Help me choose the right driver (4th order bandpass outdoor)

Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
I would like to build my own garden underground subwoofer in the style of the sononace 12"(LS12ESUB) (4th orde Bandpass).
Subwoofers
I heard it at ISE this year in Amsterdam and I'm impressed!
I have no idea what sub i should use? A car subwoofer or is a marine sub a must?
In my days the brands where Rockford fosgate, JBL, Cerwin Vega, and many more.
What would advice me:
- 12" or 15"?
- What brand/model to fit the use?
- I don't think i have to go very low infrequency maybe 40-45hz?

I will take my existing Rotel wich gives 2x 60w RMS for the satellites and 2 x 150wRMS@8ohms for the sub so DVC is a must.

Thank you
BP5rPHT.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
How big is your garden
what is the furthest place you will listen
what SPL requirements
what are the high frequency speakers?

Designing one of these is nothing terribly hard, you just size the tube for your volume requirements and you make the port large enough in diameter so it sticks out of the ground somewhat. Getting it sealed properly against the elements will be a challenge. You will need some sort of screen on the canopy to keep rodents/insects out.

help for designing bandpass can be found at The Subwoofer DIY Page
 
How big is your garden
what is the furthest place you will listen
what SPL requirements
what are the high frequency speakers?

Designing one of these is nothing terribly hard, you just size the tube for your volume requirements and you make the port large enough in diameter so it sticks out of the ground somewhat. Getting it sealed properly against the elements will be a challenge. You will need some sort of screen on the canopy to keep rodents/insects out.

help for designing bandpass can be found at The Subwoofer DIY Page


With that big a tube compared to the front cavity, it's probably best sim'd in HornResp.

The wire mesh to keep out insects should be located as close to the external end of the tube as possible.

It's an interesting idea for an outdoors underground subwoofer. I like it.
 
Hi,

Thank you for the answers,
I'm not affraid of the build, i'm just not sure about the driver and box design/size
Here is a little drawing of the garden.
The purpose is to play music only (mostly pop, R&B, reggae, lounge)

The max distance is about 10m
max SPL: no idea how to Judge on that.
the high frequency speakers are sonance satelites 8 pieces (specs attached),
6P1vXlD.jpg


BNo9wEf.png


0I6Z4FY.png
 
JL audio 13 W3V3-4
Hypex DS4 plateamp 400 watt rms at 20 hz.

Box 120 liter closed/39 liter vented.
3 vents of 82 cm long 8 cm diameter
VB1 16hz VB2 70 hz.
Airspeed 11 m/s at 20 hz.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF8990.JPG
    DSCF8990.JPG
    134 KB · Views: 308
  • DSCF8986.JPG
    DSCF8986.JPG
    108.6 KB · Views: 205
  • DSCF8985.JPG
    DSCF8985.JPG
    95.7 KB · Views: 182
  • DSCF8973.JPG
    DSCF8973.JPG
    151.8 KB · Views: 191
  • 20072011177.jpg
    20072011177.jpg
    113.2 KB · Views: 195
  • 06082011185.jpg
    06082011185.jpg
    83.6 KB · Views: 66
Hi JPcolin,

The Dayton RSS315HFA-8 and the RSS315HFA-4 look like they should work good for a sealed rear chamber Bandpass. The 8 ohm version will have a bigger enclosure, that should help with getting the port area as large a possible and keep the port length reasonable. You will need to determine the best alignment that works best with your main speakers.

Regards,
Matt

Dayton Audio RSS315HF-4 12" Reference HF Subwoofer 4 Ohm

Dayton Audio RSS315HFA-8 12" Reference HF Subwoofer 8 Ohm

Thanks for the reply,
Ik tried to put the dayton and a JL Audio w3v3 12 in Winisd, but it seems there barely a difference, is this normal?
Also port diameter does not affect the graph...
sAVnWsk.png
 
Hi Jpcolin,

The parameters for the Daytons and the JL are very similar, so the sims will probably look pretty close. The JL subwoofer is a very good choice, but cost much more than the Daytons.
The port area will come into play when the power is increased. All of the output from the subwoofer is coming from the port, so you will need the port area as big as possible. I would use at least a 6 inch diameter port or bigger.

Regards,
Matt
 
Hi Jpcolin,

The parameters for the Daytons and the JL are very similar, so the sims will probably look pretty close. The JL subwoofer is a very good choice, but cost much more than the Daytons.
The port area will come into play when the power is increased. All of the output from the subwoofer is coming from the port, so you will need the port area as big as possible. I would use at least a 6 inch diameter port or bigger.

Regards,
Matt

Thanks for your help, in europe the dayton is about 210€ the JL 279€ not a very big difference, and the 13w3v3-4 (13inch) is the same price.
considering the small difference in price wich one would you recommend?
 
Status
This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.