Help please with my poorly Stasis 2

Love the grammar 🤣
And doobries ! Thought I was the only relic using that word, brilliant.

That resistor is a 10ohm whereas the others are 1, 1.5 and 1.8 .
I’ll check all traces when I get home, actually when I connected the right channel it blew a fuse coz there was the tiniest bit of solder bridging the blue lines .
 
Yeah it's a technical term that's sadly gone out of common use. Along with thingy, whotsit and thingamajig.

My point about the resistor wasn't the value but the termination. I'd been assuming there were L&R channels so I'd expected both channels to be identical & symmetrical. The one on the left looks odd-different with the topmost leg of the first resistor soldered to the trace the trannies are bolted to...

My only other advice would be to walk away, do another job or two and then go back to this, starting with what should be fresh eyes on every bit of soldering.

Everyone here has had this sort of experience & knows debugging is hard and that sometimes things make much more sense after a break....
 
Greenhorn rebuilding an old knackered Stasis is just a big leap. The simple amplifiers (ACA+, Zenductor, etc.) are just so much easier to get going when you're just starting out and don't really know what you're doing yet. Then you can slowly climb the ladder to more complex projects as you gain knowledge. As opposed to the "run and jump... uh-oh" technique... But I'm sure you're learning a lot and might get it figured out at some point.

New speaker builder guys run into the same thing. "I am now going to build the world's greatest speakers..." But they don't have any woodworking equipment or skill, understanding of crossover networks, etc. And they've already dropped huge money on the latest and greatest super fancy drivers that are very difficult to implement properly.
 
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Build yourself a pair of these William ( these are waiting for the stasis )
 
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these are waiting for the stasis
Be a shame to disappoint them, wouldn't it? You're in at the deep end for sure. But swim, don't sink or climb out.

Compared to most I'm an utter noob, but the one thing I can do to compensate is to be ultra organised and methodical. I triple check everything before soldering and then check the boards and wiring at least twice before switching anything on.

What's nice is that stereo almost always means symmetry. Plonk left and right next to each other and if you've kept to a consistent soldering stlye inconsistencies are easily found. Even bridges are easier to spot on side to side comparison.

It is painstaking, but, like programming, the earlier you spot an error the less costly it will be.

An hour is the most you should spend concentrating on something like this then take a break.
 
Yeah it's a technical term that's sadly gone out of common use. Along with thingy, whotsit and thingamajig.

My point about the resistor wasn't the value but the termination. I'd been assuming there were L&R channels so I'd expected both channels to be identical & symmetrical. The one on the left looks odd-different with the topmost leg of the first resistor soldered to the trace the trannies are bolted to...

My only other advice would be to walk away, do another job or two and then go back to this, starting with what should be fresh eyes on every bit of soldering.

Everyone here has had this sort of experience & knows debugging is hard and that sometimes things make much more sense after a break....
Back home now . I now see what you mean but it is correct ( or at least that’s how the originals were )

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It's not the same as the original. IMO. LH heatsink, LH column, bottom resistor. The the top lead terminates differently.

Go back and look at what I highlighted af few posts back. Interestingly your original photo has a spot of solder where your resistor terminates now, so I suspect the original 'repair' made this mistake and left the solder behind as a souvenir.

Can someone else check my post #300 where I've highlighted a resistor and compare it with the photo in #314. Have I just made a mistake?

Of course I'm working from the photos. If I was in the UK (I'm away, holidays) I'd offer to pop round as I'm often in Buckingham and we could go over it together...
 
Either way, it's in the right place now. Still concerned about some of the solder work I can see. Look at the RF board on the RH side at the resistors in that area. There's a lot of solder and flux and I can't tell from the photo if the resistor opposite the red dot upper lead isn't part of a bridge across a blue line. It's difficult working from photos 🙁

At this point I retire from this. I don't want to muddy the water any more than I have.
 
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Are you certain Q6 and Q7 are in correctly? Like you i was up late working on mine. One channel biased up but the other channel wouldnt. I went to sleep, relooked at everything in the morning and retraced the fault to one of those transistors being backwards. Also another goof up i did was breaking a lead to the thermostat when i was finally mounting it. I couldn’t get any bias