I've yet to get around to redrawing Ron's horns. The drawings for them were assembled from the bits & pieces i was able to get on the net (the originals dies in a windows crash).
Almost of of the plans that i have done are in vector format when i export them to pdf... if you need the CAD files, send me an email. They are in vectorWorks format, but i can export in many formats (i do expect some of the detail will get lost).
All my files should also be in dual format (all thou on occasion i have shipped out plans in cm/mm dual format). This is easy to do in VectorWorks and i am often working in mm, cm, or inches depending on context.
dave
Almost of of the plans that i have done are in vector format when i export them to pdf... if you need the CAD files, send me an email. They are in vectorWorks format, but i can export in many formats (i do expect some of the detail will get lost).
All my files should also be in dual format (all thou on occasion i have shipped out plans in cm/mm dual format). This is easy to do in VectorWorks and i am often working in mm, cm, or inches depending on context.
dave
Well I moved my room around so that its more speakers friendly.
Setup is like this
Toshiba SD-9200 [amazing source for redbook and DVD-a]
JA Audio tube pre [uses a 6080 and two 12ax7s which are Mazda grey plates]
Pionner Sd-5200 [Nice vintage 10 watt integrated
And of course the Austins
Setup is like this
Toshiba SD-9200 [amazing source for redbook and DVD-a]
JA Audio tube pre [uses a 6080 and two 12ax7s which are Mazda grey plates]
Pionner Sd-5200 [Nice vintage 10 watt integrated
And of course the Austins
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Greg,
Thanks. I did gather (from your pics and this thread) that you used a smaller CC than in the last page. Nice to read that everythings fine.
Dave,
That would be great if you can send me the VectorWorks plans. If several version of the design are incl there, it would be great to point out which is which (if not too much to ask).
The reason I am asking about it is that I read in some other thread ppl complaining that some mm were off here and there (due to conversion ?). Well, I guess the only way to find out is to put the profile on a carboard and see it all fit 🙂
All in all, it does look like I found my spring woodwork challenge. And Dave a customized FE126S customer 🙂
Cheers,
Florian
P.S. One last nag: Any recommended thickness on ply ? 21 mm ?
Thanks. I did gather (from your pics and this thread) that you used a smaller CC than in the last page. Nice to read that everythings fine.
Dave,
That would be great if you can send me the VectorWorks plans. If several version of the design are incl there, it would be great to point out which is which (if not too much to ask).
The reason I am asking about it is that I read in some other thread ppl complaining that some mm were off here and there (due to conversion ?). Well, I guess the only way to find out is to put the profile on a carboard and see it all fit 🙂
All in all, it does look like I found my spring woodwork challenge. And Dave a customized FE126S customer 🙂
Cheers,
Florian
P.S. One last nag: Any recommended thickness on ply ? 21 mm ?
Mail me & we'll work out what you need.
I have an email i haven't pursued with possible errors, but i haven't had a chance to dig into it yet.
All dimensions are intented to be rounded off to 1/16" or 1 mm (i was getting razzed about the 0.1 mm accuracy.
dave
I have an email i haven't pursued with possible errors, but i haven't had a chance to dig into it yet.
All dimensions are intented to be rounded off to 1/16" or 1 mm (i was getting razzed about the 0.1 mm accuracy.
dave
Apologies for the hijack.
Dave and all,
I have almost finished my version of the Austin 166's, to be used with 166es-r's.
I have been a bit creative in that I too found that not everything measured up, to me anyway, I might be looking at it all wrong though.
Anyway, I drew what I could out to "scale" on the ply and measured and cut.
Having said that, getting the enclosure laid out to + / - 1mm "used" to be easy enough for me but with the crap plywood I am paying top dollar for these days its nigh impossible.
I ended up using laminate on the bends to keep the expansion as per the plans (although it has been my experience with two pairs of Buschorns, one with and one without, that using laminates in the bends to smooth it out sounds better. The expanding wave should not care but my ears do.)
This crap plywood is almost like real lumber, you cut and it twists!
Thanks to Ron for the design and Dave for drawings.
Dave and all,
I have almost finished my version of the Austin 166's, to be used with 166es-r's.
