at all Jneutron's replies.
I have tried it and it worked for me.
Good luck with your mods

Mauricio
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