tbla said:
Are you sure?
The woofer is the front panel, I mean... the front panel is the woofer... I mean it's a one piece thing!
I mean... it has 4 metal bars front to back, on the corners, you can see them on the back panel.
I suppose they must have screws holding them?😕
ehhhhhh (no) - perhaps it looks like a "one piece" thing, the front panel could be glued on after the drivers have been mounted.
perhaps a hammer and a big screwdriver....
.................if it goes wrong you have the link for a substitute...........😀btw i remember reading a review of the krell monster fpb300 by martin collums, one of the speakers used was actually the epos.........never found out if it survived.....😀
tbla said:ehhhhhh (no) - perhaps it looks like a "one piece" thing, the front panel could be glued on after the drivers have been mounted.
perhaps a hammer and a big screwdriver....
tbla, if you google a little, you'll find out that this IS a one piece thing, the woofer is molded on the front panel, it's a one piece thing, I think you have all the story on Epos' site.
This speaker doesn't sound like a box speaker, and this is one of the tricks they used, along with those metal bars.😉
The box is completely free of resonances, it seams like you're knocking on a rock.😀
Nooooooo!
The mid/bass driver *is* part of the front baffle, it's a one piece moulding, the rear is also plastic, 4 long bolts hold the front and back together with the wood cabinet sandwiched between. This is one of the design features that made the ES11 standout when it was first released. A scalpel is going to cause mucho damage! 😱
NealG said:
That is how the B&W 302 was made too... if you are big enuff to amortize the tooling on the plstic, it makes for a good box design.
dave
......NealG said:Nooooooo!
Calm down guys, I wouldn't do that, I know my speakers.😀
tbla was jus trying to "help".😀
why not just shoot a mail to epos and ask........
That's a good one, it never passed my mind...
Gotta try that, maby I get an answer from Mr. Michael Creek.😎
My experience with brands is not very good...
Some years ago I e-mailed Nad to buy a service manual (or just a schematic) of my old amp.
They answered and told me to contact the distributor in Portugal.
Ok, I phoned them.
Answer: "we don't sell that, only with permission from the factory".
I said: "The factory told me to contact you".
And they continued: "look, we have technical assistance, we can repair your amp".
My amp didn't have a problem, I just wanted the schematic.
Result: nothing.
I sold the amp, Nad never more, thank you.
I give very importance to customer service.
No service, no buy.
Yamaha gives these answers too...
Gotta try that, maby I get an answer from Mr. Michael Creek.😎
My experience with brands is not very good...
Some years ago I e-mailed Nad to buy a service manual (or just a schematic) of my old amp.
They answered and told me to contact the distributor in Portugal.
Ok, I phoned them.
Answer: "we don't sell that, only with permission from the factory".
I said: "The factory told me to contact you".
And they continued: "look, we have technical assistance, we can repair your amp".
My amp didn't have a problem, I just wanted the schematic.
Result: nothing.
I sold the amp, Nad never more, thank you.
I give very importance to customer service.
No service, no buy.
Yamaha gives these answers too...
Carlos,
I had the ES11 for 10 years, so I suspect I had an older version than you have... anyway, they had rubber 'sockets' in the corners which could hold a solid protection panel made of plastic. You could remove those sockets with a screwdriver, just by poking into them and pulling them out _gently_. Behind them were the bolts, accessible with the right tools.
Anyway, they gained a lot by changing the crossover caps for better ones (there's only one cap per speaker, the mid/bass driver is connected directly to the speaker terminals). I changed them for Mundorf caps and rewired them with DNM/Reson cable (the same cable that is used in the newer Epos speakers). The slightly sizzly treble got much smoother, worth the effort IMHO.
FWIW, depending on the context of the system (and the room) I don't think Rega Juras a necessarily a downgrade, a sidegrade maybe... but this is just my personal opinion, of course. 🙂
Best regards,
Oliver
I had the ES11 for 10 years, so I suspect I had an older version than you have... anyway, they had rubber 'sockets' in the corners which could hold a solid protection panel made of plastic. You could remove those sockets with a screwdriver, just by poking into them and pulling them out _gently_. Behind them were the bolts, accessible with the right tools.