I have been a bit creative in that I too found that not everything measured up, to me anyway, I might be looking at it all wrong though.
Anyway, I drew what I could out to "scale" on the ply and measured and cut.
Having said that, getting the enclosure laid out to + / - 1mm "used" to be easy enough for me but with the crap plywood I am paying top dollar for these days its nigh impossible.
I ended up using laminate on the bends to keep the expansion as per the plans (although it has been my experience with two pairs of Buschorns, one with and one without, that using laminates in the bends to smooth it out sounds better. The expanding wave should not care but my ears do.)
This crap plywood is almost like real lumber, you cut and it twists!
Thanks to Ron for the design and Dave for drawings.
Andrewbee said:
So far all the RonHorn drawings are Ron's. I just gathered them together in one place.
When i get done with them, they will look like the Spawn or the Frugel-Horn or the Dalek drawings.
dave
Phergus_25 said:
Greg,
Ply questions:
- What thickness did you use ? After a look at the building plans I figured it out to 18 mm. Can you pls confirm ?
- From your pics the ply looks like "building" ply (e.g. ply for cases, packing boxes, transport and such). Wonder if I should go for baltic birch from the first get go or build them in low quality ply as a test then go for the expensive stuff.
Rgrds,
Florian
Void free baltic birch. Do it right first time. It's not cheap in itself, but works out cheaper in the long run.
well, here the price difference btw the cabinet grade and the baltic birch is about a factor of 4 ...
Florian
Florian
O I see. From what I read and the sticker said, I just re checked, this is Birch. Not sure what kind tho.
-greg
-greg
Another question:
I start looking a bit more carefully at the plans and there are some inconsistencies (e.g. on page 3 of the PDF there two "1" parts -- the front baffle and the small rounded corner btw part "9" and part "7". That should have been part "2" instead). Anyway, I'll make a list an mail it to Dave. Or post it here 🙂
Greg,
In the pic on page 3 of the PDF the sole of the speaker (part "9") is drawn both wider and deeper than the speaker (seen from the speaker front). Also, the front baffle sits _on_ the sole i.e. does not go all the way (i.e. flush with the bottom of the sole) like in your pictures.
Can you please list the length of front baffle and the length of the sole like in your pics ? I gather there would be different internal dimensions if the front baffle sits _on_ the sole or it is flush to the ground (spikes not incl) . Also, how deep the sole should go is uncertain...
Sorry if being too picky,
Florian
I start looking a bit more carefully at the plans and there are some inconsistencies (e.g. on page 3 of the PDF there two "1" parts -- the front baffle and the small rounded corner btw part "9" and part "7". That should have been part "2" instead). Anyway, I'll make a list an mail it to Dave. Or post it here 🙂
Greg,
In the pic on page 3 of the PDF the sole of the speaker (part "9") is drawn both wider and deeper than the speaker (seen from the speaker front). Also, the front baffle sits _on_ the sole i.e. does not go all the way (i.e. flush with the bottom of the sole) like in your pictures.
Can you please list the length of front baffle and the length of the sole like in your pics ? I gather there would be different internal dimensions if the front baffle sits _on_ the sole or it is flush to the ground (spikes not incl) . Also, how deep the sole should go is uncertain...
Sorry if being too picky,
Florian
Ok great. sOrry I had to just kinda wing it on those parts. I just cut the wood into 6.1" pieces and started cutting parts and laying it in the pattern.
Glad you got it and deff post a link in here so I can find yours.
-greg
Glad you got it and deff post a link in here so I can find yours.
-greg
What are some of the mods people do to these drivers, I have seen alot of pics with something on the basket, but i cant find waht that is.
thanks
-greg
thanks
-greg
Start here... there is a link to a thread that describes the 1st crack at it ... the process has been refined somewhat. In my queue is a more up-to-date page describing the mods. If you have any questions email me.
The difference between a stock driver & a modified one are not subtle (but it is possible to go overboard)
dave
The difference between a stock driver & a modified one are not subtle (but it is possible to go overboard)
dave
Attachments
- Status
- Not open for further replies.