Help reverse engineering sim THAM15DS

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Hello gentlemen,
I just finished reading this entire thread, and I must admit I quite enjoyed the learning experience thanks! I have been in search and hoping to find an affordable and equally comparable updated solution to the B&C 15TBX100 that was recommended for the build by Mr Martinsson in 2009. Certainty there has to be other options by now without enlarging the whole build to compensate? I think the intended idea was to be a compact solution, and while enlarging the concept will indeed help it produce better results I feel it is drifting away from the intended idea.. I am quite impressed that Mr Martinssons original design is still giving you guys who are trying to modify it and better it a run for their money! Clearly he is ahead of his time as a skilled engineer. I solute you good sir!:cheers: After much researching all of the alternatives that I have came across in the compact category I think the original THAM 15 still the way to go..
I do also look forward to learning of any findings that have made further improvements on the original design.

So sticking with the original build for now are there possibly a few updated driver options that anyone compared to the original.. That would be awesome!

Also.... It seems as though the Dayton Audio PA385S-8 15 is a not a good choice for the THAM 15 do to improper specs from the manufacture? What ever ended up happening with that I am curious... Sounded like they were none the less giving the run around IMHO, and makes me a bit leery. A mistake by the manufacture, or a fabrication on specs? :mischiev: You be the judge....
Anyway....
I am hoping to start my THAM 15 soon and I am new to DIY enclosure builds, but I am confident, and very excited in starting my build!
Thank you in advance.,,
P.S. If anyone has the cut sheet for the original THAM 15 it would be much help, and greatly appreciated! Novice here, need all the help I can get..
Will 3/4" plywood effect this build? As I live in the States, and my options are limited to (3/4"=19.05mm or 1/2"=12.7) Plywood/MDF
I am going to practice with the MDF first before I shell out $70 dollars for Baltic Birch plus shipping...
Have a great day...
 
I have simmed a couple of drivers in the past.

measurements-drivers-at-xmax.jpg

Large view

The drivers in the above sims are cheap (100 euro) and very expensive (480 euro)
I settled with the Oberton 15B500, you can get them for 100 euro if you buy more than one. You can use a 400 euro driver for 4 or 6 db extra. But the tham15 shines in multiples. You should build at least 4.

In a stack of 6 (3x3), you can reach 140db in the 40hz - 170hz The dip and peaks in the upper bands are virtually gone. With some EQ tweaks you can reach 250hz. They are lightweight and small and easy to transport, in comparision to a TH18 for example.

if you add extra side panels with handles cut out, and put wheels on the back. I find the tham15 pretty modulair and have a small footprint in the storage. Check out my gallery for handle option.
 
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Hello all,

I am a DJ and DIY speaker builder. I have been interested in building a set of Tham 15 subwoofers for some time. I have planned on picking up a set of 15TBX100 woofers when convenient. I did however make an impulse buy last week. I picked up a set of two PA385 woofers on sale, with a coupon code they cost me $280 shipped to my door.

I am dead set on building a tapped horn. The Tham 15 will fit my needs very well.

After reading this thread, it is not clear if the PA385 will work well in the Tham. Does anyone have any experience with this woofer in a Tham or other tapped horn? Is it confirmed that the specs are incorrect(higher qts, lower bl)? If the published specs are close to actual woofer specs, does the PA-385 work decently well? If the published specs are no where close, how will that effect performance?

I appreciate the help!
 
Skeem,
The PA385 sims great in pretty much anything. Honestly, it was a favorite of mine for some time. However, a guy measured and discovered that the specs of his were pretty far off and since then we consider them suspect. That said, Art Welter a well know veteran pro sound builder was quite happy with his in PPSL alignment. When simming, these drivers look identical and the performance crazy good. My personal opinion would be that these are nice drivers but they aren't on the same level as the B&C. I expect the PA385 to do 75% of the B&C but I am bargain hunter probably would have done the same as you. Another way of looking at it. We all know that point where you're pushing a system and it can't go farther. I think the B&C would go farther beyond that point to the extent it is surprising.
 
I am quite impressed that Mr Martinssons original design is still giving you guys who are trying to modify it and better it a run for their money! Clearly he is ahead of his time as a skilled engineer. I solute you good sir!
Thank you for those kind words, and although it is true that the final design was mine, and that it was not without it's fair share of criticism in it's day, the way there was indeed a collective effort, among the contributors one guy always stands out, big time, Johannes Rodin, and since then that's the way it has always been.

Taken to it's core it was in many ways just as much a product of all the insight, tools, help, and knowledge shared, for free, by fellow diy'ers in forums like this one.

This is the reason why all designs published by me are free to build, expand, alter and develop, without limitations, and to this date I have not made any money, none at all, through these designs, i took the last step of many provided for free, why charge for it?

I live a privileged life, had it been differently, who knows... so I would not say that it is the right way, but given my circumstances it seemed right to me at the time, and it still does.
 
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