I'm quite happy with my 2U rack box. I've fitted in a dual-mono Buffalo II/dual Ivy III setup, with Ventus EZs for SE output as well as the BBB-Hermes-Cronus. I'm not sure I could fit much else in there though!
As far as BBB power goes, I'm using a dinky little Mean Well 5V supply ( RS-25-5) . Reasonably priced, rock solid voltage and plenty of power (5A).
As far as BBB power goes, I'm using a dinky little Mean Well 5V supply ( RS-25-5) . Reasonably priced, rock solid voltage and plenty of power (5A).
Hissing means, that it is not completely broken, that there is some signal going, but it might not be right.
With ext_masterclk=0 the onboard clock on BBB is activated. This should work even without Hermes-BBB/Cronus attached.
I think you have HW problem in your setup. Try to post detailed photos of you Hermes/Cronus and wiring here...
Hi,
I have the BBB-Hermes-Cronus up and running and it plays beautiful music🙂
Strange thing is that the EN-LED is not lighting up, even though everything seems to work perfectly.
I have checked this:
- LED is mounted the correct way
- Snd_soc_botic.ext_masterclk = 3
- Dac is able to recieve both 44,1 kHz and 48 kHz frequencies through BBB-Hermes-Cronus.
- DAC gets lock with DPLL set to lowest when playing 44,1 kHz I2S
Is it possible that the BBB isn't using the external masterclocks?
I have the BBB-Hermes-Cronus up and running and it plays beautiful music🙂
Strange thing is that the EN-LED is not lighting up, even though everything seems to work perfectly.
I have checked this:
- LED is mounted the correct way
- Snd_soc_botic.ext_masterclk = 3
- Dac is able to recieve both 44,1 kHz and 48 kHz frequencies through BBB-Hermes-Cronus.
- DAC gets lock with DPLL set to lowest when playing 44,1 kHz I2S
Is it possible that the BBB isn't using the external masterclocks?
In not sure we need to worry about an LED not lighting up. One of mine never has and there's nothing wrong with it.
The LED not lighting is a mystery, but certainly not critical.
It is quite common to accidently mount an LED backward.
If you reverse the LED and it still does not light - then look for dry solder joints on all components from the BBB header to the LED.
It is quite common to accidently mount an LED backward.
If you reverse the LED and it still does not light - then look for dry solder joints on all components from the BBB header to the LED.
True, although luckily, the anode and cathode in the body of the LED are differently shaped, so I just look at those. If they're all facing the same way, I know that I've installed them the correct way around.
Ok, thanks!
Maybe I will try to resolder later.
But as long as music is playing I'm happy 🙂
Thanks for the reply, Duffy! That 5V power supply looks ideal!
Your 2U box must make very efficient use of space! At first I was planning on a tight layout in a single rack box with ~1.5-2" direct wire connections between Cronus and DACs. But then tinkering with the BBB would be very challenging, and I would like to contribute in small ways to software development. So I'm liking the suggestion by Russ to use Teleporters and divide into 2 . Still looking for a really elegant enclosure that is about 12"X8"X2"...
Cheers,
Frank
Hi Russ/Brian,
Received my kits two days ago and was only able to put them together, this arvo. The process was straight forward and easy enough. After spending 30mins, power is plugged in and worked first time without hiccup! Touch wood!
Hermes/Cronus setup is now in place and is working fantastic!
Many thanks Guys!
Chanh
Received my kits two days ago and was only able to put them together, this arvo. The process was straight forward and easy enough. After spending 30mins, power is plugged in and worked first time without hiccup! Touch wood!
Hermes/Cronus setup is now in place and is working fantastic!
Many thanks Guys!
Chanh
The hardware is likely to be obsoleted long before the software, so not really. SSH takes care of most needs, and putting the BBB near whichever part of the case is to be removed first, for direct access, by way of disassembly, should really be fine.
I don't know that I can fit everything, without interference issues, but I'm trying to use a case I saved from the trash (best kind of enclosure! 🙂), that's very close in design and size to a Hammond 1402DV, which would be a nice alternative case itself.
Look at Hirose circular push-pulls. Not cheap, but still less expensive than Amphenol or Lemo, and have solder cup versions.
For testing, 7805 and 317. In the end, JP's Squeezebox Touch PSUs, or custom Salas Reflectors, depending on how it all goes down (size, and case-mounted heatsinking, will both matter). Compact transformers mostly being PC mount, but most not using 0.1" spacing, is fairly annoying, when it comes to PSUs, IME, due to the high learning curve of basically every PCB design suite.
Many thanks for these suggestions! I think we agree that the BBB is the one of many components that should have the best access. I'm rebuilding into a new space and will again use a rack, which is tidy but SO inconvenient for tweaking components.
Putting Teleporters super-close to the Cronus rules out the Hammond 1402DV for me, but I could use an 8X8" version of these: Hammond RM-U (Half-Width) Series Table-Top/Mountable Instrument Racks With the flat top I could easily split it and put in a piano hinge! THAT would be convenient access! 😉 Casework is not my favorite aspect of DIY, and I would only have to make one small, presentable front panel.
I'm even thinking of putting power to the whole rack on a solenoid and having the BBB turn the DACs, amps, etc. on and off. So, those nice 'umbilical' connectors will be put to a variety of good uses...
Cheers,
Frank
Putting Teleporters super-close to the Cronus rules out the Hammond 1402DV for me, but I could use an 8X8" version of these: Hammond RM-U (Half-Width) Series Table-Top/Mountable Instrument Racks With the flat top I could easily split it and put in a piano hinge! THAT would be convenient access! 😉 Casework is not my favorite aspect of DIY, and I would only have to make one small, presentable front panel.
I'm even thinking of putting power to the whole rack on a solenoid and having the BBB turn the DACs, amps, etc. on and off. So, those nice 'umbilical' connectors will be put to a variety of good uses...
Cheers,
Frank
docs?
Any new wrt to the docs? Would be nice to have them as a reference (especially for battery usage).
Any new wrt to the docs? Would be nice to have them as a reference (especially for battery usage).
Battery & LEDS
I've got a battery installed on the Hermes. Shorted the
jumper.
When the unit is powered off (DAC/BBB/Hermes/Cronus),
two of the four BBB LEDS stay on! Is this normal? 😕
I've got a battery installed on the Hermes. Shorted the
jumper.
When the unit is powered off (DAC/BBB/Hermes/Cronus),
two of the four BBB LEDS stay on! Is this normal? 😕
For the battery input I used a jack mounted on the board, where it says 'ext bat', since the battery came with a connector. Jumpered J1 .
Does that make a difference where the battery is connected? It would seem so.
And yes, it must have been running all night. When I checked the mpd.log file
this morning it had over 250,000 mpd errors!
Attachments
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It makes no difference which battery input terminal you use. They are the same.
It sounds like the shutdown is not being initiated when you remove AC power - make sure there is no power being applied to the BBB - at all. You must remove power at the barrel connector if that is what you are using.
If you are removing the 5V from the BBB then this sounds like this needs to be a botic distro support post.
It sounds like the shutdown is not being initiated when you remove AC power - make sure there is no power being applied to the BBB - at all. You must remove power at the barrel connector if that is what you are using.
If you are removing the 5V from the BBB then this sounds like this needs to be a botic distro support post.
Hi everyone! What is maximum current needed for BBB with Hermes, I wonder? I want to build a SSLV for this setup.
Your suggestion please? A suitable FET to drive a 5v 200mA relay from BBB GPIO - small package & no heat issues.
TIA!
TIA!