Anyway, they gained a lot by changing the crossover caps for better ones (there's only one cap per speaker, the mid/bass driver is connected directly to the speaker terminals). I changed them for Mundorf caps and rewired them with DNM/Reson cable (the same cable that is used in the newer Epos speakers). The slightly sizzly treble got much smoother, worth the effort IMHO.
FWIW, depending on the context of the system (and the room) I don't think Rega Juras a necessarily a downgrade, a sidegrade maybe... but this is just my personal opinion, of course. 🙂
Best regards,
Oliver
Oliver, thanks for the advice.😎
Yes, mine are the newer ones, and looking inside the reflex port I can recognize DNM Reson speaker cable.
I don't know if the cap used is the same as the older ones, but I've been told that those Mundorf are very good, I may give it a try.
As for the Regas, I know very well the Jura and the Ela.
The Ela are excellent speakers, on the same league as my Epos.
The Juras don't get there, clearly.
😎
BTW do you remember the value of the cap?
Yes, mine are the newer ones, and looking inside the reflex port I can recognize DNM Reson speaker cable.
I don't know if the cap used is the same as the older ones, but I've been told that those Mundorf are very good, I may give it a try.
As for the Regas, I know very well the Jura and the Ela.
The Ela are excellent speakers, on the same league as my Epos.
The Juras don't get there, clearly.
😎
BTW do you remember the value of the cap?
Carlos,
I just had a quick raid through my electronic 'waste', but couldn't find the caps (I probably gave them to the person who got the Epos). From the back of my mind I'd say 3-3.3uF, somewhere in that area.
The caps were upgraded at one point in ES11 production, so you may already have a better one than I had. But I doubt it would be on par with a Solen or a Mundorf (a plain MCap should be sufficient).
Best regards,
Oliver
I just had a quick raid through my electronic 'waste', but couldn't find the caps (I probably gave them to the person who got the Epos). From the back of my mind I'd say 3-3.3uF, somewhere in that area.
The caps were upgraded at one point in ES11 production, so you may already have a better one than I had. But I doubt it would be on par with a Solen or a Mundorf (a plain MCap should be sufficient).
Best regards,
Oliver
Carlos,
while looking for decoupling caps for my NOS1543 DAC I found the Epos' caps; they're Bennic XPP 1.5uF types. Compared to more advanced caps they seem to have a pretty high resistance; you might need a resistor in series to maintain the balance.
Best regards,
Oliver
while looking for decoupling caps for my NOS1543 DAC I found the Epos' caps; they're Bennic XPP 1.5uF types. Compared to more advanced caps they seem to have a pretty high resistance; you might need a resistor in series to maintain the balance.
Best regards,
Oliver
tbla said:
I do not know why, but I always liked the Jensen tin foil the best. I liked them over the newer style UN UK copper foil caps with the copper cans also.
Now, using solid state, I am a firm believer in the el cheapo Siemens stacked foil caps. A 2.2 ufd 100 volt is 2.00 USD locally. The 1.0 ufd 100v are 25 cents at another surplus store. Once in circuit for a while they disapear sonically. They have slowly replaced all the PIO and other types.
They may not handle the current of a loudspeakers, but tweeters do not handle that much anyway. The fine wires in the voice coil should smoke before one of these caps.
George
carlosfm said:
Email with your address, I have plenty. A 1.0 and 0.47 in parallel should fix you up. I can measure to get it right on 1.5 ufd.
They may clear up fairly quick with the current seen in a speaker crossover. I use these in my Pass Pearl for the RIAA caps. Justed matched them up with a good quality meter.
I am even using a 1.0 ufd 100v to couple my homemade head amp into the 47K input. With the mv ac, micro amp currents, and low dc bias it took a while for the sound to gel. But it is great now.
I have no idea what the dielectric is, but it is more than made up by the construction. Just plates, and dielectric, then tinned copper pins at each end.
These were first tried by me as a bypass on decoupling caps. But they as maybe even better used as a coupling cap. All my use has been in source level outputs, low ac, high impedance termination.
George
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