It looks like those require soldering to some adapter board to get them to fit a standard 8-pin IC socket.
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/texas-instruments/OPA1642AID/2202257
The genuine Burr-Brown OPA 2604 sound excellent in th this little DAC. The included fake OPA1612 labelled "OVII" are ok, but not nearly as good as genuine BB OPA 2604. Oracle II -02 was not to my liking as the bass and sub-bass are too light in my opinion. Burr-Brown's bass presentation always has appealed to me.
The bluetooth board popped right off with a razor blade, and yes it did change the sound. It's hard to describe how. Everything sounds "less loud" at the same volume if you will, which usually is a good sign.
Hi it are not fake OPA1612 but unknown type opamps. The association with OPA1612 is unjustified whatever is written on the outside. You could use the adapter PCBs of the fake opamps for unmanipulated/original SOIC opamp types. SOIC is standard in 2023 and DIL is old. Newer but even smaller formats are gaining terrain. Manufacturers only use DIL for customers involved in opamp rolling with obsolete and superseded types. That is a section in audio where laymen can still do something.
Yeah I know of the technique with the razorblade as I gave that tip. Bluetooth is RF where one does not want it.
Yeah I know of the technique with the razorblade as I gave that tip. Bluetooth is RF where one does not want it.
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Yes, but I am not sure that I am equipped or able to solder them. I will search online as it is a skill that might come in handy in the future.
Agreed!
That skill is already decades old 🙂 If you learn it it will only have benefits. Small issue is that even smaller formats will eventually replace SOIC.
Please check the thread on OPA828. Its very well performing dual version OPA2828 is only available in HVSSOP as it is called. That may be my Waterloo 🙂
Please check the thread on OPA828. Its very well performing dual version OPA2828 is only available in HVSSOP as it is called. That may be my Waterloo 🙂
And so is repairing all of the computerized systems in modern motor vehicles. Never have learned that either.
Time to catch up. Point with some devices is whether it is paying off to learn such techniques and everything that comes with it. Car electronics serve a certain purpose that requires a thorough understanding of what is happening with an engine in every given circumstance. Also measures are taken against vibrations. All quite hard to grasp. In practice even technical minded people may choose to just replace the car electronics with a second hand working one.
Replacing a dual opamp then seems an easy job. Well it is.
Replacing a dual opamp then seems an easy job. Well it is.
Although I have used the razor blade technique three times, it is pretty destructive, pulling some pads off the "daughter" PCB and tearing the traces on the main PCB. Is there an easy way to desolder these or otherwise remove them in less destructive fashion? Will a soldering iron and desoldering braid with flux do the trick? I don't have a hot air tool to do the job. Compressed air would blow underneath it but not sure that would have any effect if I can only heat a few pads at a time.
I wonder if just removing the 8-pin chip would solve the problem? It appears to be memory: MX25U6435F 64Mb serial Flash memory. I suppose removing just that would leave everything else running (undesireable result)?
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