Hi, which system will be better, bliesma t34b, satori md60n, satori mr16p-8, or bliesma t34b, bliesma m74a, supported by two subwoofers sb34nrxl, for me the first option is preferable, but if it will be worse, you can make the second, it will be easier to build, thank you in advance.
@Krab007 I don't fully understand the question you're asking. Are you looking at building a 4 way or 3 way system? The SB34NRXL will play higher up than most 12" woofers, but you'll likely need a 6 - 8" midbass to properly blend to the M74A. A 500 hz LP is difficult to pull off with the SB34NRXL and maintain even power response. A minimal curved baffle would make things more flexible.
I don't know yet, but today I managed to buy a wo24p-8 at a good price, so I'm thinking of making a closed box for 33 liters, can the wo24p-8 be crossed with the M74A? plus one sb34nrxl or sb34swnrx, and what would be better as a single subwoofer operating up to 45-80 hertz,
I have never worked with the WO24-P, but based on the published specs and test data, it seems like a great driver to operate up to the 500 Hz crossover to an M74A. The Sd is small enough that its directivity is very wide at 500 Hz, similar to the M74A, so there is less directivity mismatch than there is with larger drivers.
@Krab007: WO24P is a great driver for bass and lower mids.. I have 4 of them in sealed 32litre cabinet each, which I have used in various configurations. But making it play upto a 1000Hz or so can depend on ones personal 'tastes' and how good one is able to supress its break up. If that breakup is not supressed properly, it will definitely make itself known/heard.
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I have machined the transition blocks. These are laminated sections which will be located under the Mid-Tweeter baffle and transition the deep bevels into the rectilinear woofer baffle.
I made lamination of 3 layers of wood, then cut the angles on a band saw.
I made an error while cutting one of the blocks, and got the angle wrong (see below, notice the right side). I had to make another 3-layer lamination, cut it to size, and re-do the angled cuts...
j.
I made lamination of 3 layers of wood, then cut the angles on a band saw.
I made an error while cutting one of the blocks, and got the angle wrong (see below, notice the right side). I had to make another 3-layer lamination, cut it to size, and re-do the angled cuts...
j.
I have not posted much in the last week, because most of what is happening is just cutting and shaping of plywood panels and braces.
I have two more braces to cut, then I can start assembling the inner carcass. ....... j.
I have two more braces to cut, then I can start assembling the inner carcass. ....... j.
hifijim,
You are busy.
Looks a lot of hard surfaces going into the enclosures.
I am curious to see a Impulse Plot of the inside of the enclosure with a in the box microphone. Purifi uses a in facing tweeter to make the in the box measurements.
My in the box measurements show a longer time duration for the response in the enclosure to attenuate than the Impulse Response measured outside the box.
Thanks DT
You are busy.
Looks a lot of hard surfaces going into the enclosures.
I am curious to see a Impulse Plot of the inside of the enclosure with a in the box microphone. Purifi uses a in facing tweeter to make the in the box measurements.
My in the box measurements show a longer time duration for the response in the enclosure to attenuate than the Impulse Response measured outside the box.
Thanks DT
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Busy, perhaps. I am retired, so much less busy than I used to be. Some retired guys play golf, some go to sporting events, I design and build speakers, among other things...
Yes, there are a lot of hard surfaces in the interior. Here is a mockup (no glue) showing the locations of the bracing.
The M74A does not need any subenclosure, although I will shield both the tweeter and mid from the woofer radiation with a layer of 1/2" plywood. So the entire cabinet interior is available to the woofer. I use a lot of U-braces, with just one bulkhead (hole brace) in the middle. The air space available to the woofer is not long enough to be a transmission line, but it can be thought of as a labyrinth. It will be fully stuffed with wool, and the walls will be lined with 120 mil butyl rubber damping. The spacing between braces varies from 70 mm to 100 mm, so the frequency of any brace-to-brace acoustic resonance will be well above the woofer bandwidth.
