I asked a question earlier today to which I have had no response. Perhaps I asked the wrong question !
Can anyone confirm that the Fostex designed horn enclosure for tthe 208 driver works better with the 206 than the specified Fostex horn designed for the 206.
Can anyone confirm that the Fostex designed horn enclosure for tthe 208 driver works better with the 206 than the specified Fostex horn designed for the 206.
Slow down there! Give us a chance! You'll generally find on this forum that people only speak when they have something constructive to say (like the answer to a question for example)...
I can confirm the 208ESigma cabinet is fundamentally a better design than the 206 box which needs considerable tweaking to provide a similar response, and provides somewhat less gain in the LF. Use birch ply over MDF if you can afford it -less energy storage, stiffer, looks better.
I can confirm the 208ESigma cabinet is fundamentally a better design than the 206 box which needs considerable tweaking to provide a similar response, and provides somewhat less gain in the LF. Use birch ply over MDF if you can afford it -less energy storage, stiffer, looks better.
The major reason i worked to design the Dallas2 was the fact that all the sims on my development software i ran on posted designs (at that time) appeared to rely on majorly TL physical principals and not on a blend of the TL/horn action and not take into a factor a distortion of wavefronts over a frequency range. Most tend to just look at the lowest frequency that can be achieved in a BLH (FC). However distortion of the wave at frequencies above FC has to be delt with.
I dont know the 208 fostex design and have never run sims . As i delve deeper into the physics of horns i keep seeing the same principals, that being more of a blend of the actions rather than a reliance on one principal over the other. A TL action is a totally seperate physical action vrs a horn action. If you dont blend the actions then there is a reliance on one action over the other. Nothing aganist TL actions, but without the horn action you achieve a very lumpy and less dynamic sound in the higher frequencies.
The Dallas operation system was an early effort at combining the actions, the Austin principals are more advanced due to refinment of the physical actions.
ron
I dont know the 208 fostex design and have never run sims . As i delve deeper into the physics of horns i keep seeing the same principals, that being more of a blend of the actions rather than a reliance on one principal over the other. A TL action is a totally seperate physical action vrs a horn action. If you dont blend the actions then there is a reliance on one action over the other. Nothing aganist TL actions, but without the horn action you achieve a very lumpy and less dynamic sound in the higher frequencies.
The Dallas operation system was an early effort at combining the actions, the Austin principals are more advanced due to refinment of the physical actions.
ron
Thanks Guys. Yes, I am itching to get something better up and running than the cobbled together BR box. Although I was lucky, the donor cabinet was 45 litres, the same as suggested in the Fostex site.
Scottmoose,
If choosing between the 208 E Sigma and 206-esr cabinet, which would you suggest as the best option for the fe206?
If choosing between the 208 E Sigma and 206-esr cabinet, which would you suggest as the best option for the fe206?
Scottmoose (you must be very popular!)
I have joined the World Designs Forum and seen the excellent site of Simon's where he gives a blow by blow account of building the 208 cabinet. I think that is the one I will go for. Time to get my mate cutting the BBP.
I have joined the World Designs Forum and seen the excellent site of Simon's where he gives a blow by blow account of building the 208 cabinet. I think that is the one I will go for. Time to get my mate cutting the BBP.
The best fullrange Bl is the SAXOPHON,
because it fills the driver below 800 Hz,
this never possible with normal bass horns.
http://www.hm-moreart.de/102.htm
because it fills the driver below 800 Hz,
this never possible with normal bass horns.
http://www.hm-moreart.de/102.htm
Attachments
hm said:
Cool design you got there.... 😎 Just a quick question do you need 2 identical drivers per side.. I was thinking if it's possible to get away by using a slightly cheaper driver mounted on the top.
PS... Just saw the pictures again, looks like you did use a different driver ? But how do you pick the bass/helper driver so that it is suitable for the front-firing Fullranger ?
Closer to a mass-loaded design though -unless there's a large mouth somewhere that I've missed? (It's been known, and I'm thick).
Ron -you make a set of extremely good points. I've yet to hear the Dallas (though I want to) but I know it by reputation, and having run a MathCad sim on it, from which my conclusion is that it's probably the best popular horn design out there for the 206. Only problem I can see is that it's not the easiest build on the planet. Not the hardest either of course, but perhaps not for most beginners. Out of interest, does Austin use reflection boundary conditions (if at all) -I haven't had chance to study that one in any detail, so forgive the daft question.
I'm currently looking further into the stepped Nagaoka type construction. Horn purists will probably wish me burned at the stake, but I can see some merits in the design. Not that they are technically horns of course, but some of the ones I've heard & modelled do seem to work very well indeed.
Puffin -yes, Simon's a friend of mine. Great site isn't it.
Klykx -at present I'd suggest the 208 cabinet if you want a Nagaoka style of stepped horn. The ES-R cab looks like it has potential -it's basically a modified Nagaoka D-58, as far as I can tell, but response is a bit lumpy for my liking in the lower registers, whereas the 208 cabinet is considerably flatter.
Ron -you make a set of extremely good points. I've yet to hear the Dallas (though I want to) but I know it by reputation, and having run a MathCad sim on it, from which my conclusion is that it's probably the best popular horn design out there for the 206. Only problem I can see is that it's not the easiest build on the planet. Not the hardest either of course, but perhaps not for most beginners. Out of interest, does Austin use reflection boundary conditions (if at all) -I haven't had chance to study that one in any detail, so forgive the daft question.
I'm currently looking further into the stepped Nagaoka type construction. Horn purists will probably wish me burned at the stake, but I can see some merits in the design. Not that they are technically horns of course, but some of the ones I've heard & modelled do seem to work very well indeed.
Puffin -yes, Simon's a friend of mine. Great site isn't it.
Klykx -at present I'd suggest the 208 cabinet if you want a Nagaoka style of stepped horn. The ES-R cab looks like it has potential -it's basically a modified Nagaoka D-58, as far as I can tell, but response is a bit lumpy for my liking in the lower registers, whereas the 208 cabinet is considerably flatter.
Btw
google translate helps.
The 206 and all the other needs help below
800 Hz, you can´t get that with a bass horn (max.300 Hz)
The helper driver is a BG20 Visaton 27 Euro,
by invers montage he helps only below 1000 Hz,
and that is only over the room coming because
your ear is below the opening of the top horn.
The new point is an interlacing of the membran movement,
the step resonse is better as can be!!!!!
look the SPL of the driver company data 206 and AN 8"
The first wave of the direct driver is decisive.
google translate helps.
The 206 and all the other needs help below
800 Hz, you can´t get that with a bass horn (max.300 Hz)
The helper driver is a BG20 Visaton 27 Euro,
by invers montage he helps only below 1000 Hz,
and that is only over the room coming because
your ear is below the opening of the top horn.
The new point is an interlacing of the membran movement,
the step resonse is better as can be!!!!!
look the SPL of the driver company data 206 and AN 8"
The first wave of the direct driver is decisive.
I finished building the 208 enclosure for fe206e, no need of sub or correction or anything.
see my post for more....
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1071115#post1071115
see my post for more....
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=1071115#post1071115
Thanks Scottmoose.....I'm going to be putting EX3's in them rather than 206e or 208e Sigma but have been hesitating over whether to build new or buy old lowther cabinets. Considering you and others comments concerning the 208e sigma cabinet, I think I'll be going with them.
Should do the job, though I wouldn't swear to it. The Lowther advertised driver specifications need to be taken with about a ton of salt, so it's difficult to be sure, and I don't know of any independant EX3 measurements. FWIW, The response will be different. Just how different I wouldn't like to say. Luckily the 208 cab has plenty of volume -you might find you'd need to damp it down a bit.
Scottmoose said:
Hi Scott, Puffin.
I'm a very occasional lurker here, in fact this is my first post, and I was rather surprised to see my name mentioned 😱. Thanks for the kind words about my humble site, hopefully it's proving useful to someone.
Cheers,
Simon.
Only a few hundred so far mate 😉
Your step-by-step talk-through is excellent; very useful for anyone contemplating building a Fostex horn (or any other type of horn for that matter).
Your step-by-step talk-through is excellent; very useful for anyone contemplating building a Fostex horn (or any other type of horn for that matter).
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