I have used a similar construction in prior projects. The near field scan of the woofer will reveal any internal resonance or stored energy that makes it through the cone diaphragm... if it does not make it through the cone, it does not matter. I also use NF scans of the cabinet walls to detect cabinet structural resonances. I intend this cabinet to be very stiff, and I want the cabinet structural resonances to be above the woofer bandwidth.
Yes, there are a lot of hard surfaces in the interior. Here is a mockup (no glue) showing the locations of the bracing.
The M74A does not need any subenclosure, although I will shield both the tweeter and mid from the woofer radiation with a layer of 1/2" plywood. So the entire cabinet interior is available to the woofer. I use a lot of U-braces, with just one bulkhead (hole brace) in the middle. The air space available to the woofer is not long enough to be a transmission line, but it can be thought of as a labyrinth. It will be fully stuffed with wool, and the walls will be lined with 120 mil butyl rubber damping. The spacing between braces varies from 70 mm to 100 mm, so the frequency of any brace-to-brace acoustic resonance will be well above the woofer bandwidth.
I have used a similar construction in prior projects. The near field scan of the woofer will reveal any internal resonance or stored energy that makes it through the cone diaphragm... if it does not make it through the cone, it does not matter. I also use NF scans of the cabinet walls to detect cabinet structural resonances. I intend this cabinet to be very stiff, and I want the cabinet structural resonances to be above the woofer bandwidth.
Hifijim,
Thanks for sharing your insights.
Also retired.
My wife and I are heading to the Coachella desert for a week or so before it gets too hot.
Thanks DT
I am also retired, but now quite busy with what we want to do. For me that includes getting back into loudspeaker design and system optimisation. But also more time listening to music.
Screws are not needed when using wood glue and lots of pressure when gluing the different parts.
That means using lots of bar clamps
The glue junction is often stronger than the wood.
That means using lots of bar clamps
The glue junction is often stronger than the wood.
I use screws when convenient, mostly to ensure alignment. As @danny_66 says, glue provides all the strength that is needed for a speaker cabinet.
Just to be clear, the photo above in post 471 shows the braces set up in the (approximate) positioning. Nothing is attached in this photo, the panels and just leaning against each other and balanced on end.
Just to be clear, the photo above in post 471 shows the braces set up in the (approximate) positioning. Nothing is attached in this photo, the panels and just leaning against each other and balanced on end.
T34B and Satori MD60n doesn't make a lot of sense.
T34B and M74a will work better but you can go to T25B when you don't need the last few dBSpl max power. SB34nrxl works well under a M74A, I did that active and passive. But I would do a 3.5way speaker to make it perfect. But 2 WO24P will be more living room friendly and are easier to cross over. But they will need about the same closed volume and I would still make it 3.5way.
LamJF,here they wrote that WO24P needs a volume of 32 liters for a closed box, and you suggest 50 liters as for sb34nrxl, did I understand you correctly?
With the original TSPs WO24P and SB34NRXL would both need 38L for Q of 0,70.
With my own measurements I would take more fore the SB34NRXL. I have the WO24P here but didn't measure TSP for now.
But closed boxes are pretty tolerant to volumes, when stuffing with wool 32L are probably OK. You will not hear the difference between Q=0,7 and Q=0,75 in a room - both is great.
With my own measurements I would take more fore the SB34NRXL. I have the WO24P here but didn't measure TSP for now.
But closed boxes are pretty tolerant to volumes, when stuffing with wool 32L are probably OK. You will not hear the difference between Q=0,7 and Q=0,75 in a room - both is great.
Wouldn't 32 litres produce excessive midbas bump (50-150 Hz) of few decibels with SB34NRXL? I like tunings with 1-2 dBs above flat, but not 5 dBs, then you get that shallow and short bass thump with every note....SB34NRXL has 200 litres Vas...WO24 has much less.....